burleybanshee

NO! my plugs were dripping when i pulled them out a couple of days ago. They told me they wanted it real rich for the breakin and we would play with the jetting after a couple of rides were in on the bike. So the horse power i'm sure will come up quite a bit. I just ordered some skat track 21x12x8 haulers 8 paddles. I hope this gets me back in the ball park. I ride mostly pismo, 225 pounds, +4 swinger with the 4mil/5mil rod hot rods crank, dune port, 165 psi noss head, +2+1 a arms, elkas, 15/41 gearing, new tusk clutch plates & springs. I know I put more weight on the bike with the swinger, a arms, anti vibe steering stem, elkas, noss head, billet 2 piece intake. I know i gained more power and speed than the weight I put on and it is more fun to ride, but not set up for dragging, thats for sure.

Thanks everyone for input. Just got back from Pismo. It ran nice. Power in the entire band. Didn't feel like it hit the pipe though. It just pulled off the line till 9000 then fell as it approached 10,000rpms. just a guess on rpms. The t5 are nice, and match the 30mm pwk's. I think if i put some cpi's with 35pwk's it would wake it up some more. I have a +4 swinger with +2+1 front arms. Hope that helps with the bikes geometry questions. I think the bike has 190 degree exhaust timing, 33 degree blow down, not sure what the other number is, like 134, something like that. I was there when Larry ported the jugs. He spend 8 hours on the porting table and took his time getting it right. Did a nice job. The pipes and carbs are holding back the engine. I am running 15/41 gearing. I also weigh 225 pounds, slowing me down a little bit. Out at pismo, didn't have problems with 4-pokes. Didn't drag real hard, still babying the new engine. Nice having new clutch again as well. When dragging, would hit 6th, it would start to stumble. It was rich at 1000 feet, I know it was even richer at sea level. Going to go down to 162 jet and run it. I will go back and put it back on the dyno and run her on the sniffer and maybe drop one more to a 160 then see what the numbers say.

Just got my 4mil together, running great! On the dyno at the rear wheels it measured 58.4 horse power. Little low but I'm running only 30mm knock off carbs and t5 with the 4 mil and dune porting. Wanted all a round power, not just top end light switch type. I have +4 swinger and +2 +1 front a arms. I have new sand stars for the front at twice used haulers for the rear. My engine builder told me my haulers were to much paddle. They are 20x10x10 9 paddle extremes. Is this to much paddle? I know that the 21 and 22's are better for drag/hill shooting and also an 8" rim. I like dragging but do it about 20% of time, the rest is sliding and playing around bowls, general duning. I liked the 10" rim cause kept the top of tire flat and it liked to slide with out rolling up on the side walls. With that said should I have gotten 8 paddles or a 21" tire with 10 rim and 9 paddles? What would be the best tire for my application

Tired of my t5's rusting as i look at them, espically going to pismo all the time. Plan on getting them jet coated. They coat the inside with 2000 degree enamel, the outside a little less temp enamel. You can get them almost looking like chrome. I have heard it will help retain heat and help scavange the cylinders better? Is this true, any down sides to jet coating the pipes?

Ran it yesterday to break in a little before dyno. Man I like the new power. We ran it on a DynoJet dyno. At the rear wheels in 4th gear it made 58.4 horse power on 91 octane pump gas. Had to raise the needle to top setting, other than it was dead on for break in. After I get back from pismo going to drop from 165 jet to 162, should be perfect. Wanted to run a little rich on top for the break in weekend. IS the sniffer on the dyno a good way to check the jetting?

Last night shee came alive! I drank a beer to that.. She went from stock with t5, vf2, kn and jetted to: Aggresive dune port, 4mil stroke/5mil long rod hot rods crank, wiseco 795's .20 over, still t5's, fireballs billet intake. Nice intake, i like the fact that the cross over tube built in, no more boost bottle with less chance of air leaks. vf2 still there, flipped the reeds around, running 30mm oko's. I know they are a little small for set up, but I bought them before i knew i was going to a 4mil setup. Still impressed by them for the price. need to get k&n pods, okied the old cut away air box to fit for the dyno run later today. Can't fit the old air box face in due to the thickness of the new manifold and 30mm carbs. +4 timing advance. The Noss head is awesome. Compression kicked 190 both cylinders after cutting them for the 4mil. Started with 20cc domescut .130 out dome clearance, got .70 clearance between dome and piston, I know it is more than we wanted but it still had 190. Took domes out and recut again, this time up in the middle of dome to regain our squish angles, got 165 each cylinder now. The Noss head was easy to install, no leaks, very impressed, looks great too, thanks Dave! We put 55 pilot and 165 mains in the carb, filled them up, and she fired right up. Forgot what its like to kick over a new motor. Nice and it was is close to being right on with the needle position and jetting, again the dyno run and plug chop will give full disclosure. Put g-force axle with fireball billet hubs on the rear and new anti-vib steering stem on. With the +4 swinger and +2 +1 front arms (fireball aswell) with elka dune editions, hopefully its set for the dunes. Done 2 heat cycles last night, will do 2 more this morning, then put her on the dyno. Real test will be pismo this coming weekend. Just had to right all this out, feels great to have it done and running after all the time, lack of sleep and money spent. Just need to find k&n pods to finish her off. Did everything else right, don't like half assing the filter, its just to get it past heat cycles and dyno run. Anyone know the part number for k&n pods to fit 28mm pwk's or knock off equivalents? Kids behind the counters around hear at the local shops are great at figuring it out stuff if its not in the factory books.

I can barely get on this site, country boy, not very good with computers, picture probably not going to happen. The v2 are two piece. The interior holder that the reeds are srcewed down to and the outside houseing that the bolts go through. The gasket is shaped to the outside piece thus allowing the inner peice to push backwards up against the manifold. The gap is the thickness of the gasket. i can put my finger down inside the manifold and move the cage inner piece back and forth. If the gasket would be a little wider, it would put pressure against the inner piece and not allow it to move. I went to Napa and bought a blank piece of gasket. will make my own. Just thought someone had run into this problem before.

Spent last two days with my engine builder putting in a hot rods 4mil, dune porting stock jugs for 4 mil. There's a lot of working porting cylinders correctly. My hats off to those of you who do it for a living. Putting v-force2 back in. Running a billet manifold with build in cross over tube. Solid flat face. The gaskets I have to put between the manifold and reed cage is thin and does not go over the inner section of the cage. THat section of the cage is removable and leaves a gap of the thickness of the gasket between the cage and manifold. The reed block can work out backwards the thickness of the gasket. Where can i find a gasket that covers the whole back-minus the opening for the air. This would hold the v-force two piece so it can't move backwards. Is this even an issue? Help. If there is a part number out there or another application that uses different style gasket that will work?

I am having same thing done to mine right now minus the spacer plate. I would look into having your domes cut and lose that spacer plate. I am having a dune/play port done to my jugs and they have to it for the 4mil 5mil crank/rod. The port timing is different, not sure if the spacer plate eliminates the timing difference or not. I have brand new 30mm oko carbs putting on. Wish I had planned on doing a 4mil before i bought the carbs, would have gone with 33pwk's. Your carbs need a lot bigger mains, idle, needle for the added cc's you are running. Need to post temp, elevation as well. Another possible problem would be the 19cc domes depending on elevation, may ned to run race gas due to compression levels. I would not run it until you richened the carbs and checked your compression levels. Get a good compression gauge and screw it into the cylinder head. Hold open the throttle and kick it over several times until the reading steadies. Over 150 look into race fuel. Also going to need to do plug chop. Read up on the threads here at hq regarding how to do a correct chop and reading as well as jetting and what effects each part of the rpm ranges. You have a lot to do. It can seem overwhelming at first but take your time and you can do it. You came to the correct site for info and there is a lot of people on here with vast knowledge that can help you do the fine tuning once you get it close.

I did it for years until we got our toy hauler. I would push the banshee in the back of the truck rear end first. Stand it up and roll it on its rear wheels until the grab bar hit the front of the bed. Then did the same thing with my wife's raptor 660 but when i got half way up the ramp I would have to lift the front end up and stand it up once the rear wheels got inside the bed off the tail gate. Rolled it back up to the banshee and tied them down to the respective corners first so they are pulling away from each other, not to ride on or wear against each other. Then I stapped them, to each other to hold them in place and make the tie down ridgid. This is something I did by myself but if you have another, it makes it a lot easier. Use better tie downs than harbor frieght cheapies, there's more force and weight loads on the straps doing it this way but it works. Still had room around the quads to load fire wood, fuel tanks for pismo. Have a 37 foot sandpiper now, its a lot easier on this 37 year body. Good luck, have fun at pismo. :beer:

Hey Woodro77. How was the ride and did you get it dialed in? Going to be running similar set up but with a 4mil and was wondering what you settled in at on the pwk's.

I don't claim to be an expert in fuels, but i see that both Firehead and blowit do both have knowledge on this subject and both sound to be close, just picking a few words here and there, if they were in person they would communicate same things a little better I believe. I fly and have a general understanding of av gas. An piston powered aircraft normal operates in a 2000 rpm range for flight. The av gas is designed to provide anti-gel and water seperation qualities so the engine keeps running at 18,000 feet at -10 degrees. The burn rate is designed for lower rpm's of the aircraft engine and not 10,000-12,000 rpm like race engines that run race fuels. The fuels are similar in make up and octane but there are enough differences that you should run the race gas over av gas.

I'm taking out my stock crank on thursday and putting in a 4mil. Doing it as an upgrade, when i pull it out and it still looks good I'll let you know if you have not found one by then. I don't want to promise or sell anything until i have a chance to make sure it is as good as it should be. My friend building the stroker can true and weld up the stock crank. :beer:

Firehead you are correct about the body on the heim being forged. I am talking about a new ball joint that they are working up right now. Yes they have a big hoss that is doing multiple at a time. I have watched the machine run and seen the different bodies of the ball joint that they are working on to try and get close to the same range of movement that they get in heim. There is so much time in machining that i don't know if they call sell them for a price to suppliers and then suppliers have to mark up and keep it in a price range that we can still afford to buy them. Which was a complaint in the first half of this thread, the price. If not a lot of people buy them due to price, they are not going to make them. But I would look for a new ball joint coming out soon.

Actually the hiems are made by fireball racing. Fireball sells them to other companys with the companys name on it. They put a lot of time and money into coming up with covers for the heims to keep out debree and keep in lube that would not interfer with the movement of the heim. They are also making up ball joints that are as impressive as the heim for strength. The joint is completely cnc'ed. Only down size to both is they are fairly heavy, Good for the woods and rock people, and big mx'ers. I would be suprised to see one of the new joints break.

Thanks for all the info BigRed. Glad to hear I don't have to drop a lot more money into the bike for the trans to hold up to the mods. :beer:

I am putting a 4 mil stroker in the shee. I had asked about a lockout clutch and people suggested a dune overide. What is a dune overide and roughly how expensive is it? If I have the case split to put in the crank, might as well do an overide or something else to tranny to strengthin and make it handle more power. MOds are .20 pistons, will have dune port to match 4mil timing, billet intake 30mm pwk's, t5, vforce. tusk clutch, +4 swinger, Have 20x10x10 extreme 9 paddle. Also what is roll out mean for tire diameter/engine power? I like the 20's for duning, not the best for dragging i know, but a lot more fun sliding and turning

Are you sure they are pwk and not 34pj. If it has a flat plate on top and not the round threaded top then its a 28pwk or the 30mm oko knock offs.

Sorry should have put why. Been told by the engine builder my shee's around 60 hp. I was thinking of putting in a 4mil stroker and having it reported for the 4mil. I am running a tusk clutch and been fairly happy but it is not lasting as long and is a much heavier pull with the Barnett springs. Looking for less of a work out and less fade to the clutch when i am dragging, but i still want to dune. I wasn't sure how easily the lockout disengages the clutch when I would want to down shift.

I have never ridden a banshee with the clutch lockout. Looks like it would be nice for drag racing. How is it for the dunes, up and down shifting all the time?

thanks for your advise. I respect what you say, The compression last checked was 165, my builder might have cut the domes down a little.

The overall lentgh of a banshee shock is to short for triple rates. Get duals with comp. adjust only, Its all you need, unless serious mx racing. The rear shock is good, just have it re-valved. My rear is still in good shape, haven't had to do it yet and i run a +4 swinger. I have dune edition dual rate with piggybacks comp. adjust, made all the difference in the world.

Hey Dajogejr. I have dune port on 20 over wiesco's stock crank trued/welded, t-5's,vforce2, 30mm knock off pwk's, fireball billet intake, +4 timing, cool head, has 18cc domes, but with the porting heights i can still run 93 octane. running 15 tooth front, stock rear gear. +4 swinger. She likes the speed of the banshee but after the port job it hits a little differently than it did before, she wants a little more over all so she's not always clutching it and shifting. It's fine for me, just trying to make her happier, plus if i can sell the idea to her, she will let me spend the money. But if it doesn't do what i say then i'm up a creek for spending money in the future.

I currently have a dune port on stock jugs and crank. Would a 4mil stroker crank and reporting it to match the changed timing/still dune port, make it easier to ride. I mean is it less work on the rider. My wife likes getting off her raptor and jumping on mine time to time. Would the 4mil be easier for her to ride. She can handle a bike real well, she just doesn't like the hard power hit. Would the 4mil broaden the power delivery over a larger rpm range. Can you lug the motor a little more and have it respond compaired to stock stroked dune port?

It is the exact same heim that they had before, but came up with taping it to bolt on a cover and a ring to hold down the boot. They are only on the heavy duty heim, not the lite duty ones.