Bansh-eman

us www.imageshack.us to post picts... they will host them for free and then you copy the link and post it using the insert pict botton on the bar above and your good..

id say take them to any tier shop and have them pop them on with the machine but if you really want to do it your self get a set of the tire irons and some dish soap... put it on the bead of the tire and wheel and a lil man stregth and youll get the first bead over.. its the second one that willbe the bitch!

id go with FAST , Jeff is great to deal with and has a very good rep!

yea 20:1 is really rich in oil you should be at 28:1 - 32:1

i called electro tech... they will do basic color for like 175 and custom coors for 265 ... anyone had any experiance with them?

ill be doing my frame... then i need to find someone that chromes to do all my extras...

bump bump

remove the caps from your carbs... pull the spring back and unhook the cable from the slider... pull the cable out of the top of the cap... then remove the cable from your throttle pull the old cable out and pout new one in... just do it in reverse order.

anyone know of a place that does a good job and has good prices in San Diego.. and plz god no one say albas lol. they charge like 500 bucks to send it the the coater next door to ecc and those guys only charge 300 if u bring it in.. just thought to ask also... if your going to glamis out the 8 wheres a good place to stop for water so i dont have to drag out 200 gallons with me and waste a shitload of gas...

the 35 pwks run well with gas right? im not looking to go alchy anytime...

well man i hate to burst your bubble but we need more info... your altitude and temp are the biggest factors on what jets your going to need to run.

ill have to take a pict of it next time i got to my buddies house ... i traced the wires and it has a harness that plugs in like the tors or the ebrake thing ... i was wondering if it will still start with that unpluged...

hey my shee has the key overriden on it but the guy i got it from still had the wires and the rubber thing zip tied to the bike near the bars.. if i unplug the key will it still start? im trying to clean up the look some and eliminate some of the extra wires and shit ....

did you open the case or remove the clutch at any time or did it just start happening?

it makes quite a bit of differance... for every 1mm of bore its approx 11cc's so your looking at 22 cc's bigger ... vice the 6.5 cc' per mm of stroke. but thats not exact numbers its a round about.

word.. how ever your not going to get the max potential out of that baby if your not going to stroke it... is there any specific reason why you dont want to stroke it?

bump

thnx rust

like i was talking to dajogejr about until i win the lotto im not going to go buckwild on it casue i injoy dumping and riding mor then just drag.. so i dont feel like the maintnance of a drag bike right now... costs too much... id rather have a bike that i can go smoke some bitches on and still have fun riding with the boys too..

i think it was shane but not possitve

anyone know if the guy Shane that does shocks is still active?

i also have got the 400 strocker from alba... now as far as them working on my bike i didnt have that i rebuilt it my self... its pretty ez.. but it dosent matter where you get your parts from when your doing it your self so i wasnt worried what ppl said about them really casue they werent working on my motor and they give military discount so i was all about it... a hotrod crank is a hotrod crank no matter who you get it from just make sure you have a reputable building doing your motor if you dont plan on doing it your self...

theres no point of showing the temp after its been cooled if your using it to determine your motor over heating then putting it after your radiator is pointless

word... mine was still right on so i didnt have to adjust mine... so if your is off i cant help you there

how much for frame?