Bansh-eman

any reason you dont want to get weisco pro lights?

theres no wau your crank is bent if you dont feel it viberating... the slightest bend in your crank will have a shitload of viberation! you would notice something was wrong if that was the case.

if its bogging it could be your carbs gummed up your fule lines gummed up or jetting wrong for alt/temp. air leak theres many things it could be...

with your sig you dnt have much motor work done to the bike id go bigger then 18cc all your going to do is have to run higher octane and your obviosly not too concerned about racing or you would have more motor work done... smaller dome will up youur compression and give a lil bit more power but imo not enough to force you run run high octane everytime you go ou to ride. just my .02

a stock bike should have around 120 or so .... yours is a bit low if your only hitting 100? you kept kicking it hard ass hell until the gauge stopped moving right ?

get a hotrod... they come welded and theres no need to reweld it, its fine the way it comes. some will disagree but your not running a 10mil cub and thorwing out 100 hp so your about 90% safe of not seperateing your crank.

well you could get a set of Boysen RAD valves or a set of VF3's they are bolt on and would make your bike run better.... although new VF3 arent cheap... iv got a used RAD valve with about 3 months on it riding every 2nd or 3rd week end for those 3 months... ill sell it for 70 shipped.

no , thats trueing a crank to make sure it isnt out of balance... welding it is to make the crank stronger so it does not seperate.

not true if you unplug the box without removing the wires from the throttle and the carbs your in for a world of pain when you try to go out riding...

how will it weaken the boots? the boost bottle from prodesign is held by 2 bolts on the manifold so there isnt really any wieght bearing on the boots.

the yakky is a stock cam, only differance is the bearing on the end of the cam that is posed to make it shift smoother... i know for a fact that you will feel more of a differance with the star before you will feel a differance with the yakky .

well it depend if there is any pad left. if not then your hitting metal on metal and thats your grinding.. also if you ride in alot of mud you might have gotten shit behind the pads and thats dragging the rotor. just spin the wheel with the bike off the ground and watch the disk if its not moving then its fine... take the caliper off and pull the two bolt that hold the pads on and check the pads.

it would be possible to separate the case without taking the jugs off but its pointless. the jugs are simple to replace. just take those off casue when you go to putting the half back together it makes it much ezer to seal the case halfs. when you put the new shift cam in you got to make sure you line the shift forks back up or you wont shift right. if you dont have a clymers get one it will walk you through step by step.

as you spin the wheels you will see the disk wooble side to side if it is bent.... your pads are more then likley done.

to remove the shift cam... you have to split the cases dont you? the shitf forks wont let the cam come out if im not mistaken.

WORD! oust beaners :baseball_bat: lol oh and flatbillers too :baseball_w00t:

i could be mistaken but isnt a 1 tooth differance on the fonrt the same as 4 on the rear? if so then 15:44 is worthless. but like i said i might be wrong cant member

stock stroke is 54mm and stock bore is 64 mm

as far as you gettig new ones and replaing them your self good luck you have to have them pressed onto the crank. so either way your going to have to take it to a builder and have the old ones pulled and new ones put on. that assuming you dont have the setup in your house or work at a shop that dose this sort of thing.

the other part of the T is an open hose to vent both the rear and clutch cover tubes... it routes over the top of the motor and hangs.

Who went on the 19th? and how was it? drop some picts and vids so those of us not able to attend can check it out

you that deal right there is a BADASS price... that crank alone cost that at most places!

with your mods running race gas will hurt you more then helping... you simply do not have the compression to run it. you will be able to get off running 91-97 oct with no problems. also there is no need to buy motul.... your spending extra money for a name... just run Yamalube R2 if you ask around lots of peeps run it including myself , its a very good and inexpensive oil. youd be suprised how many shee owners run it.

i live by, Expect the worst, hope for the best! better to be safe with 20-30 bucks in oil and gasket then several hundred in clutch or gears.

no you dont HAVE to but its a very good idea if its not done... cranks are notoriouse for splitting.