Bansh-eman

fox or eklas are the most expensive, but this does not mean they are the best. if your not racing or doing something competitive there really is not reason to spend 2k on shocks that will do the same thing as a set of cheaper works or axis or peps

like they are saying use the bolt type puller. dab a tiny amount of grease on the threads and where th bolt touches the crank. hit it with an impact and it will pop right off

you adjust it the exact same way you do the stock adjuster. the only differance is the bearing will allow it to spin so the ball and rod dont weld together.

well when he comes down here, he is always asking about the pirate hookers with wieners. I tell you that guy has issues, But at least he isnt ashamed of what he's into I guess

male strippers with weiners right?

the copper washers go on top of the head below the nuts. put some RTV on the studs before you put the nuts on to make sure it seals all the way

your rings should have a certian amount of "gap" from one end to the other when they are compressed in the cylinder. depending on what kinf of piston and what size bore you have will determine what the gap needs to be. if its too small you can weld the ends of the rings together causeing big problems. if its too smal you just use a file and take tiny amounts off until its is gapped properly

hey man you can use the oem rubber one on there, just go to the dealer and get one. i didnt use the paper one when i got my cascade cover.

they will NOT seal 100% against the cage when your holding them. Dont worry once they are in te motor they will work.

change your name!!!! i saw the post and was like WTF i didnt post anything there

it depends on what your needs are. The Lonestar arms are overpriced you are only paying for the name. Same thing for the Elkas, but i have not seen a single after market shock that isnt better then the 450 setup. I am not a fan at all of the 450 setup. some guys love it. It's more of a poormans fix. It really depends on what kind of riding and how hardcore your going to be going to depend on what setup you need. If your just a weekend warrior and make a few trips per year there is no need to drop 2 grand on a set of quad rate elkas and lonestar arms when you can get a set of Wicked arms and Works shocks for much less and make a night and day differance.

i dont know man... i might have you bet on this one for sure! ask Dave

i guess i have been lucky, i havent had any problems with avg or avast. its caught alot of junk being downloaded with torrents

hey dave u ever used avast?

I'm in a different state then my bike so i cant go measure it for you but I doubt you tweaked it that much if at all. hitting the bolt while the rear end is still in tact would take a shit load to bind it u and bend it.

sounds like either a grooved basket, or the fibers are toasted.

would it shift fine in all the other gears? creeping forward is usually the clutch needs o be adjusted, but there could be more with it not going into selected gears.

yup, I am a total perfetctionist! so when the guy says show polished I expected just that. So i wasnt too happy to see them not "show" quality by any means, but as far ass them fitting they where fine. I had ALOT of extra bolts, and like said the rear shock bolts have threads that go under the mount. Also use the thread lube like said, it is a must to keep the bolt from galling and gettiing jacked up. if i had to buy another kit handsdown it would be the fasstnerguys

i personally would not run pump but i know there are several guys that do. it's ultimately up to you

well i am going to look foward to seeing you become more active and start answering the same old questions every morning. cause after a few years of answering the same questions that are only 10 or so posts apart it getting really fucking old. So i will start sending them to you then if your so willing

wow either i'm a tool shed or that more options botton is pretty ew, cause there used to be only one i think

at 145-155 i start running 50/50, but thats just me. anything more i run race gas

it isnt just a banshee engine thing,its all motors. its the fact that the lower octane fuels will experiance pre-ignition (detonation) with the higher compression. The fuel just cant take that much pressure and will ignite before the motor is ready for it to. There is no 100% you must run this fuel at this compression its more or less a saftey thing. some guys will run pump all the way to 160 psi and be fine, how ever people like myself would rather spend a few extra bucks and get a better fuel and have the peace of mine that my motor isnt going to go pop in the middle of the dunes.

there are generally 2 differant size domes, small bore and big bore. depending on what size motor your running the dome size will deffer. the absolute last leg of the stock jug is 100 over which puts it at 66.5 how ever it is running on very little wall at that point. i want to say that the smallbore domes are 66mm across but I'm not 100% if thats correct. Your best bet would be to send dlnoss a pm on here, he could tell you every thing you could possibly need to know being head makes coolheads and domes for a living

the only way your going to know 100% if you can run it or not is to do a compression test with the domes in, there are so many factors you can not rely on what others have done, they can only get you a ballpark idea.