Washburn

http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l137/Was...nt=100_0275.jpg

I always ran 7-8 psi in my 22s in dirt. 5psi in my 18s. Anymore than that your gonna spin. They should conform to your riding style.

I heard from an outside source that he builds his A-Arms damn strong and they are just as much a quality product as Lonestar or Laeger but he doesnt advetise. This could be true. a good guy to talk to would be the guy at J-H Racing. He has good prices too you just have to call. http://j-hracing.com/

Im no expert but Ive felt and rode on Houser A-Arms and these just seem stronger. Off brand A-Arms on other quads Ive seen were thiner and dident look as strong. The last pair of Laegers I looked at were probably about the same strength but again I cant see them being any stronger. The JB Racing A-Arms might be the only pair of A-Arms out there that I have ever seen that I can say "Might" hold up a tad better due to them being a little beffier but top companys usualy make their arms out of the same stuff. It goes without saying that they are leaps and bounds stronger than any stock a arm on any sport/race ATV ever produced. As soon as you feel these things you can just tell its gonna take more than smacking a tree at low speeds to bend or even dent them. Im gonna take some pictures and try to get them up in the Image section. They look super cool too they have a star in the middle of the welded plate in the arm.

I just got a pair of LSR +2+1 Racing A-Arms silvervein. They wanted like 80 bucks or something for PC and they will be muddy anyway plus they look sweet as hell to me. Plus they are so damn strong. They are well worth the extra 150 some dollars over regular rec A-Arms. I cant believe there strength. Plus the Tie rods are extra strong the hemis are unbelivable. I wouldnt go with another pair!

Did the Amsoil you were useing state it was safe for a wet clutch. Ive heard of this happening to a few other people too but they were using the wrong oil.

Builders just give you ideas and you either go with them or you dont. People change their mind all of the time its your bike just tell him you thought about it and you would rather not port the pistons. He will say OK. You dont have to go into why you dont want to and if you do enlighten him with your thoughts and see what he has to say. If he says he would still do it say not on mine and call him a bitch or something haha J/K you get the point though

155 mains, jesus man Im at about 1800 feet and running 280s and Im still lean. I need to rip open my carbs and figure this out.

I dont know, that sounds really small on the main. How does she run from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle? When you start it do you use the choke? Ide ask everybody else what they are running in theirs or if you have a local shop make friends with the mechanic. Someone will chime in. Future refrence there is a jetting section.

Dude, everytime I see your AV I crack up. "He had blueberrys in his pocket"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-2-i...072472677QQrdZ1 I wouldnt buy it for a dollar

Yeah and clean that jet ski up put your magical touch on making it look good and get rid of that. Screw impressing the sluts. You know YOU KNOW you will have more fun on the Greenie.

Man Chase Im about to scrap my suspention project and pick up the greenie. I always loved that bike. Even though it would be totaly impractical for my needs. Hate to see it go. Put it on ebay and try getting 6500 for it +shipping!

Good seller, super fast delivery, even threw in something extra :thumbsup:

it would work if you dont haave anything else. I bet they would pull harder than stock pipes but bottom end would be a mystery. HotCarl a member on this board is giving away stock pipes for shipping in the for sale section and you can find stock carbs for like 50 bucks.

I wouldnt put in any additive that hasent been proven to work in 2 stroke atv/bike engines. It could end up binding all sorts of shit up. Never have never will. If you dont see it in pro shops and mechanics either dont know if it will work or they tell you they wouldnt use it in their bikes that pretty much sums it up.

First ask them what they checked out. Odds are they will tell you they checked out shit they dident even look at. Then Make them do your carbs over at no cost and recheck what they said they checked. If they think you need a new part while checking it tell them to call you before they charge you for anything. They charge like 11 bucks for a clamp you can get for less than a dollar at your local hardware store. Yamaha dealers usualy just service your carbs by putting new OEM parts in and charging you up the ass for part$$$ and Labor$$$$. If its not starting and bogging in a netural drop (witch is a bad idea to do) you could be sucking in air. What did you take it in for? Just to have the carbs cleaned and jetted?

make sure you have the carb parts on the rite sides. It is possible if you take both carbs off to switch slides and bowls. Its a common mistake. Also make sure your carb slides are synched. You can get almost dead on with a screwdriver and eye but to be sure that your dead on a site sponcer Jeff at F.A.S.T Racing sells a carb synch tool that gets your carbs dead on. Also jetting is hit or miss and it can take a while to cut your time in half do a plug chop. Also from what I hear the FMF Fattys like a fatter Piolet 27.5. Ide get the mains dialed in first unless your having problems from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Try a 260-280 and go down from there. Im not a jetting expert someone will chime in with correct jetting specs and odds are they will be on but if you only read this post take the advise. Go back down to the 3rd clip too.

The regular Elka Rear goes for like 875 MSRP and the new linkage Elka makes is like 500 from them you can probably get it for 300 and it raises your rear to 11.5. That would compliment them Ohlins very well. I looked into Ohlins but decided to go Elka all around. If you really want to go with the Ohlin rear shock you can alway spend like a hundred or so on a used revalved recharged Banshee shock use it untill you save the dough to get the Ohlin recharge and resell for what you bought it for. Thats if you dont bust it again. Ill probably be selling my stock rear shock in a few weeks. I can get it serviced for 35 and sell it to you for whatever they go for. Let me know if your intrested.

What is this suposto be

"if you jump like we do then you need a Honda" Stupid statement. A Banshee can be setup for anything. Thats why I own one. Good luck trying to keep up with a Banshee too! Asshole Im glad you put them in their place. They will feel twice as stupid when they run across a Banshee that is setup for jumping then to top it off crushing them in a drag.

Very cool. Was it a moded class or stock? Link?

Happy Birthday bra Have fun trying to blow out 33 candles in one breath. If you cant just blow them out with your exhaust!

Ide start touching howie rubbing his head go running at him with my tounge out then ask him what I should do (He doesnt shake people hands or touch them). 200,000 with the first suitecase I picked

When your cable snapped it held the plates/slides open and you dident fix that before you put the new one in. Depending on how long you let it rev like that it could of blown a gasket or two but in no way does that justify 200 dollars. Ide go back to the shop and inquire about the list of work/parts they put in for you if you dont already have a detailed slip witch you should. The Clymers Manual has detailed information step by step instructions and pictures of everything involved. Well worth the 20-30 dollars. To save you thousands in the future.PM me if you need one Im picking a few up for sale on thursday or you can go on Ebay Rockymountainatv.com like I said Either way it is detremntal that you own one.