burleybanshee

I had a 2002 KTM 250SX, I put a Doma pipe on after trashing the stock one. Doma was recommended by Langston's father who was selling them. He said it was the best pipe for the ktm at the time. It was a good mid pipe for mx racing. Never knew they made one for the banshee. All the parts they made were fairly high quality.

If those are fireballs a-arms, they are one of their first prototypes. They have not manufactured anything like that. There was some of their ex-employees who were making some at home and selling them at some races and other events. So they might be a copied or knock off of fireball which is why they look close. Fireball use to be in SoCal. Roger moved the business up to Prather outside of Fresno, and unless you know him or one of his employees, he will not sell to general public.

I think the point to 50K busa bike should be you are going to drop a lot of money trying to create a new creature. DSSA, if you are really in the industry, then you know that it is not as easy as you make it out to sound. I know they went form a 6 speed tranny to a four speed tranny and finally to a 3 speed tranny. They had so much power it would just eat up the gears, They ended up with three speeds filling the same space as 6 trying to strengthin it. The real cost is in R & D and replacing all the broken parts that didn't work and they had to modify or come up with something else. The went trough 3 axles, two of which were very expensive titanium. They also have a stack of tires that they purchased trying to find the right diameter, paddle hieghts, and number of paddles. They offered to let me ride it and I told them they could shove it up there ass to, I like myself to much to jump on that beast. They ran it up the dirt drive and tim got on it half throttle and it was amazing. It completely laid over all the paddles and ripped a few off. When that quad tranny was right and everything was dialed in, nothing, repeat nothing could touch that quad. Problem was, it only ran well a couple of times and they could not get the tires to hook up, Tim was never fully in the throttle on his runs. The bike would do much better on pavement. The bike was made to say they had the fastest bike, plain and simple. It wasn't for a customer. Roger sold it for a big loss. The new owners are probably still working out the bugs of the tranny and reprogramming the fuel system to come on slower. If Fireball was to build another one, which I highly doubt, the second turbobusa quad would be less to build because they have already worked out a lot of the bugs. Point being, if you want to spend the money and time to see if it will work then go for it. Let us know how it goes.

My 4mil is ported stock cylinders. The bike is heavy with the a-aarms shocks, swinger, anti vibe, ect. I'm a 230 pound rider and I have 15-41 gearing. I run the 21X12X8 8 paddle haulers. Unless its a down hill start I have to drop it in 1st. But once I get rolling the tires allow me to go through the rpm's quickly and the gears. I have a lot of top end with these tires and gearing. Depends on what type riding you do. Friends with same motor have more paddles and take me out of the hole, but I pull them and pass'em by fourth gear, espically on shooting some big hills. Also depends if you are setting up drag or dune bike or combo. Less side wall allows for easier sliding the ass end but you sacrafice top end so find a balance if you are doing both.

keep your front stock tires, espically if you have that hard packed sand.

the 21X12X8 8 paddles are a great tire. keep your stock front tires, they will work just fine until you have that extra cash laying around, you will want to spend it on other things, like reeds, timing plate, having you stock head cut or buying noss/cool head to up comp. a little.

Those are still good paddles even with a trail port. Nine paddles are almost to much on that diameter tire for a stock motor and a 15tooth gear. Great out of hole but doesn't let the motor spin up once at speed. The porting will help it pull the paddles you have. Probably best alround play dune tire. If you want to drag more and less sliding the ass end easily on dune faces, then you want to step up more to a 21 or 22 tire on 8" rim, better straight line but the tire shape is more round on top and not flat like the 21X10X10 so they don't like to slide like the old dune sliders, which is the same profile of what you have now. Above is the case for heavier sand ie, coarser sand, or sand with a lot of moisture like pismo. The fine fluff powder sand you can run more paddles.

I had 30mm oko's on mine for a while. Great carb for fairly stock bike. You should be good with the 48 pilot, and 145 main should be good as well. I would go one above the 145 main and see first, then go down if your rich. Went with a 4mil and needed a bigger carb so they are sitting on a shelf now. Great and easy carb, you will notice a gain over stock carbs and much easier to dial in and run.

I ran with the 21X12X8 and love them. Like you said, happy medium. I air the tires up a little more when running bowls and carving side hills. I air them down when hill shooting. Great tire, that would be my recommendation. I had 20X10X10 9paddle extremes, great for bowls, sucked for dragging they are now on the wife's raptor.

Ran a tusk in mine with the springs. Love it, I abuse it and it doing great. IF you do run the springs, run all of them. The pull is not bad and the tusk springs are not as heeavy as barnetts or other brands. Those I would run half and half, but run all the tusks, and it will be same pull as half and half of another brand. For the price you can't beat it.

I'd go with the Trinity's. Good pipe for trailing and double duty on dunes. Not the best for trails or dunes, but a good compromise to do both. Plus You don't have the rust issues with the trinitys like cpi or toomeys out in the salt air of pismo. Stay clear of shears for trail riding. A lot also depends on what mods your quad has and what porting.

33pwk's max for that bike. I like the 30mm oko/28mm pwk's, good carbs flow a lot more and easy to adjust. You don't want to over carb it. Your pipes and ports i think would like a smaller carb. If you were running shears or cpi with drag porting i would say the 33's. Just my 2 cents

I don't know about running on ice, my thinking is you will hookup quite a bit from pictures i've seen of ice tires with those nasty looking screws in them. I know mine with relatively same engine in dunes with paddles still wheelies with a +4. You can still ride a plus 4 around it takes little more throttle control and weight shifting to get the ass end around like a stock length, but it is do-able. Had a +6 on, big difference, lost a lot of all round riding, bigger pain in the ass. +2 to +4.

Xsinnerx, you go ahead and keep the t6's after porting and a stock port t5 with reeds,air filter, and timing plate with a good rider will go by you. Had t5's went to t6's and it fell on its face with port work. Two other friends had there t5 and ports, switched to t6 and could not run at any rpm. Its not 2 or 3 horse power, everyone that has experienced will tell you. Just fyi. T6 is a great pipe, but not for good port work. If you only do a cleanup job than ya stay with t6's

Mine did the same thing, but it was when I had the fuel turned off and i was idling it trying to run the fuel out of the carb. It started to pick up rpm's, I hit the kill switch and it kept on revving to the moon. Put in gear, held break and killed it after it was 10-12k rpm's. Will not make that mistake again. I run pwk's so it was not stuck throttle or tors bs, just leaned out and basically dieseled itself. but at 10k rpms

The last picture you posted looks like a spacer plate, bbut with the quality of picture hard to tell. The plate would have to be around 2mil thickness, need to measure. if not you just got long rods with out the stroker crank, and different pistons, which really gains you nothing in power.

Yea, i looks like you have a spacer plate, so you got a 4mil. The plate will not be very thick seeing as how the piston only comes up 2mil higher. Plus you have the thickness of a second gasket down there as well to raise the jugs. If you want to make power, take off the jugs and send them out to be ported for the 4mil and lose that plate. You will also need to have your head relieved for the pistons. BUt the bike with a port job will be night and day difference if you have someone like F.A.S.T. or Herr open her up. Also need bigger carbs when you have it ported. Then hang on, might want to put a +4 swinger on as well, depends on the porting and type of riding you want to do. Good luck, have fun.

Awesome, glad to here your keeping that beautiful machine. Hope to see you riding it out at pismo soon.

ON a dynojet dyno and after switching to 35's, I made 69 hp and it is a conservative dyno, an I trust those numbers. I went to another shop that opened up and they are a motorcycle shop that wanted to try quads on their dyno. Got 75 horse from their dyno, but I trust the 69 power reading. You are around 70 range. I would trust a f.a.s.t. port and I would look at putting in a new clutch, the tusks are cheap enough to see if thats your problem, which it sounds like it might be. I would not recommend 10 paddle, I tryed it on mine, great out of the whole but it pulls the motor down on top end runs. If you are looking for 3-5 gear pulls/racing others I would recommend 8 paddle. Plus I can drop it in 2nd gear with my 230 pound fat ass and still pull. The 10 paddles bogged to much for 2nd gear start. If I was 140 pounds it would be a different story.

Man Steve, I hate to see you part out that quad. I is real fast and clean, You built her right. Personally I love love to see her still running in the sand whole even if some else was running her. If you do part it out I would be interested in the plastic and seat. I understand where you are coming from, we are in the same boat and looking at trying to find a rhino. Therre was one on craigs list here in fresno. Had fulbore plastics, ostrig leather seats front and back, full cage roll bar, five point seat belts, long travel 6" suspension with elkas, dune tires and the person selling had a 16,000. price tag. Great deal, just could not come up with the money. Look around for some used ones, the 08 fuel injected 700 rhinos are coming out soon and everyone will want the latest and greatest and dump their current rhinos.

I'm running basically the same set up as you did with the 4mil. I had the 30mm oko with 155 main and a 52 pilot, t5's at 400 foot elevation. I was running the bowls dry on the 30's and switched to 35's. Did not notice a loss of power at all in the low end and gained on top. Running k&n pods with boss style intake manifold, +4 timing. Running 158 main with a 55 pilot, cel needle middle clip. No bog, crisp excel through out. On sand with +4 swinger the front end does come up but is controllable. I could not ride it and enjoy the power with a stock length swinger. Night and day difference from stock port and stroke bike that I had before. I bet if you found someone with banshee that had pipes jet and filters like yours used to be, you would walk away from the quad. Question? Did you put a new clutch in the quad? Did you change your gearing?

I basically built the motor you are talking about. Night and day difference. I would recommend it for a "all-around quad". I run t5 pipes with a dune port to match the pipes and 4mil/5mil long rod. I have 35 pwk's. I was running 30mm oko and i did fine with them, but i make a little more power with the 35's. I didn't lose any low end that i noticed switching from 30 to 35mm carbs. With the t5 pipes, it pulls right out of the hole all the way up top. You can never feel it hit the pipe, nice smooth hard pull all the way through. It made it very rideable in dirt, trails, open fileds, sand, pavement. I love it. Could make more power if a ran a drag port and shears but then i lose a lot of versatility. If you can get a hold of a rz, then you can have more of the best of both worlds, but it can come close with the direction you are going in.

I run a Noss head and have no problems with it. More of a pain to bolt on, but if you do it right you should have no problems. Not sure about the cool head. I have seen the one piece head, i like it as well, less o-rings, same enlarged area for more coolant. As to the race gas need. At 140 right now you could just run straight 93 octane and be just fine. The 160-165 range is where you need start getting into the 50-50 range, depending on your timing advance. I'm at 165 psi, no pinging on straight 91 octane, but i run 110/91 50/50 mix at 40-1 927 oil just for a piece of mind. Get above 175 now you are in the 100% race gas area depending on the motor. Do you have a good compression tester and holding throttle wide open when you are kicking it over & over & over??? Was the motor cold or hot? You are already running a shaved head and only have 140, more than likely do to the drag porting heights on the exhaust. I would say throw 19's in and see, should put you real close to the 165 mark.

$400.00??? LOL, man that was a good one. If it was only 400 to do a 4 mil, everyone would be doing it. I think it is worth it, but its going to cost a lot more than that. 7% is about right, but the real gain is the increase in torque that I felt. Pulls harder down low though mine is not set up for straight drags and i'm only running t5's. It's worth doing if you can afford it.

To you should be right on with 155 main, but i would put in a 55 pilot and see. You are running stock jugs with a 4 mil and those pipes it might require a richer pilot than a cubby would. I know i have a 4mil stock jugs with t5 and had 30mm pwk and need a 55 pilot. I am at 400 foot elevation and tuned it on the sniffer on the dyno and it was 80 degrees, low humidity.