Bansh-eman

i have a little differant take on the fly wheel... for trails and mx you can use the weight to keep the R's up on those hard breaking corners. although yes it will rev faster it also falls off faster as well...

not sure where u live but in most states it is illegal of a police officer to run a vin and give you any info ...

FAST 1 (785) 364-5325

very good to hear.. these new companies are really making sure to take care of thier customers!

MUHAHAHA

you wouldnt have to change aything for those lights... they replace the stock ones just like trail techs... the recitifier is something im not experianced with so i cant explain how it works or any of that.. i just know you need it when doing the conversion and running those monster lights becasue i have read it probly 50 times in differant posts... if your really set on getting them talk to the guys i said in the first post.. just be warned i have heard WAYYYYY more negitive things about doing the conversion then i have possitive.. but its all hear say... and i havent tried nor will i so i cant say from experiance that it isnt safe i can just say what i have heard...

ok im no electrican so take this with a grain of salt and reshearch more before you jump into it... running hellas you need to do the dc conversion i belive. also with the 200 watt stator you dont need to upgrade your regulator for normal light slike trail tech and what not but becsue your going with the hella you got to put in whats called a recitifier... talk to wesw and blowit they have pretty good knowlegde of this... they can pretty much get you headed in the right direction to get these hooked up and working properly.. also wallrat i think has done it but not sure if he is around anymore..

LOL yea those are just rumor hahahah still waitin for them picts mark

running that ring gap on that bore size is a waste of compression. it is perfectly safe to run .010 to .012 gap running .018 and .020 is way over kill. your to the point where it can effect the performance of the motor.

and another one bites the dust... have fun figureing shit out on your own.. casue your not getting advice from me any more...

yes you need to run it... the regulator is for the lights only.. thats why you keep popping them

with out installing them on your pistons.. slide them into your cylinders.. then use the top of the piston to push them down a little bit to insure they are flat.... with a feeler gauge...(Click here) you messur how big the gap is... per inch of bore you need a certain amount of gap to insure you dont weld the two ends together and fry your motor. when you buy new pistons they come with a peice of paper that should tell you how to do the math... stock 64mm bore you need .010-.012 gap...

please do some shearching....this has been covered a thosand times....

im still waiting on those pict of the carbs mark.... :yelrotflmao:

lol i know.. i was just taking a stab at you lol... no pun intended... and im sure he isnt a new member... he just made a second login...

absolutly... most after market swingers take banshee axles and calipers.... im not sure who to contact to setup a wholesale with... maybe contack gary at quicksand... or cascade.. jst start calling shops and see if they will give you some insite...

call jeff at FAST or cascade... they carry them those arnt items that most people get rid of...

:sad: :sad: i guess i dont mean much either then

looks like a good product... keep in mind when someone buys a swinger alot of times they have a carrier already so they dont want to have to get a differant honda style one... you might find a pattern for a banshee that doesnt need honda shit... good luck getting it going... 180 is a killer deal!

ditto... same jetting with my PJ's when i had them... CEL 4th clip.. at glamis

RMATV is going to be pretty much th same price as anywhere else.. bearings arnt cheap... if you can reuse them then do it... theres no reason to can them just becsue...

i think you did a compression test first... when you take out your spark plug and thread the gauge in the head and kick it over your testing the static compression... a leak down test you remove the pipes... plug both exhaust ports... have both spark plugs installed... have the reeds and manifold on the motor... where your carbs normally bolt up you want one plug with the pressure gauge on one side and then the other plug with the pump on the other... pump the motor to 6lbs and watch it fr 6 mins... if it stays then your good if not do like the first guys said... click on the RNBrad link in my sig to see the make your own leakdown tester

i think he is reffering to just a topic tag.... which doesnt solve anything it jut lets everyon know which furom it goes in .... 90% of the time you can tell by the name of it... i say just use this one for anything not specific to the forums you have already... there is a forum to cover most anything... trying to seperate the two isnt really accomplishing anything...

its possible... if you say theres no metal in the oil then that would be my next guess..

Brandon, i hate how you always quote the person above you... sometimes its hard to understand who your talking to. Just my .02