Bansh-eman

the zerk is the fitting that your pumping grease into. it should unscrew from the arm. in the center of it there is a small ball bearing that keep the grease from coming out. make sure that the bearing moves inside the zerk. you should see grease come out from around the seals once the arm is full. also if you have old grease in the arms it is possible that it is hard and isnt letting the fresh grease into the arms

yup when you put it on all of it goes behind the pressure plate. then you ut the locknut on the out side of the plate.

take the zerk off and make sure that the ball bearing move freely in there.

i disagree 100%. It doesnt matter if you rebuild motors once a week or once a year. A compression tester is a must have for anyone running any motor.

you can plug them but i would just sell the whole thing and get a new intake with a built in cross over and be done with it

Tate, Stock around sea lvl is arounf 125-135

list all mods, temp, altitude, and what carbs your running

my cub has 185 psi. i also run the Dyna but i havent programmed it either. I just run it on curve 3 ( most advanced ) and +4 on the plate

if pulling the choke helps your pilot jet is too small.

it will normnally take 10-15 kicks before the needle stops moving. at 70psi your motor shouldnt be running, and diffenatly not runing well. either you did the comp test wrong or your gauge is wrong would be my guess

dont bother with jet kits. buy the jets you need. With stock carbs, airbox lid off and pipes around sea level your going to need around a 310 main, 27.5 pilot, needle 3rd or 4th clip.

if you dont need a spark arresstor get rid of the stock scilencers and get some to from DG. The stockers are very restrictive. Hell you might even look and see if DG offers Spark Arressters for theres if you need them.

any low to mid ranged pipe. PT Mids are nice pipes

Fatty's are for sure a cheap upgrade but your not going to get as much of a power gain as T-5's T-5 are a good all around pipe. Also if you dont ever plan on getting port work the T-6 are not a bad choice as well, how ever the T-5 will respnd better to portwork if you ever get any done

i would just replace the 2 if in fact they need it. if they just have the surface rust on them i wouldnt try cleaning them up. your just going to expose the metal, unless you plan on sealing it. Also if you run antifreeze it can be very hard on metals. try switching to engine ice or watter wetter if thats the case.

is there a reason you want to replace them? if its because you have some buildup on them that looks like rust i wouldnt bother. your chancing that you snap a stud off and make alot more work for your self to replace something that doesnt need to be replaced. now if the stud is damaged or something then i would do just that stud and not all of them

this isnt exactly true. there are a ton of factors to determine how much fuel the motor is going to use at WOT. Like if you put my Cub WOT against a stock port with pipes I would garanty you i would suck my bowl dry and blow the motor regaurdless of how well its jetted. the jetting will not make a differance how fast the bowl can fill up, they simply allow x amount of fuel into the carb body/motor at a given point of throttle

Cristal and I are thinking about maybe making the trip if i get my bike back together. I got some Q's for you I'ma hit you up in a pm scuba steve

i run mine down the right side ( sitting on the bike ) of the frme and have some heat tape on the cover to keep the wires from melting

no changes it bolts right up. i got my hinson 8 plate setup... about year and a half to 2 years ago.

the first part for the longer bolt is correct, but the finger part is not. I run both of them and they are fine. I ordered several extra of the set screws if you need one.

post picts and location for everyone to see please

i'll send you a pm.

you can buy my bike. i want to get rid of it and get a MX 450

check TAG they might have something that will bolt to the top of the stocker. also look at ebay there was a used +1 stem with anti vibe for sale