Bansh-eman

Boysen RAD Valve with Near New Reeds..... $60 Stock Reed Cages

jetting ?

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you wont hurt it but your not going to get the same gain from it asyou would with porting bigger carbs and every other mod you can put into it... are you running small bore now and plan on going big bore ?

nor i thats why it was hard to not laugh about it, we where pissed at first becasue we had to load up and go somewhere else to ride but after it happened we couldnt help but make jokes of it.

ok so this morning me and Polish are out at Glamis and we get a suprise visit from the Imp Sherrifs while im trying to help these two kids that got thier truck stuck in the sand. the popo is hassling Polish bout his sticker not being visable and not having our permit in the dash board...so then he gets out of the truck and pulls out his danky little stick and puts it in the exhaust to check for a spark arrester... well we obviously we dont have them and he told him if he caught him riding then he was going to get 3 tickets for a total of 600 bucks. well the popo was being a dick about not having to spark arrester and was like if your bike was to throw a spark you could catch this tree on fire... now i know my bike has never thrown a spark from the exhaust and the same for Polish or anyone else iv ridin with... has anyone ever had sparks comeout of their exhaust? we where talking and wanted to email myth busters to get them to do it and see...we had a bitchin fire going the night before right under the tree that he said will cautch fire and nothing happend even with a fire under it much less a spark. just seems like a stupid ass reason for the police to fuck with people and ruin their weekend.

using tiedowns and bending the metal will make a weak spot in the all ready weak banshee frame... the welds arent exactly the strongest by any means. you always want to heat metal when bending it to keep from having that weak spot. of coarse tabs to hold plastics and shit dont matter but something like your chassis youd be a fool to shortcut it!

im not 100% but if you have too much of a gap that would just casue you to lose spark because your not pulling as much of a current of the stator. shouldnt make you detonate... thats a matter of your fuel combusting too soon and if your losing spark that would be the opposite.

dont forget VF3 ...

like quoted 2 of the ball joints are left handed to make ez adjustments. the nutz to lock them down are as well.

yea i was thinking to heat them up after i sand the ruff out .... any others?

hey what are you guys using to smooth out the cuts on your plastics?

well 107 and 109 sound way low... my 4mil with 22cc domes is getting 145 and 141..... 66mm isnt stoke, stock bore is 64mm i have 4mil and run 22 domes... runs fine, what type of riding you do? if your not racig alot then id stick with the 22's if you go higher then your going to have to run higher octane. you should be able to get away with 104 octane maybe a little lower ... now that assuming you get your compressio backup like it should be.

yea if you have a way to hold the plate still and longate the mountng holes and then mark the degrees on your plate... thats all the after market ones are theres not anything special about them.

i havent got a chance to run y new dyna yet.. im going out columbus weekend to mexico to ride it for the frist time on the new cdi

you can go to dynas website and it explains the timing for each curve... when you advance the timing you gain more top end and when you retard the timing you gain more bottom end.

32:1 is normal but some run 36:1 iv even heard of peeps going to 40:1

first off why use the stocker with a spacer? use your cool head and get your domes cut. and you can get a hotrod crank for like 500 bucks new pistons and rings for 120 or so. then youll have to pay to have the domes cut for the stroke. but you can get a storker for 2 grand if you got the other crap already

if you have coolant leaking into your case it could be your impeller seal your head gaskets or the base gasket for your jugs. when you say clutch arm are you talking about the lever on the top of the casue under the leftside carb?

its not a bad idea to buy a bearing remover kit they cost like 50 bucks but hey are great. and work for most sizes

the shift pro makes the shifting smoother .... it sounds like in your case you need to re-adjust the clutch. open your clutch cover up and the adjuster screw right in the middle of the pressure plate is where your going to make your adjustments.. get your self a clymers and it will tell you step by step how to do it.

your crayz the rear is what takes all the abuse from the power of the motor and absorbes most of the weight when you jump or hit something... when you spend all that money to redo a motor and then defeat the purpose of it by leavng a shitty shock on there youve just wasted time and money. for sure get the rear done then go front.

your talking about 2 differant things... any crank you get besides a twisted crank pretty much should be RE-welded... now if you asking which is better a hotrod or a welded stocker? then id say hotrod. it all depends on wha your looking for and what motor mods you plan on having.

Item is Damn near brand new! i used it 2 times before we sold my wifes xterra and now have no need for them.. no scratches dents discoloration or anyother damage. they are Yakima and are 140.00 at the Nissian Dealer ship.

you need to rejet for it, you now have a shitload of more3 air coming into your motor then what you had before. once you rejet it you will see a HUGE differance from your box being on. its your mains for sure. and you might have to change your pilots.