yea lonestar, modquad, Burgard, Roll Design/IMS
just to name a few. as far as sites im not sure. pretty much any builder can get them, i got mine from a guy that used to be on here but i dont remember his name
Are you sure he will cover it jeff? thats th whole reason i sold my other shearers to get the new ones was he wanted me to pay 150 bucks to have them re-chromed. so in the end it would have cost me more to get the old ones rechromed then to just buy new ones.
the problem with x number of posts is i can get 10k posts in no time if i really wanted to. macro programs will do it all for you. I dought that anyone thats looking to toss there pegs up is going to bother with it but just saying its a possibility
Yes Mr. Trump, I'm here for the interview
Barf
Incase his cell mate forgets
Some peoples kids
Daves neck
Marry Halloween, err wait I mean Happy Christmas, err... Sorry Grandmaw I'm an idiot.
SEXY!!!
Are you kidding me?
Jay is an awsome guy! He helped me cut down my tierods a few months back. And this last friday he came by with cash in hand and bought some race gas that i had been trying to get rid of before it went bad. Standup guy. wouldnt hesitate to do business with him at any point
you just need to use a metal cutting blade on a chpo saw. make sure you cut the right hand side so you can buy a normal tap to clean the threads. I was the retard that cut the left hand side and couldnt get a tap to clean it up.
its always a good idea to have the pistons with the jugs when getting it bored or honed. that way they can set the actual tolerances and not guess them. every 64mm piston is not going ot be the same
i suppose you could. but i wouldnt put a castle nut on there, i'd be putting a locking nut like its supposed to have. then maybe drill the hole far enough back that you can put safter wire or a pin just to keep it from falling off if for any reason it comes loose
i used an angle grinder when i cut my frame. then i smoothed it out as much as i could with the grinder and took some sand paper to the rest. came out fine.
i have it in my sig, but i didnt make it. i found it one day on the net on another forum. but then out of the blue i ened up finding that it is from wikipedia
you dont have to buy a whole new throttle assembly... you can buy just the billet thumb extender. modquad and cascade both have them for like 45 bucks.
what brass plugs are you talking about? the adjuster on top of the carbs? what carbs are you running?
um maybe you have used saftey wire that way but on everything iv seen it used on its simply holding keeping the nut from spinning off. we used to use saftey wire on our go-kart when we raced. the only thing i recall having a cotter pin was the nut on the front and rear wheel hubs. everything else was drilled and had saftey wire
and that design looks like a Ricky Stator setup. those are actually good a arms if infact thats what they are. as far as the nut when i had my set of Ricky Stators (before they got stolen) the nut didnt have anything holding it on either. you should be able to tighten it down and use red loctite, once its locked down it shouldnt move. I ran mine for 2 or 3 years with no issues
like i already said your jetting is off. find out what jets are in there and post what they are. also post the temps and altitude you will be riding at
you can cut 2 coils off the springs ontop of the slides and stretch them back out.
also look into an extended thumb throttle if you dont have one already
this also isnt nessessary. its actually better to breakin the motor running the same mixture for breakin that your going ot be running. You want the metal to have some friction so it will wear together and seat the rings properly.
saftey wiring a nut and using a cotter pin is the exact same thing. both of them are there to keep the nut from backing off the screw stud or what ever it is that its on