burleybanshee

I run a pingel and only have 35's. That being said, If your screen is clear i doubt you need one. I put one on because my petcock was done and needed replacing so I put one on. It's nice piece of mind, but unless your running alcohol or 39+ carbs i doubt you need it. I doesn't make you burn anymore fuel so it couldn't hurt. If you want to spen the $80.00., looks cool too!

I have a set of 30mm oko's from CPW. They are 28mm knockoffs and the carb have been machined on the inlet side to 30mm. Just the upper section of the carb. It measures 30mm up and down but the side to side is still 28mm wide. They are CPW's carbs that i bought off ebay. To my knowledge there is no such thing as a true stock 30mm pwk style carb, all have been machined and opened up. With that said, they are a great carb and the guys at cpw will get the carbs jetted close for your engine set up. I pulled mine off and put on 35's only because I have a 4mil and needed more carb. I recommend them.

Yes, your stock chain will fit.

I run the same intake as jbooker and love it. It is nice working on the bike without the cross over tube in the way, plus like he says, it moves the larger carbs off the shift arm. They say it also adds a little power over a stock intake setup? I run the 35's with mine and k&n knockoffs from F.A.S.T.. IF you run this intake and 34 or 35, filters will normally ride on the pipes, so the down angled filters help get the filter off the pipes.

You are way to low on the pilot. I ran those for a time, you should be looking at 48 to 50 pilot. They take larger pilots than the 35pwk or 34 pj's do. I ran the needle it came with, dial in your pilot first then play with the needle. They take different needles than there larger kin. You will also want to drill out the fuel inlet holes on the float needle section. Not the inlet on the tip needle, but on the sides when the float needle slides out, it pours out past it on the sides. You will see what i'm taking about when you take the float and needle out. The holes are to small and you can run the bowls dry, opening them eliminates that problem.

I bought a tank off Steve and it was shipped fast and just as he said it was. Steve is a good guy.

Thanks for the info. Just didn't want to put old stuff in and the oil not be good. Cheaper to throw it out and go fresh than rebuild a motor. BUt I will use the stuff I have thats about a month old. Just got back from Pismo. The shee ran like a stripped ass ape now with the 35's on it.

How long does the 927 last once mixed in fuel. I've heard some say it starts to break down right away and you should use it within a week or two. Others have said it lasts a long time. Help please? Second question, what is the shelf life of vp110 race fuel?

If you are running a single, than ya, thats great for trail but not wide open runs on roads and dragging. The size of your main and pilot tells me its not a single though. I run a 168 main and 58 pilot in mine with cel needle differrent jetting for pipes and porting and elevation. If you are running dual 35's they are plenty for that motor. I know of a lot of drag and screaming engines that run 34pj and 35pwk's.

I walk away from piped 450's, stroked and worked over 450's, still beat on draging on pavement, but to do a 10 top end run, no. I want to keep my engine the way it is. The four stroke can keep pulling hard on top and not over heat the engine the way a 2 stroke would.

I ride the same type, dunes, like dragging and riding around the ranches. I have 4mil,5mil long rod, noss head, 35's, play/dune port. Love the power, can play all day and not be worn out by the way the power comes on. Starts down low and keeps pulling. It will cost to do a 4mil, need more mods, but I would not go back. Plus extended swing arm would be a must in dunes.

Our quads are almost identical power levels I believe. I have boss intake and pods and t5 not cpi's, other than that. I have a +4 swinger to help keep the front down. I'm 230 pounds and have 15-41 gearing. IF you can handle taking off in first the 15 tooth front gear will help you pick up a lot on the road. To me it is a night and day difference when racing. Its a pain in the ass sometimes when you hit neutral shifting but the gains are big. We are in that in between power level of taking off in second gear with 15-41 on roads or dunes with 22 paddles and still needing first gear for our weight and gearing. If we had cubbys it would make up that difference and launch all day in second with out a problem. I don't want a light switch bike and I'm never going to see 180 pounds again, so I launch in first with a 15 or 2 with 14 tooth. As far as compression, I run 165 and it pulls hard, bottom to top, revs out quickly, having cpi's or shears would help it pull longer on top, but it revs out quick.

Ya, the shaft/ball is steel and it has delron/teflon inserts as well. It is just the body that is out of aluminum. The steel was just a little bit stronger in the stress tests on the press. I will test them out and let you know.

They do have an enclosed heim, it has an aluminum cap with two small bolts holding it down and a rubber boot on the bottom. But you can't just buy the boot by itself. They also have the billet rebuildable ball joint with almost the same amount of travel. I just put a set on my wife's 660 raptor with +3+1 a-arms, very nice. Going to take the heavy heims off my shee and put on a set of billet aluminum rebuildable ball joints, real light and very strong. The aluminum ones are not out for sell yet.

Thanks for al the info. My bad I have a .070 clearance and was wondering how much a .050 to .045 squish clearance would increase horsepower. I will get a hold of Dave and order another set of domes, thanks.

When I cut my heads for the 4mil long rod, we cut the domes .130 instead of .110. I have .70 clearance between head and piston. I believe the safe and desired space is around .50 for a dependable strong motor. I have 165 psi in both cylinders. If it had 165 psi with a .50 squish, would it make more power? I have a noss head, so it wouldn't be that costly to buy new domes and get the squish right. I could even buy already cut domes from Dave. Would it be worth it? I run 50/50 race gas, should I go up in psi since i'm already mixing premium and 110? I'm at sea level. have around =4 timing in the motor.

If Wallace doesn't take them I, will..

how much do you want for them out right? I'm looking for a set.

dO YOU PLAN ON DRAGGING BIG HILLS AT DUMONT OR GLAMIS? THE MORE PADDLES YOU HAVE IN THE SAND, MORE DRAG ON THE MOTOR FOR TOP END. YOU DON'T WIN THE RACE OUT OF THE HOLE ON BIG HILLS. lOOKS OF YOUR MOTOR BY YOUR SIG. YOU ARE NOT RUNNING A LOT OF POWER. NINE WOULD BE FINE FOR REGULAR HAULERS. THE EXTREMES ARE A MORE RIDIG PADDLE AND DON'T ROLL OVER AS MUCH SO YOU SHOULD GO ONE PADDLE DOWN IF YOU GET THEM. THE TIRES HAVE A MUCH BETTER ROLLOUT THAN 20'S DO AND THE 8 INCH RIM REALLY HELPS HOOK UP. NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE WHEN YOU BOLT THOSE ON. YOU SHOULD STILL BE ABLE TO DROP THE CLUTCH IN 2ND FOR TAKE OFFS. IF YOU GO UP TO A 15 TOOTH IN FRONT, MORE THAN LIKELY HAVE TO START IN 1ST, UNLESS YOU WEIGH A BUCK TEN.

The jet numbers are keihen numbers, you can't compare the number to mikunis. You should take the bowls off, take the float out and the fuel inlet needle connected to the float. Then take 3/32 drill bit and open up the fuel inlet holes so it will feed the bowls faster. The fuel inlet holes are on the side off the tube that the needle slides in. A lot of people, including myself, ran the bowls dry dragging by the time hit end of fourth gear. Other than that, you will love those carbs. I would start with 55 pilot and probably go down to a 50 pilot, 1 1/2 turns out on screw and a 158 main. These 30mm oko's like a little larger pilot than the bigger pwk's do.

I've got a set of 30mm oko's. Sell for $140.00. Also have a cut away box with prodesign airfilter intake with K&N airfilter,outwear, with the boots will sell as well for $60.00.

hey socal! I have a 88r looking for some parts. I don't have access into planetsand to see what you are selling. I'm looking for some good plastics, tank. let me know.

I would go with the 30's as well. I just took mine off and went to 35's. Needed bigger carbs for the 4mil stroker and Dune port. I loved those 30's. Mine were brand new have two whole rides on them. Was running carbs dry, but they are now fixed thanks to , Master of Faster, finding the flaw in the oko's. the feed holes off the fuel float needle needed to be enlarged. If I had known that, I would have stuck with the 30's for a while longer. The carbs and motor were crisp off the line, great response and that was with a larger motor and more aggressive porting. They pulled all the way through the rpm range. Very easy to adjust as well. But if i were limited to 33 or 35, go with 33's . I would be willing to sell the 30's cheap.

are you asking about just the higher riser, they also make +1 and +2 forwards as well as +1 or +2 up, maybe not lonestar, but other manuf. do both forward and up offsets.

Master of Faster, I had the exact same problem two weekends ago at pismo. I have 4mil stock ported jugs 30mm oko, and it was falling on its face 3/4 way down track, no fuel. My petcock was fine. I talked to cpw and they said the jets should not out run the bowls capacity, but they are. the floats are set correctly and I played with jets sizes up and down just like you did. I have a duel line pingel and 35pwk's coming from Jeff at FAST. The 30's are to small for a 4mil ported bike. Go for low end tech. riding, not for wide open dragging. I love the 30's execpt for running the bowls dry. They have to small of an fuel inlet line and not much area inside the bowl cup to hold fuel.