Bansh-eman

i never turn mine either they should be fine as long as both side snap into the groove you should be good

no, Jeff (Snop) did a dyno run on them and got .25 more hp with them. unless your running a monster your wasting your money

no it should not move.

it sounds like your plates are fried or you just dont have it adjusted right. all bike will creep a little at high rpm's but your idea of a little and mine might be pretty differant edit: also what oil are you running?

wow that sucks! how do you put a circlip in wrong? thats about as simple as it gets

then you should be good

to be honest your just wasting your money if you paln on buying all billet clutch components. IF you inface need a new inner hub or pressure plate just get a stocker. the billet basket is a must. Also you can buy the FZR1000 clutch your self or go through jeff either way its the same clutch.

use this site to post/host your picks. www.imageshack.us you dont need a membership. just upload your picts, copy the bottom link after its done loading and use the bottons in here to paste the link

not true. Alot of places will not re-chrome used pipes becasue it will contaminate thier tanks, but this doesnt mean they cant be redone. Send bk_banshee a pm on here, he did alot of chrome work for me and his shit is top notch! prices are not cheap but its not cheap chrome by any means

as long a you disconnected the box thats mounted under the tank to the left side (as your sitting on the bike) then those switches wont do anything. You can cut all the caps off or leave them either way its fine. Cuttig them off just makes it look nicer. You should get a TORS removale kit so you can ditch the shit on top of your carbs.

i am a little confused. Did your frame break or did your a arm break?

i run the nology with hotwires. its a nice setup. you just have to make a mount for it becasue it doesnt lineup with the stock mounts location. you will have to cut the wires and assemble them but its easy to do.

i didnt read your whole post but i saw you said your running 20:1 break in. you shouldnt run that much oil. your rings need to actually run your normal premix so they can seat properly to get a nice good seal. if you havent done your break in yet dont use that much oil go back to 32:1 or what ever your running normally. 20:1 is stupid rich

well sort of. they dont have the PV and they use stock componants i.e. reed cages head and what not

look for bent, cracked, or worn metal where any parts touch. also look VERY close to see if there are any hairline cracks.

I'm sure there is some sort of math equation to figure it out but I'm not the guy that would know it. As far as life of the motor. to be honest it's hit or miss. just because you build a motor on long rods doesnt mean t will last longer then a normal rod motor. there are so many factors that there is no ONE correct answer to that question.

the long rod reduces the angle at which the piston and rod are at when the motor fires. this takes take alot of stress off the motor. there is NO power gain from a long rod. it is only a longevity issue

hummm, i have been pondering what it could be. I'm at a loss. What kind of timing did you put on the curves?

Agree

hands down a billet basket is the way to go!!! the twelve thousandths is nothing to worry about as far as having too much slack. but if you can afford to buy a billet basket go that route and be done with it. dont bother with a hinson, you can buy a Magnum and pay like half the price and get just as good of a basket. the oring is only there to cut down the clutch "chatter" if you get an aftermarket basket you dont use the ring

nah, twelve thousandths is nothing to worry about.

the spacer isnt only to take up the extra stroke but to raise the port timings as well. how ever this is the least preferred method in attempting to fix the port timings. having the motor ported for the correct stroke will insure thatyou are able to deliver as much power as possible.

they are 40 over? that means they are only 65mm they got 4 more bores on them (assuming theres no deep damage)

first thing, not sure that milling the basket is a good idea. depending on how much you took off those plates have too much room to move in the basket and can shatter causing alot more problems... second thing, you will not always get your clutch to adjust correctly by the clymers manual. Mine i just have to set everything up and put the pressure plate on without the springs and screwws. turn the adjuster in until i feel it hit the rod/ball, then back it out 1/4 turn. I cant use the arrows at all for referance. so dont live off those arrows. Sometime you just have to know your clutch and how it likes to be set

toss it out and get a new crank. If you dont plan on doing a stroker you can get a "used" oem for really cheap thats in good condition. Alot of guys will buy a new bike and open the motor to stroke it without even running the oem crank.