Bansh-eman

I need a stock tank cover...let me know what you go... id like blue but any color works

anything below 1000 is generally sea level... 20 to 30 you should be ok... it would be wise to do a compression test once you cut it to make sure...

depending on your altitude... 20 to 30 thousanths....

when he kicks it ... does it try to roll forward?

stealership

lol you fukin people are rediculose! trying to low ball for 10 bucks... ok im done

a race is 80% rider, 20% setup... and of the 20% setup its 75% suspension and gearing and 25% motor... theres more to winning a race then slapping big parts in a motor id stick with whats been proven time and time again.. dont fix whats not broke. Edit: also a 4 mil produces about 7% more power ovr stock. so the extra 1mm of stroke your looking at half a percent... whats the price of this 5mil? also a side note to make sure we are all on the same page... your talking about a 5mil stroker and not a 5mil long rod correct? those are two differant things.

id be willing to bet his forks are fine... look at the star and make your the little thing on the end of your shift shaft is catching the post on the star... if they are then start looking into other options... cracking the cases becasue of this is kinda dumb... start from the outside and work in...

thats a joke between me and him...

the end part.. with the spring...

no you do "need" it , some will argue that it balances the pressure between the carbs and blah blah blah... there has been no proof of it. many big name drag racing teams run billet intakes that eliminate them all together.. the intake i have has built in....

my parents are from newton/kirbyville area.... im in san diego though...

nope just the regular shit... check oil and coolant levels before you take off... grab some extra plugs and jets... and tire pressure... should be ok.... you live in the states?

the yamabond goes on all metal surfaces that touch... so around the outside edge and all the flat parts in the middle.. it dries farly fast but not in 5 min... just get it on ther without taking forever but dont rush it and get a half ass job either... you have enough time to put a good clean coat on both halfs and put them together... and yes the metl springs face away from the crank on the seals...

you wont catch me running pump at 160... let me know how it works out for you... id rather spend the extra few bucks and have the peace of mind...

well i know i dont have pict with items iv bought ( as of now :biggrin: ) you will notice a bigger gain on a moderately modded bike over a heavily modded bike for sure... i had carbs pipes stroker reeds and intake on my bike... i could not beat my bubby for the life of me... i swiched the curve to the most advanced and i was toe to toe. i love mine. ill never run a stocker again... but there arte without a dought more mods that will give you better power gains then the dyna will...

if you have the tors removed... you might think abpout cutting your harness and getting rid of all the extra bullshit... i removed my harness got rid of everything extra... hardwired my new killswitch, relocated my lights to under my seat removed the key and relocated all my cdi and regulator to behind the radiator and infront of the tank. no worries about wires hitting pipes and melting now...

if you folow the 4 wires down.. you remove the plug then splice the two wires together and that bypasses your key... then you use your start stop switch to kill it... or you can even get rid of that and use a dirtbike botton kill switch like i did... and then move the lights to a toggle switch under your frame and that really cleans up your bars... my bike is stripped right now or id snap a pict for you but imagine... sitting on the bike from left to right it would be.... Grip / Clutch Lever / Round killbotton bout size of dime / clamp / Brake rez / Throttle / Grip

i have one Dajogejr has one and firehead have one and i know of many other on hear that do.... I swear by mine! i will NEVER run anything else. and if you get the money later on you can throw her on the dyno and program some custom curves... you cant beat that... check out ebay... you can gt them for like 250 bucks... Edit: oh also what do you have done to your bike now? the dynas are very nice but if your running a stock bike for the mst part the moneymight be better spent else where first...

you should be able to stay the same... the differance in OOF to Inframe isnt a big differance start with where you re now and do a chop...

do you plan on changing tire very often? i dont see it happening much... if not then stick with normal rims and take them to like discount tire and have them swap them out fopr a few buks

ny reason you didnt bypass it completly?

works are very nice... i have some tripple rates with remote rezzes... as long as you get them valved for your wieght and riding you will LOVE them

you can get the hand tools. or do it the ez way find a tire shop throw it on the hydrolic tire remover and pop it right off... is there any reason you want the bead locks? just looks? cause its pretty hard to bust a bead when riding... we used them on our Midget open wheeled race cars.. but they are pushing Very high HP and then they slide in the corners and bump each other... i dont really see you meeding them just doing some casual riding and having fun...

its probly not grounded right... that would be my guess.