Bansh-eman

you mean to adjust the clutch?

LOL thanks

sorry no bolts

it will start with the botton messed up right? if so it wont casue it to run funny it just wont shut it off. im still willing to bet you that the needle is bent i did that along time ago and i had the same prob... buddy of mine wasnt payying attention and dropped the needle in the carb and it hit the side of the jet and when he went to push the slide in it bent the needle...

kk ... you really cant get it on the shift cam worng cause its slotted ... just shift down to first and half shift to nuet and the roller should be sitting in that notch...

whats the best way to strip that baby to polish it up?

yes its boysen reeds and the rad vavle cages

lol im all about the bling i just cant afford it right now one of these day its on

yea thats going to be my next project is stripping soem shit down and polishing them up... how often you got to re polish aluminum to keep it nice ? riding mostly in sand

i showed wesw my swinger he said i got a normal setup swinger that runs the linkage.... thanks dajogejr lonestar kinda miss represented the swinger i was under the interp that you didnt need it... now i got a dark grey swinger with that gay silver linkage

ok cool ill have to see if its linkless or not casue lone star claims its ready to go... good thing i asked befor i sent the shock out and had it revauvled to get it redone again... as far as the spring goes you dont have to go stiffer if you have the shock revauvled for the + length do you?

im betting on the bent needle i had that same problem...

i got a +4 lone star swinger and i noticed on all the picts everyone has the brace under the arm like in the pict here of this guys banshee on here... the axle i got said its ready to be used but it doesnt have anything like that... do you have to remove that from your stock swinger and put it on the new one or what?

i want to say we had the gears lined up wrong casue i took the whole motor apart... once we slowed down and lined everything up right it all worked fine... you should be good just try the things we said befor and try it out... dont waste time putting on your clutch til you get it to shift casue your going to be taking it off and on until its right

if you got it apart ask herr to mic it and get some new wiesco to match...

Boysen RAD Valve with Near New Reeds..... $60 Stock Reed Cages...$10 Stock Head.....$25 Stock Carbs and air box boots no TORS cables or caps ....$35 Jets: 280, 290 2 sets, 300, 310, and new Alba Needles...sold Stock manifold no crossover tube...$15 Stock Swinger (Needs To be Cleaned and New Bearings)...$30 Heel Guards or foot rest plates 1 and 2 as the oem parts finder calls it.... $50 Pro Design Boost Bottle...$20 New Scott Grips...$10 Billet Pro Flow AirFilter Adaptor...$40 ModQuad Front Chain Slider...$15 Motion Pro CR PRO Twist Throttle Assembly...$20 All Items are Plus Shipping

eye balling it will get them close.. id say get your self a sync tool that thing gets it RIGHT on without a dought .... Contact Jeff at F.A.S.T. he sells them he can hook you up...

no you can start it off in any gear as long as the shift forks are in correctly and in your case they are because you did ever remove them... with no oil in the case and what not could be the reason its not moving much i know once i got mine put back together and oil in the case it was much ezer

that hoes coming from the cover is a vent into your clutch cover... as far as why it had pressure to shoot out oil im not sure man... maybe your crank seals arnt seated all the way? or maybe your bond around the case halfs is leaking but like i said im not sure man iv never had that problem

agreed how ever he said he dosent ride in water so he will be ok as far as the jetting it all depends on altitude, mods of bike, heat ... theres alot of factors... checkout the jetting forum and at the top there is 3 posts that are pinned so they never go away one of them explains in details how to get your jetting...

i agree with parts of this .. as far as the porting goes you would see a major gain how ever your going to spend much more to get that done not only that you have to take the jugs out and send them off if you cant do it your self and wait for them to come back... on a stock bike or nealry stock i should say, the noss head with domes is not needed.. that motor isnt putting out that much hp ... now if you went down and dirty and stroked it and what not then yes its a must but not a stock bike... either way if you go pipes and pods do them together like he said so you dont have to rejet both times.. same goes for the reeds u might want to get all 3 if your going to get them ... some times you need to rejet for the reeds other times you are good just moving the clip ... when i put my new reeds i saw a great deal of improvment on my stock bike.. or almost stock at the time...

ok i know what your talking about now... i had the same problem with mine... ill have to think what was the cause of it and get back to you.. i do know it was very ez to fix but i cant remeber right now off the top of my head... is your clutch already off so you could replace that shifting mech?

that redicoulse.. a k&n with outer wear will stop more then enough dirt or anything else for that matter ... yes no filter is 100%, and yes you WILL have to clean pods ALOT more frequently then with a air box but the performance youll gain over the air box is enough to can that thing and go to pods...

cool man i just got through doing mine as well... as far as you know has the bottom end ever been rebuilt? if not you might look into that , being the age of your bike...cost a pretty penny and alot more time to do it but youll learn ALOT about your bike by the time your done.. if your bottom end is good take off your jugs ( cylinders ) and have them cleanedup... if they are good then all you will need to do is have them honed... if they have scratches or anything your going to need to bore them over... also look at getting them ported if they are not done already... there are many types of porting for many types of riding... its all user prefferance.. after your jugs are done have the guys mic them and tell you the size of the bore... that will determine what piston size you need. any shop or reputable builder can tell you what size to get per the mic of your jugs... and get your self a clymers manual it is good to have around when your learning... it will take you step by step... youl also need a feeler gauge you can get one at sears for like 10 bucks... depending on your bore size will depend on how much gap you need. it will tell you in the papers with your pistons how to determine.. mine was .009 to .012 so i went .011 and you will set your ring gaps to that after that pop the rings on and connect them to the rods... making sure you have them with the arrows facing the exhaust ports then slide the jugs over the pistons and bolt down and toruqe down... there are many mods you can addd while your motor is apart but it all depends on how much money you can afford... ppl will tell you cool heads and strokers and clutches and so on and so on but if you cant afford it or just really dont need it for your type of riding dont waste your money... if you are the least bit mechanically inclined DO IT YOUR SELF!!! youll save a lot and learn alot.. that clymers will walk you through it step by step... if you got any questions drop me a pm and ill be glad to help you out... i just got through rebuilding mine a few weeks ago...

anyone got NEW black plastics or know where i can get some for a good price?