Bansh-eman

lol that blows i just threw my old stator out from my 2000 banshee cause i crushed one of the magnets trying to remove it without using the right tools.

yea if im understanding you right ... the star fell off ? if not your still correct in what you are sdaying... the shift cam spins as you shift so that why your clymers is showing the star in a differant postion the star can only go on one way casue tis slotted.. if im not answering your question try taking some picts and point out what it is your trying to ask... if your case hasnt been split then your shift forks are in the right spot and its just your star that your replacing? once you get your star back on make sure you got the shifting mech in and put your shift lever back on and shift it back up to 1st and go through all your gears and make sure they will all go in... if so you should be good..just be sure you clean any metal out of your clutch befor you start riding again... some say you can spary brake cleaner in it and then youll be okj but i dont like doing that id rather take 15 more min and do it right by taking the clutch apart and seperating the plates and making sure that way...

well depending on how much your looking to spend... you hit the nail on the head ,get new pipes and silencers , a new k&n and outerwear , pop the lid off the air box.. rejet it... get a tors override and get rid of that thing...get your self some new reed cages and reeds... VF3 if you want to spend that much... if not get some RAD vavles they arent as good as the VF3 but they are much better then stock...the list can go on and on... its all how much money your wallet will let you get..

yea thats what i figured that 120 would have a few too many...

jetting for now... i can always figure out once it starts getting colder... but i need to beable to start from something ... what pipes would you suggest? im not going to get rockets cause im not using this bike for purely draging.

bump... a buddy of mine was told to try 155 mains 52 pilot and needle on 3rd or 4th clip and 2 turns out... anyone know if that sounds about right? he was told that by alba but last time i went with thier jetting it was all jacked up so im not sure i want to listen to them again...

the bore is larger then stock ... if i remember correctly stock is 64mm as far as the crank, rods , and piston im trying to look them up but not having much luck... ill see if i cant find something...

as far as the tors and filters and what not that wont hurt it to break it in with those... you can shange them right off the get go... but the ratio for break in needs to have more oil then normal so you get everything nice and lubricated while its being broken in... i ran mine VERY high i want to say like 16:1 but i went a lil over bored.. and my pipes had alot of oil build up after the 3rd session was done... just be sure to run it at idle for 3 20 min sessions and let it cool ALL THE WAY down before you run it again. after that you should be good

anyone know off hand how many links you need to run with stock gears on a +4 swinger? i want to say stock is 108 so you should be able to get away with 120 or less and not need to get custom links cut but i cant remember...

if you run a aftermarket cdi on stock curve there was no point in getting it... my point being was that if you select any curve OTHER then stock it will advance you timing electronically and then you run the chance of over advanceing if you have your timing already advanced... if you plan on staying stock curve dont spend your money on a new cdi its a waste.. get other mods bigger carbs or Vf3 or something, all depending on your mods which would do more for you

the part of the star with the "slot" in it is nuetral or how ever u spell it... yours is just in a differant gear then the clymers is as long as your gears are in the case correctly and the same for the shift forks youll be ok... just make shur you can shift to all your gears... mine wouldnt shift at first either... just have the wheels spinning slowly and it should go... shouldnt be as bad once you get oil in there.

i dont think id like to trust my new clutch and motor to loctite. i was thinking of maybe taking them down to the tip of the threads then adding a dab of jb weld and letting it sit... that should hold up and not be broke down with the trans oil on it right? oh and by the way hinson still hasnt sent me jack $hit back yet and its been 4 days now... shows how much they take care of thier customers.

if you get a new cdi wether it be dyna or moore you cant run advanced timing because the curves will do it electronically for you and you run the chance of over advancing .

the shift star is slotted so it can only go on the shift cam one way... as far as it not moving try spinning the wheels and shifting it it might be hanging up ... if you had a differant question try to explian it better your post is all kinda jummbled together.

i wish i knew i ws hoping to get more input on this but im guessing not many people have delt with this... im not sure how much metal you can take off the nipples befor you cause a leak.. i sent hinson a email about it but of course they havent sent shit back they got thier money they could careless.

i want to say the castle nuts are like 27mm but not possitve... as far as the lock nutz go i know they are bigger then 46mm i bought the wrenches for them that are "universal" and they arnt by anymeans universal anything... they were no where close....

Bump.... anyone else had this problem? i emailed hinson asking why there isnt any notice of this when sold... kinda shity that this happens on a 800 dollar clutch.... now that its grinded some of the nipples off i dont really know how much more i can take off before the case leaks

it was a new seal in there already but it was bound up so of course it tore it when taking it out so i put a second new seal in there and used some assembly grease to make it slide in ezer, then used the old seal to tap it all the way in... i got a modquad impeller

hey guy i wanted to know if anyone else has got a lone star swinger on there bike? i got a +4 and i cant get the brake caliper to mount back on cause its hitting the top of the bearing housing... either im retarded or i need some other part... let me know if you have the same proble and know how to fix it...

ok i got a brand new Hinson 8 Plate and installed it ... i broke my motor in and pulled the side cover off to fix my impeller bearing and i noticed metal shavings in the oil. after taking a closer look i noticed the pressure plate had been hitting something so i looked in the cover and its the three nipples inside the cover... has anyone had this problem before and what do i need to do to fix it?

ok well i fixed this... i had to buy a new seal and pop to the old one out and use some assembly grease to get it all the way in... so it was keeping the bearing from seating all the way in..

so what you do just disconnect the parking brake and the ignition botton and its fine?

im changing my impeller out but i didnt pay any attention befor i poped the bearing out of it.... the bearing seems to be sitting outside of the carrier just a little bit... is it posed to be flush or is this ok?

so if i unplug it from its harness it wont mess anything up?

ok on the clutch lever theres the parking brake and underneath that there is the botton for the ignition? what do you have to do to override that botton? i got a ez pull perch and lever from jeff at fast but it dosent have a spot to connect the parking brake peice and the little botton on it. if you need me to get a few picts of it let me know ill be checking backl ever hour or so while im over here working on it...