peak-j

Does it rev up at all?

Use the split where the cases separate.

Do you have the TORS removal, if so make sure you don't have your caps to tight on top of the carbs. That can cause the throttle to stick also.

I'm around 1000 ft above sea level, I run 20 cc domes and that came out to be 150psi in each cylinder. I started out with 125psi in each, so I'd say how safe do you want to be, I think I'm borderline cause the highest octane near me is 89 so that's what I run. I haven't had any problems yet, can't hear any detonation and the plug chops look good so I'll keep running. It has been like this for about 6 months and I've ran the hell out of it. Went to Little Sahara for 4 days and never cut it any slack. I'm not sure what 21cc domes would be as far as psi. You might do a compression check and see where you are now. Just my 2 cents. :biggrin:

He might want to do a plug chop to see where he's at.

The jet should never move, does anything look broke or what? Can you post any pics of what is moving. They really should screw in that hard either. I'm guessing something got broke there.

First thing you should do is a compression test since it has a coolhead on it. If you don't know what your compression is you will have a hard time finding out if you need to run higher octane fuel. As far as mix I have ran yamalube 2r or whatever it was, and I recently switched to Klotz supertechniplate. I didn't notice any change except for it doesn't smell like shit. Yamalube smells bad. I'm not saying you should run a certain mix off of smell either!!!! Also you would think he would know what fuel he was running in it, kinda weird. Hope this helps.

Probably got some shit in the carbs, I'd pull off and clean them.

Don't reuse the old gaskets, just go buy new ones. On the gas tank, find someone that can weld plastic, or buy a used one somewhere. Plastic welding works good, I have welded a few tanks out of cars, and it would be cheaper than a new one. That is if anyone around you can weld it. The epoxy would probably end up falling off.

You can get a cheaper sync. tool than that, I paid around $50 for mine from Jeff at F.A.S.T racing. Call him. Also the needles have grooves on them so you can adjust them. You have to take the tops of the carbs and take them apart then you will see the grooves. But you really need a sync. tool. Check everything over really good for leaks and shit like that. Make sure the choke tube is hooked up between carbs.

Just my 2 cents, did you mess with the parking brake shit on the handlebars? Would the engine rev up or just bog right when you hit the gas?

That's what I thought, I would think you'd want it to be set the same at idle otherwise it wouldn't be synchronized.

I run the 20" tires with 13/41 gearing and I like it. In the sand, 2nd gear I leave the guys I ride with setting at the line. I just got new kenda knarlys, and they hook up awesome. Tires still spin, but find a banshee that won't spin down low, unless running slicks maybe. I also ride some trails and I like the lower gearing a lot better. Hope this helps.

I got all the same stuff from Jeff also, worked fine for me. The top screws adjusted out fine and so did the idle. I used the top screws and synchronized it quit a little bit over idle and then used the idle screws to sync. at low idle. I also had to use vise grips to hold the throttle at a higher RPM because it is hard to hold it by hand and adjust at the same time. You want the throttle as steady as possible.

I'm sure we'll be in the south campground, at the very south end close to the corner. Going down wednesday hopefully. I will be the only banshee in the group of about 10-12 4 wheelers. Stop in and look for Josh if you're cruising around.

Who sells the throttle assembly that is both twist and thumb operated? Also where is the best place to buy them. Tired of my fucking thumb hurting like hell. I've tried the extended throttle lever, they blow ass. So I need something that I can use at the dunes for drag racing and the other for trails and shit like that. Thanks for any replies.

Okay, your posts are a little confusing here. What premix oil do you use in your gas, and what oil do you put in the crankcase?

I would recommend using a torque wrench when putting the flywheel back on.

What all mods do you have done to it?

Just checking to see if anyone else will be going down for sandfest. September 14-15 is sandfest. I know I'm ready for it. :smile:

I've only ran the T5's with VForce 3's, and I like the bottom end on it. Very big improvement over stock, and I also run a NOSS coolhead with 20cc domes too.

I'd start by checking to see what jets are in it right now, then you can go from there.

Why do you think it is leaking into the cylinder, and no if you put trans fluid in your case the plugs won't turn red.

What pilots do you have in now? Where are you air screws set at? Did you synchronize the carbs?

Make sure you go by all the torque specs on the head and the reeds. Other than that it is pretty simple.