DVS1

sold...

Thanks bro! TTT!

Took the shee out to Glamis for Turkey day and had a blast. Going to be busy and wont be riding. Lowering the price to make a sweet deal. $3700 obo.

Ok, its not a hillshooter... its a trail bike! Bump!

2006 Banshee, titled and reg in Az. Customized powdercoated lightened frame and harness Stock bore and stroke Drag ported by Kenz Trued and welded Weisco pistons Cool head 175psi each cylinder Billet intakes w/ 38mm PJs and K&N pods w/ outerwears Chrome out frame CPI small bore pipes Stock trans new clutch w/ HD springs Rewound Stator lightened flywheel w/ billet adjustable timing plate at +4 Oversized HD radiator by Torch Works Chrome anti-vibe stem +2+1 ishock front arms with F8 ishocks +4 square tube ext swinger Lonestar ext axle Full bore plastics painted gloss black Douglas blue lables w/ haulers and Kendas. Dirt tires on stock rims. Some more small things on the bike, but that should be a close list of the major stuff. No front brakes. Was said to make 74hp on Kenz dyno. The drag port hits hard, but I was still able to dune it even with no front brakes. I have a shit ton of reciepts. Pics don't show, but I also just put on a 3 piece billet flamed stator cover. I've only had it out to Glamis for one 3 day trip and it pulled Olds nicely. Really didn't want to get rid of it but I'm building a 5 seat LT rail with a LS1. $4500 obo

I was so close to picking this up, but I held out. Looks like he has another Super Cub 10mm on ebay. I'm so tempted, but I've heard Super Cubs were not the way to go. Regardless, looks like a nice motor. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220630428239&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Thanks, replied...

TTT I could come down on the banshee a bit, probably not on the Raptor as I'm already taking a big loss. I'll "entertain" offers though :cool:

As far as comparing the Raptor to the Shee, the suspension is completely aftermarket on the Raptor so the ride and handling is just way more bitchin than the Shee. As far as power, I thought my piped banshee was fast until I got on the raptor. It flat out RUNS, not walks, away from the banshee. The power band is really broad on the raptor, lots of torque. If your in too high of a gear, most times just give it the throttle and it will pick up, where as the shee you probably already know that you need to be in the Rs to really take off. I don't know, I really like both bikes for their pros/cons. As far as the chrome goes, when I stripped both bikes to coat the frames, I just took some pieces to a local chroming shop. Small pieces like pegs and mounts are pretty cheap, its when you do A-arms, swingers, sub-frames, etc when the price can go up. Thanks again fellas...

thanks, I've always been into 2 strokes and the raptor was only supposed to be a clean up and flip type bike, but I couldn't stop. I'm still reluctant to sell the Banshee because I've had it so long and am attached to it, the Raptor I want to get rid of BEFORE I get too attached to it. hahaha Seriously though, I'm stepping up to a big daddy long travel sandrail and need the money and space. A couple more pix.

I just built the Raptor. Its an 03 Limited Edition, but fully customized now. Its only been to Glamis for Thanksgiving since complete build up and breaking in the motor, literally only bombed the hill maybe 8-10 times and flew down the drags 3-4 times. It whoops anything stock and I was walking an Athena Big Bore and cammed YZF450 up Olds hill no problem. Beside straight up drag bikes, I didn't get out ran. Lots of time and money invested, but I'll just highlight some things that I can think of off the top of my head. 102mm 11:1 Wiesco to make 686cc with matching cometic gasket set Stage 2 hot cam with double springs +1 Kibblewhite Valves Port/polish, intake port matched, serdi valve job and assembly by KenzCycleTech GYTR HD clutch LRD full exhaust Proflow w/ K&N no lid Trailtech billet Torch lights Clear tube mod and jetting that runs pretty good. Marvin Shaw Coilovers anodized blue with chrome springs +2 +1 Chromoly ASR A-Arms and tie rods (Chrome plated) +6 Chromoly ACE Fabrication swinger with billet round house RAD double row carrier. (Chrome Plated) +4 Lonestar Axcaliber axle & LSR locknut(Chrome Plated) Powder coated frame and misc small parts candy blue over metallic. (Sparkles in sunlight) Lots of polished aluminum. There is a few more little things but I think they're shown in the pictures. I'll explain if someone is interested. No problems with the bike at all and I was very happy with it out in the dunes. Price is with a full set of new dirt tires on ITPs and the rear paddles on douglas rims. You couldn't duplicate this for what I'm asking and I'm taking a loss. Also for sale is an 01 Banshee. Toomey T5 Piped, DJ jetted dual K&N pods, tors eliminated, billet impeller, advanced timing plate, lightened flywheel, but stock motor. 3 year old hinson clutch with no issues. Still had 123psi compression last time I rode it and the top end has never been apart. Powdercoated black frame, complete flamed billet package, polished clutch cover, and some chrome. Full set of dirt and sand rims/tires for it. Asking $10k for both. I have over $9k in the Raptor alone. I will sell both bikes separately $3500 for the Banshee and $7000 for the Raptor. Chandler, Az email me at ibadvs1@hotmail.com

It took me over 2 hrs cycling the break lever to finally build pressure. I had the master cap off, kept fluid damn near full, and every cycle of the lever would cause a tiny bubble to come up out of the line and slowly the fluid level would go down. I mean a tiny ass bubble too, but I just kept cycling and eventually no more bubbles and the lever built pressure. I just had to keep going well beyond the point of "this is fucking bullshit".

After I installed a lightened flywheel, I forgot to check pick-up coil gap and had a very similiar situation. Closed the gap down and ran fine. G/L

Check this out. I went to go back to 0 deg. and found the coil pick up gapped pretty far from the bump on the flywheel. Also pulled the flywheel again to make sure it was on the key straight. It was and is now too. I'm not using a degree key. Tell me if you think being this far away may have caused some of what I was experiencing. I have it set now to about .025-.030 gap. It's as close as I could get it. pick is before the fix btw

put the castle nut back on upside down about flush with the ball joint threads, then use a 2x4 over the nut and smack it with a hammer. The nut will protect the threads and give a bigger surface area to hit. Don't go crazy, but it should drop out of there.