Bansh-eman

yea i was kinda wondering.. that seems to really interfer with the integrity of the swinger...

it kinda sux, they are so common that they dont hold value for shit... and your not willing to ship so you limit it to people only close to you

thats a pretty fat dent in the left side of the swinger.... what happened there?

word ...

i got a used proflow adaptor ill sell you send pm if interested

wow i have never seen someone running a sproket that bad lol.... is that rear an aluminum? if so its probly not going to last long... i ripped the teeth off my aluminum sprokets. i go steel only now.

stick with pwk, if your riding tranks you dont want to go too big... 33 should be ok... you go too big and your not going to have uch bottom end... also you dont want to go too big with the exhaust you got as well.. id say some 33's should do well

Hotrods cranks are fine. re weld them and throw a maxload on the PTO side ....by far the best bang for your buck... once you start getting into the big monsters start looking to twister crankworks... for a stock to 10mil they are over kill

6200? humm that place is a fuki rip... they are selling them in san diego for like 4800-5200

if you look at the stock unit... it has the copper pads as connectors... it does the same thing but by touching to connectors to the corresponding wire... so the yellow and blue wire from the lights go on one side of yout switch... then the power (yellow /red wire goes on the other... the harness has the ground for all your lights... so you flip the switch and power goes from your yellow/red through your switch and toyour head nad tail lights.. its pretty ez onc you do it and see it ... but trying to read it and figure it out is a little more difficult

unless your running in a hard dirt track or racing where you might bump into other riders .. you dont need bead locks... we ran them on our open wheeled race cars becasue you slide through the corners... most recreational riders will never put the stress on a bead to have it seperate from the rim... id say save your money and bu something else..

its a llittle bit differant then that... your lights will need the black and yellow for high beams.. for your switch you run the yellow and blue to one side. thats head lights and tail light... cant forget tail light and then there is a yellow with red stripe. this is your constant auxillery power... that goes to the other side of the switch. once you open your harness it will be more clear.

you know what i have never actualy hear of any one doing it.. my assumption is no. the sensors will be thrown off and will engauge the TORS. but im sure there is a work around for it.. any reason you want to keep TORS?

Hey Lance, its awsome that your offering discounts to BHQ members. issue though is when a company posts parts for sale, they need to talk to site owner first. contact Lee and get his approval. Like other site sponsors please contribute to site site by paying for advertisement. Its only fair.

also most builders you get cubs from clean them up before they sell them any how....

thats a very nice looking setup... before i clicked the link i was going to requimend an Extreme Megalite but i dont think they make 5th wheels. one quick thing...our trailer was about 250 bucks a month and it was like 25k so your payment are going to be 500 at least... how much bah you get and do you plan on staying in? cause they put these on 15 year loans. so if you get out now you have a truck payment and a 500 dollar trailer... or then again you can pay more with the bah if you have it, just a thought... i know in san diego i get 1650 dollars for bah...

i will assume your putting in a new crank and everything... you can get a seal kit for all the seals for the crank, tranny, impeller, kicker ,shift shaft, youll need new clutch cover seal base gasket and gead gaskets, youll need some yamabond for the case halfs. a torque wrench clutch holding tool and flywheel holding tool. there might be more but thats what i remember off the top of my head...

lol funny thing is ... he isnt kidding

call jeff, he has some fairly cheap billet intakes that dont have a cross over to fit those carbs, with my pj's i had to go like 5 turns for it to idle... just barley crack the throttle just enough to keep the motor running, start turning the chooke once it starts to pickup start backing off one clikc at a time... you got to wait a few secs for it to level off.. it isnt instant. as for changing your pilot go one size at a time... they make pretty big changes for each size...

ditto

one thing i noticed when reading you said your jugs are 30 over right? you also said that your pistons are 513M06500...that is for a normal rod crank and 65mm bore.. the issue i see is 30 over is 64.75 not 65.... so are you possitive you have that combo? unless that was a mistake i dont see those jugs hitting 160 psi... im guessing you got something confused and they are actually matched up proplery but it stuck out to me when reading the thread..

Accepted, i do understand it is easyer to ask how ever there are about 5 topics that are covered time and time again... and for us its ezer to ask you (or who ever it is with the question) to use the search because we know its out there in many posts. and like Animalman said do a search get a much info as you can then if you dont get answers covered then make a post to ask... :biggrin:

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

what about suspension , reeds, carbs , ignition , clutch, swinger... im assuming they are all stock? maybe 2800-3k depending on where you live...

each piston manufacutre is a little differant but wiesco should be around the same... i dont remember the math but if there is a change its probly... .012-.014 but without doing the math i cant say for sure... converting 65mm to inches is 2.54 i bleive