burleybanshee

got 4mil long rod .20 over, t5's, dune port, vf2, fireball billet intake, will have pods, noss head 165 psi. Had 30mm okos' ran 162 main with 55 pilot. I know 35's don't need as large of a pilot as 30's. Will the mains change do to larger volumne of air? was going to start with 50 pilot? Any advise please!

Quick run down. Pismo all last week. Dragging the motor ran hard 1-3th, then top 4th and 5th at full power it would act like running out of fuel. Disconnected fuel lines, flowing plenty of fuel for the 30mm oko's. Got a 4mil/5mil rod, .20 over 795's, t5, vf2, mild dune port +4, 165 psi, 15-41 gearing, +4 swinger, 21X12x8 haulers, 240 pound rider. Pulled plugs were little black wet. went from 165 down to 162, still wet. Went down to 158, no longer wet but now at full throttle at top of rpm's per gear felt like it was missing or not firing all the time. Top rpm power per gear felt not as hard didn't pull like it did when it was richer. Went to 160 jet, felt same way, a little better. Do I need to get diffent iginition like adjustable timing or is it just falling off to quick with the t5's? Do I need bigger carbs? Should I go down to a 14tooth front gear. Am I putting to much of a load on the engine with my weight and the 15 tooth up front for it to keeping pulling and climbing in rpm's? in 4th 5th gears. When it had the 162 mains, it pulled like a freight train through 1-3 gear and half way through fourth. Help. I know a lot of questions?

Have a 4mil/5mil rod, .20 pro lites, billet intake, 30mm oko's, vf2, t5, noss head 165 psi. The port job was done to be not to aggressive but I would like more, not enough power for the time and money put in. The exhaust numbers are 190, 33 blow down, not sure what the transfere numbers are. What would be good timing numbers for porting it to dune type port for the 4mil. Ride only the dunes with the shee, +4 swinger, i'm 225 pounds. Bike doesn't hit like it use to when I was a lot skinner. THANKS FOR ANY HELP OR ADVISE YOU GUYS/GALS CAN GIVE.

Just sizes in between those help dial in jetting closer. The ones you have will get you in the ballpark or even spot on. If you need to go down or up a little from the 160's is where they come in. You can get them at any local quad/bike shop.

Around what pole number are going to try and camp, I'll look for you guys. Wife and baby slow down the partying a bunch, well, the baby does. Will look for the sandpiper. I got a 37 foot double slide sandpiper myself. I'll be getting there on the 3rd. Shooting for pole 5 or 6, like being down further.

52 pilot and 158 main depending on how aggressive your dune port is. Should put you in the ball park. You can't run mikuni jet number sizing for pwk style carbs, espically the 28mm knock off's. Good carbs, I run them on my shee. Some people need to change the needle out to a lesser taper, but it has five slots so there is adjustment up and down.

I'm running about the same power. 380 4mil/long rod, t5's 30mm carbs, moderate dune play, billet manifold, 165 psi. I have a +4 swinger, +2+1 a-arms. 225 pound rider. I had 20X10X10 9 paddle extremes. 15tooth 41 rear. Could drop it in 2nd dragging and fly out of the hole. But to much paddle once you get up to speed. Borrowed a friends 21X12X8 regular 8 paddles. Made a huge difference. Not as much out of the whole, but a lot more top speed, plus softer ride. Only down side to the 8 inch rim, tire likes to roll up on the side instead of sliding. You have to work a lot harder to slide the bike playing on the dunes. For dragging the 8 is great, plus more side wall lets it flex more to grab out of the whole, like a dragster and grow in size as the sped get higher, helping top in diameter/making your gears taller. Not a huge change, but more than the 10 rim does. Also the type of sand you are riding in, coarse or fine and the amount of moisture in the sand makes a difference as well.

The 28pwk and their clone 30mm oko, that I have, need bigger pilots than the bigger pwk's do. I am running a 58 pilot in my 4mil long rod and a 162 main. Had a 55 pilot and the low end was real crisp and the sniffer on the dyno told me it was a little lean, 58 was perfect after i played with the needle. That is also at about 70 degrees at 400 foot elevation.

I have had both as well. Had a prodesign bolted to the box with the k&n. Had to switch to pods because the new carbs and billet intake moved it back to far for the box to still bolt up. Both about the same price when all said and done with outwears. I liked the prodesign a little better than the pods. Just me being scared, i'm afraid i'm going to look down one day and a pod fell off while riding in the dunes. The pods will lighten up the bike a little eliminating the air box. But if you ride where there is water I would stick with the box. Also have to relocate or do away with the over flow bottle. I just did away with mine.

I hope you make some more mods to your motor soon. CPI's like a little more done to the motor than just a K&N filter. You will get better performance from fatty's or t5/t6's than you will cpi's on a stock motor. Just fyi.

I would put a 52 pilot and a 152 main. Probably end up with a 150 main with stock porting, but 152 should be safe with those mods you have.

I'll be over there for the whole week. I'll look for your shee, not to many running around pismo that looks like yours.

I got the tires, but haven't used them yet. Going to Pismo in June, will know then. Larry Price did my motor. The exhaust port is at 190 with 33 blow down. I was there the whole time he ported those jugs. He put a lot of time in. He went small on the exhaust numbers and said for me to ride it and if I wanted more, he would cut it up to 192 or 3. I wanted a good play bike that my wife good still jump on and enjoy. It pulls hard through the whole rpm range. Not a light switch at all. I wanted a fun bike to ride that didn't wear me out. Well, I think I'm going to pull the jugs back off and have he work them over a little more, not enough power for what I was looking for though I am very happy with what Larry did, and he worked hard on the motor for me. Larry has done a lot of motor and I have rode other banshee's he ported that had drag ports, and o shit, hang on pull. I know he knows he stuff. I wanted a mild motor and build up, once you cut it for all out power, there's no going back. I also question the dyno number. TT 700 raptors with pipes, filter and progamable ignition-fuel mapping, pistons, were only getting 43 horse power on the dyno. So not sure about the numbers. Full race LTR's were posting mid 40's on the dyno as well. Don't knnow.

I don't understand? What do you mean it must be richer down there. If you drop in elevation your bike will lean out more do to more air density. How was the idle-off idle response? did it get better? how was full throttle?

I got mine on e-bay. When you search for carbs, go below the listed items to ebay sellers bellow. There is another guy besides cpw that sells them. He sells buy now not bid stuff, comes with k&n knockoffs but no carb cable. I haven't seen the 30mm oko anywhere else besides ebay. Happy with mine. Wish now I would have gotten 33mm pwk's, went to 4mil, need a little more carb. But the low end response is great with these carbs.

Normally a leaner idle will be crisper not bog, unless you are way lean. With the current idle jet you are running I doubt you are way lean, so going down should crispen up the throttle response.

I would do one thing at a time. If it is backfiring in 4th-6th, tells me your main is lean. I would put in the 160 and see if it gets better. The Pilot jet should be right in the neighborhood for your bike. Maybe the 55, i doubt on these carbs you will be lower than the 52's. Everyone keeps comparing the 34pj or 35pwk pilot numbers to these 30oko's and you can't. They act differently. The carb is a pwk 28 knockoff. the 30mm comes from boring out the reed side of the tube on the upper part of the tube. It measures 30mm up and down and 28mm across, just fyi. My 4mil runs t5, 165 psi, boss intake, k@n filter with pro design, air box cut away, vf2. It liked the 55 pilot with neddle all the way up, bottom clip position and 162 main, 1 3/4 turn out on idle screw. The pilot was pumped to a 58 with the needle second clip from top 1 1/2 on idle screw and was perfect on the sniffer of the dyno. I know its hard to compare 4mil to stock , but it shows you a ball park, espically if you have bigger pipe than t5's and play/dune port.

I have read other peoples questions regarding pilot sizes for other pwk's and wondered why cpw sends 55's and 58 with the carbs. Only thing I can think of is they use pwk 28 neddles in the oko30's. Different neddle size and shape as well as maybe the idle screw openeing for fuel is different size in the 28's compare to 33 and 35's. I know mine is a 4mil, but i had to go up to a 58 from a 55. Had great responce with the 55's just a touch lean on the sniffer. Am i wrong in tuning the idle and off idle on the dyno. You can't plug chop your pilot to see if you are a jetted correctly. I think the 30oko's might be a little different than larger pwk's and can't associate the pilot numbers from one to another for tuning? The mains though are still apples to apples I believe. The guy at carb parts wharehouse sent the 55 and 58 when i told him i had a standard bore and stroke shee. He told me 55 should be perfect for my application and threw in the 58. Went to the 4mil and needed the 58's. Dajogejr, I'm not trying to go against you. You are one of the most knowledgable persons on here that is willing to share and help. You helped me out and I appreciate it. I think you are rich on your mains and need to play with the neddle some more on the 55 pilots. Just my two cents.

Hey leadfoot350, why should i not coat two stroke pipes? I understand it makes the pipe a little thicker. Thinner pipes make more power i've been told, but the increase can't be that much.

I have those carbs, but i'm running them on a dune ported 4 mil with t5. Found 162 to be just a touch rich but is perfect at sea level. I have 58's for pilots in right now with the middle position on the neddle. Was running 55 pilot with the neddle all the way up and was just a little lean on the dyno sniffer under load. It sounds to me like you are a little rich on the mains and need to drop down a size. What do you have in it now, the 155's?

I changed my mains the other day. Had 165 in the 30mm oko, (28 pwk knock offs). The plugs were wet and fouling after a ride. Tried putting in 160 and tightened to much and broke one. So i pulled them out and put in a 158 and did two wide out runs from 1st through 6th. As soon as I topped out in sixth stopped, turned around did it again and chopped it on second pass back. Pulled plugs and they were white. Didn't cut them down to see if I had smoke ring. Fired it up next morning with out choking, heard a little knock. Is thhis knock possibly just because its cold? Brand new rebuilt with four hours of riding on motor. $mil/5mil rod, 795 pistons, 165 psi compression, +4 timing, running ms 103 fuel. V-force reeds. k&n filter, t5's. Could I have severly damaged the motor/pistons where i would need to already replace pistons? Second, it pulled great from bottom to top, but it didn't have that old feeling of hanging on for dear life. Would i notice a gain switching from t'5 to CPI's? I dune mostly, have +4 swinger, 15/41 gearing and 225 pounds?

I got the same price quote, $150.00, from caps to jet coat the pipes. Just got the 4mil running and a few rides. Not sure if I want to switch to cpi's or not? If not, i will get them jet coated. Thought about the paint, but $150. to drop off the t'5 with all the rust, ala pismo, and they come back looking nice and give greater protection at the coast is worth it.

You will not get that type of power with stock jugs, don't care you builds it. You are talking about cub 421 type power. I spent a bunch on my 4mil with ported stock jugs. You are looking at getting a cubby for a 4mil and 68mm pistons, after market head, shear or rocket pipes, at least 35pwk's and k&n pods, intake, reeds, pistons, clutch and basket. Full case gasket set and seals. Your machincist/builder costs. You are also going to need longer swinger, chain, re-gearing depending on type of riding. You have an expensive road a head of you to get an honest 85-90 horses to the ground. Welcome to the addiction. You came to the right place. :beer:

I also run the g-force axle. For the price you can't beat it. It's heavier than the stock axle but it will take a lot more abuse. I put billet hubs on the axle to try and reduce some weight. I had fmf's and went to t-5's. Didn't notice a big loss in low end power, did notice middle and top gains comparetively to fmf's. I would recommend the t5 over fmf's. withthe shee natural power band and wanting to rev, if you are not trail riding i would go with a little more of a mid range pipe. I don't know about the dmc's.

I have the +2+1 arms with elka piggyback comp adjust dune editions on my shee and love them. I got the arms from the manufact. who makes janseens arms. They recommended the +2+1 arms over the lt for the basic reasoning is cost. The lt's give you the ability to have longer shocks so the can install 3 or 4 rated spring set ups. Nicer/cushier ride, but you don't gain more travel. unless you are doing h-bomb type jumps and or are made of money i would stay with +2+1 mx'ers and a nice set of elkas, or other nice shocks. Elkas are nice but they are very proud of them and charge you for it, I got a good deal so I have them. I noticed a huge difference when i put on the a-arms and shocks, night and day. The g outs at the bottom wer not harsh and my old shoulders can handle jumps and drop offs again. I wouldn't suggest huge jumps with the shee. Unless you do a lot of gusting to the frame. A lot of my friends have bent and cracked frames from mx track racing on a stock frame. The banshee wasn't designed for hard core mx'ing. I love my bashee, and use it for its designed purpose, thats why the trx250 ruled for years until the new 4 poke frames using trx geometry came out. Now the 250r are for sale a dime a dozen. The janseen arms and swinger are well made parts and the frame will bend or break normally before they do. If you do mx it I would suggest the anti-vibe steering stem, It took a lot of the jolt out of the handle bars. Just my 2 cents.