burleybanshee

put in 155 mains, 52 pilots. raise the needle one maybe two positions, you have to play with it a little. Shoulod be close. The 30 oko's need bigger pilots than larger pwk's. Also when you have the carb bowls off. Take a drill bit a little larger than the exsisting holes that let the fuel into the bowl via the needle attached to the float and open them up. Not the hole the needle slides in but the ones that come out sideways that let the fuel into the bowl when the needle drops down. These are to small and you will run the bowls dry. I have the same basic upgrades and had these carbs, a lot of other people have had bowls running dry with the 30's. The fuel inlet holes are just to small to keep up with the jets in dragging/full pinned 1-5 or 6th gear runs, it will die out around 4th gear. Not good running lean like that, so fix the problem before it becomes one. A duel pingel does not fix the problem, don't waste the money, plus you lose your reserve when you switch over. Those mains and pilot jet sizes are what worked in mine at 800 ft elevation down to sea level, with k&n pods. The jets were also checked on the sniffer on the dyno. Did a lot of playing to dial it in and seat of pants on the pavement and dirt.

The heims are fine as long as they are washed or cleaned after a weekends ride. Most a-arm companys tell you to wd40 the heim after washing. Have had mine for three years, desert and dunes, no slop, still going strong and i use wd40. I have the heavy heims though. As far as a-arm strength, watch for the e-bay company's selling cheaply, there is a reason for it. You don't need to by laeger, to get the best. Most companys, laegar, fireball/janseen, lonestar, ect. a-arms are chrome moly steel and if you are doing 50 foot jumps, your frame will give long before the arms. Thats why most offer lifetime warranty because everything else will rip and break around the arms before the a-arms do.

I would say everytyhing is to small. 135 mains, might be close but i would go up 145 with a passion port job and do plug chop. Your idle jets should be up at 42 maybe higher. You can't go by the average jet size of the 34-35 size carbs, the 28 pwk and 30 oko run a bigger idle jet than its bigger brothers. I had 30's and switched to 35, didn't change anything else and had to run a small idle jet. Get your idle figured out then play with your main, that will let you set your neddle correctly for the mid throttle after you figure out your wot/main jet.

The air strikers are more of a motor cross carb. They are better for a lot of jumping, bottoming out, helps keep fuel flowing to the jets under hard harsh movements, you don't get them dumping fuel out the overflow tubes, and a little better botom end. More than just fins, you have a lot of tubing looping over the carb from one side to the other. I have standard 35's with boss intake and t-5's. BBCMUDTRUCK- said clearance issues, are you talking about the aircleaner/s? if thats the case, go down to auto store and take pods with carbs find straight hose to run as a spacer or intake runner, it moves the aircleaners back and does not touch the pipes.

I run 15x41 close to same power with +4 swinger buti run 8 paddle 21" haulers on 8s. I bog in 2nd but launch hard in first. I have to be over the bars on the launch, i'm 230 pounds. Was thinking of dropping down to 14x43 gearing kinda of inbetween the 14x41 and 15x41 to see if it will launch in second. If you can take off in second you are better off, no chance of hitting neutral. With a +6 swinger, i would say drop a few paddles, you will also gain some top end speed, doesn't sound like you need so many paddles out of the hole if it is hooking that hard. I've seen quads with less power stock stroke and are tuned correctly(ie swing arm length to tire height and paddles to weight and power and gearing) blow away cubs that aren't tuned correctly. Kinda an art form lost to many. they think more is better, ie more paddles, or they go to long on swinger, or tire diameter and gearing

not enough info to answer. Plus one mans dune port is anothers drag or play port. Like is 94 degrees warm and 98 hot? Get a different answer from whoever you ask. If you trust the guy and he really knows what he is doing, then let him do his job, you told him what you want. We have all been there when spending money for the first time upgrading. Its a learning process for you, this site can help on a lot of things but what you expect and what one person calls something is something we really can't help you out on.

I don't know if i read it right. But he said it used to launch in second. Kinda tells me maybe his compression has dropped off and not making as much low end torque as before? I would do a compression check and see. Yes it could also just be a jetting issue. I have a 4mil none cub with 15/41 gearing on 21x12x8 and have to launch in 1st if the sand is holding moisture. 14/41 gearing, he should have no problem, i am 230 pounds and don't have a problem in wet sand, aired up or down when i run the 14/41, was going to go to 14/43 and see if there is a happy medium.

If you have stock carbs with tors, the cable will not fit the 30okos. YOu have to get one for the pwk carbs, pro design makes one. Good news when i switched from 30's to 35's it was the same cable.

It a blue duner. Ya, it was bad by saturday, but thats whats nice about having elkas and +2+1 arms, added weight to the bike but rides real nice out there when its like that.

I got two radiator hoses that were straight with the right size diameter and cut them about 6" long and put them between the intake boot and the filter. It moved the air cleaners back and off the t5's. My fireball intake is the same as a boss intake. Problem solved. Get four good strong clamps, mine haven't come off and worked great.

Pismo was nice the weekend before, started getting tore up then rains hit tuesday and wednesday. Sand held deep ruts and groves rough was to say the least. A lot of people were dragging not at maidden flats, but at a point back from comp hill area towads the back fence area. Nice and flat for a while and a lot health running banshees out there. A few 4-pokes as well. Good to see a lot of dragging going on and people lining up against like powered machines. Was a lot of fun, wish it was like that more often. My little 4 mil duner did pretty well against some bigger cub long swing armed drag bikes at maiden flats. The suspension helped me out in the rough woops were they had to take it easy. Never the less, to all out their, thanks for some good racing.

Was out riding thanksgiving week at Pismo. It rained tuesday and wednesday, sand held all that moisture. I couldn't keep the front down on the shee with a +4 swinger and those tires. Launching was impossible and second gear was also tough. Could have used a 6 or 8 swinger. good news ran against some 7mil cub and did real well holding my own against them, couldn't beat them but made a good showing. You will like those tires.

+4 with mild port. Depending on the dunes, +6 starts to get to long on razor backs when transitioning slowly or stopping on top. Rolling dunes or ones that aren't that sharp the +6 is fine and is easier for inexperenced rider to handle, +4 with a lot of power takes a lot of riding time to control.

i'm 230 pounds, 4mil non cub about 70-75 hp. 21x12x8 haulers eight paddle. +4 swinger 50/50 duner/drag. If the sand is holding some moisture or coarser it will wheelie just fine when dragging through 1-3rd gear. In softer or drier sand it hooks but doesn't come up. I would run 8 extreme or 9 regulars if i was your weight and had a cub. The more paddles you put on the ground, the more it holds your motor back when your in the upper gears like hill shooting or long flats, motor doesn't rev out as fast. More paddles will give you better out of the hole.

Stay away from those tires. 21 or 22 max for the power you have. If you run the 22's with to many paddles, you are going to bog it down. 21 are a happy medium. Run less paddles. The more paddles you have, the more drag on the motor there is at speed. If you are shooting hills, run less paddles. I would rather lose a little of the low end and have a lot more top end speed. If you were running a cub, you could run more paddles and worry as much having to change your gear to suite the tire diameter.

Doesn't make sense buying two sets of tires because you already have the rims. It's just two rims and they don't cost that much to buy 8's with the tires, Its a lot less to buy tire/rim combos than two sets of tires to fit your 10" rims . Save the money and buy other parts for the quad to ride nicer or more power. Just my two cents. You have a lot of people on here trying to steer you two 21 or 22 on 8" rims, theres a reason for that. We are not in this to make money off of you, just help out from experience.

Plan on upgrading your clutch and getting a extended swing arm, carbs, intake, reeds, K&n pods, timing plate, pipes depending on your port job. Not just crank and porting with a cool head. You are going to spend some money, but its worth it. Jeff is a great guy and he will give up straight up advise and suggestions on what you need and should have.

The extremes have a stiffer paddle and you don't lay them over as much as a normal hauler paddle. Good rule is to run one less paddle than a normal hauler. A 9 paddle extreme will grip as much as a regular 10 paddle hauler. I would go with the extreme, the paddles last longer, they don't split and crack at the bonding location of the tire, like normal hauler paddles do after a while

I'm 230pounds with basic same bike. Run 15-41 with 21x12x8 8 paddles. Had 20x10x10 9 paddle extremes, now on wife's raptor. The 21 drag a lot better, not as good out of the hole, but much faster on top. the 20's on 10" rims are good for playing/sliding around. Get the 21 and air them up firmer and they play well, then air them down to drag. Don't run 15 front tooth unless you are in powder sand or have alot of motor for dragging, normally have to start in 1st gear, up side there is a lot less shifting when playing around in the dunes

your pilot seems a little small for 30's, i know large pwk's it would be right. You should be around 45 pilot and 145 to 150 main, depending on your porting and altitude. Do a compression check and see what you have on each cylinder as well. Might let you know if you need to re-ring, might also help the midrange.

I have the +2+1, great a-arms. They did not buy out Denton, they made all of denton arms and swingers. They also make all of Jansseens. You must have gotten the heavy heim, good choice. I'm putting their aluminum rebuildable ball joints on soon to reduce the weight a little, they are very strong and good as well. Roger or Larry will 98% of the time answer the phones. They stand behind their products. Plus your frame will twist or snap before those chrome moly arms do.

i Have a set of works dual rate with remote rezzy.'s like new. 200.00 plus shipping.

was out last weekend. It was pretty tore up for general riding, the drags had some good size woops off the start line, all the way across. The woops were so large that you shifted twice before you could set down and be comfortable, or you couldn't be in it all the way starting, and i have a nice dune suspension unlike drag bikes.

It only happened when wot dragging, never letting off and by the time hit 4th, started to run out. Regular duning no, but why not open up the holes and correct the problem so you are not limited, you don't want to starve the engine under load, dragging or trails, engines go boom that way.

athe correct needle has nothing to do with why the bowls run dry. Take the float off and the needle will come with it. Look at the tube that it slides in. there is a hole in the side that the fuel flows through and into the bowl. Take a drill bite and find the correct size. Then go up two sizes in your drill bit set and open up the holes. I forget the size to open to, use some common sense please. If your drill bit set only has 5 then don't go up two sizes, i'm talking about a 1/16 or so bigger may 3/32 bigger than what it is, not an 1/8 or larger. Should correct the problem.