Bansh-eman

the bolt patterns are the same but i dont think the hubs are the same...

i some what agree but some of this isnt fully correct. its kinda half of what needs to be said. pipes will deffinatly give you top end power... porting only will not do much if you dont have pipes to match it... you can open one side up ( intake or exhaust) but if the other is choking the motor your defeating the purpose. i have never heard rockets being nearly the top end pipe that shearers pump out

yes mikes having the designs workedup right now... we havent got a price yet casue everything hasbt been figured out yet. give him a shout with some ideas and see what he says

i wouldnt go this far... i ride the living dog shit out of my bike... hillclimbing drag racing duning you name it. same with Dajogejr, Locogato, Firehead, Bigred Polish and many many more. you can safly run without the bottle. if your overheating you got isses somewhere else rather then not having that bottle... either your impeller isnt working your you need to try flushing your motor out csue you got alot of sludg built u p inside there casue a stock radiator with some engin ice or watter wetter cools mor then enough. unless your riding tight trails where your not getting much wind to go through your radiator to cool it off you hould not have cooling issues.if you do you need to be checking the system over to find the problem

watch it he could be lieing... they might have shown up yesterday... dude always tells me it will be there next tuseday (on weds) thats same friday its at my door.... your such a lier jeff!!! :biggrin:

where does that mount? use the rear tank bolts? its a good idea but id just stick with stuffing plugs and registration under my seat and tossing a rag on them...

i just bolt mine on... theres really no issue if it comes loose or lets dirt behind it... there is a seal on that shaft... id just tighten it down but if you want to loctite it use blue so its not a bitch to get off...

hardware store... you can get studs and nuts that fit them for probly 4 or 5 bucks... mke sure yo dont get the china made shit... get the grade 8

those grooves look pretty bad... although i disagree with blowit ... i will say your chancing it takin off that much... from your first post i was assuming your baskets was barley nicked... and filing it would have been fine... if you cant afford a billet try to get someones stock they got laying around...

smaller domes might squeeze a few hp but nothing thats worth it imo... for the cost of the fuel your going to have to run id stick with premium unless you get a heavly modded motor and then you need to run race gas... smaller domes will help your revs quicker... so you can launch out of the hole a little better..but 6 or 7 bucks a gallon to launch a small amount better... not worth it in my book unless your racing and not just riding for fun..

I haven

you dont need it... like said above... can it and run the line down your frame to the ground...

the 535 dynodon thread???

humm i dont reacall if it matches the carrier or not... i know the hubs have the same bolt pattern but as far as the splines and everything else being the same i dont recall off the top of my head... if i was to guess i would say no probly not... cause if they did it would seem they would be marketed as banshee/yfz axles or more guys would have these on thier bikes... but i could be wrong...

any chance you can snap a pict of it so we can see how much its actually grooved? chances are you can smooth the edges out some and it will be fine... id have to disagree with keith on the filing... there are multipul contact surfaces for the multipul plates to touch so the few thousanths differance ( refferance is pulled out of my ass it could obviously be more) on each "finger" shouldnt really effect it...

you can leak at more then those palces... head, base gasket, crank seals and the surfaces you said... hell if you split the cses and didnt seal them well you could potentaily have a leak there although its pretty unlikley

ok two problems with this statement... are you referring to(boring to .50) as the max bore size to stock jugs? if so this is incorrect... you can go double that...stock jugs can be taken out comfortably to 80 over... but they can handle 100 over being the very last stand on the sleeves...anything more and the metal is too thin.... know the statement that 20,21,22 domes u can run premium is too generalized of a statement... in most cases yes those can safely be ran... but without knowing his mods , squish , temps, altitude....and a few more factors you cant really say that those are fine... and you can certainly run smaller domes 18cc on a stock motor .... only draw back is that you will need to run race gas and it would be VERY smart to have your crank welded if its not already... size of domes isn

lol your loving the clinically retarded statments now hu ? :biggrin:

yes they are full shit, its not pc... every factory bike is dipped in a big ass bucket of paint just liek cars... they are built on an assembly line... my wifes 07 yfz450 is the same way... hitting small rocks and what not will wear right through it and expose the metal... see if you cant find someone in your area with pc done and take a look at it you will notice that it is layed on very thick.... everyone i know with pc rides in sand rocks dirt mud bushes you name it... not a single problem with it becasue its so strong...

not sure about the duracoat... the rhino lining is heavy but works for sure... as far as pc coming off your arms.. who ever told you that is freakin high... pc is one of the best ways to coat a frame that will last for a very very long time... pc is thick and doesnt chip crack or scratch like paint does... if you want something without gloss they have many differant flat colors they can do and not put a clear over them...talk to kaotic sp? he works at a shop that dose all that he would be your best source

well im not sure what type of setup you have or what type of riding you have... but either way it you end up needing to go back to T-5's you should have no problems finding someone to trade with... Shearers are a full top end pipe... so if your doing trail riding of any sort or your not on the pipe 90% of the time you ride your Shearers really arnt going to help you much...

it will be awhile for the bike to come back together... im waiting on my motor to get back so can do some clearance issues before i send my parts to chrome.. then im having my plastics redone and my seat too...it will be awhile... ill send u a pm about the carb parts

nology makes a stronger spark... but stock works fine... i know of plenty of guys that run stock on fullblown alky drag bikes

the fasternguys look good... they dont look ike the china shit... only compiant i had was i was under the impression that they would be more shiney... i havent started putting my bike back together yet though so i cant say 100% that they are good or not... u might ask dave and see how his went....

ok lets do this... try removing the key alltogether... to do this trace the 4 wires from the key down to the plug under your plastics... unplug it and cut the bottom plug ... it has two wires... splice those two wires together and seal them off with some liquid tape ... you can get it at walmart... im not a fan of wrapping electrical tape casue when it gets hot it tends to lossen up and come off.. now as far as your kill switch goes... there is only two wires... you have a black wire with white on it that goes into your cdi... your kill switch has the same... plug those together...then your switch should also have a ground... depending on what switch your running it could be any color ... mines green. im using a cr250 kill switch... ground it out and you should be good...