burleybanshee

Was out at pismo for labor day and headed back out for the weekend of the 12th, anyone going to be out there? Did some dragging with my duner, did pretty well against some drag bikes because they could leave hard due to the woops in front of the starting area. My bikes a lot heavier for duning but was able to take advantage of the suspension setup for racing on the rougher surfaces against bikes with marvin shaw shocks and little light spindly a-arms. Any ways had fun, did always win but don't need to. The dunes were tore up and not a lot of banshee's out there, enough for some good races though. Seemed like the rangers were leaving people alone more or just giving warning, which was good.

I have close to the same engine setup as you do. Had 30oko's on it. Dialed it in with a dyno sniffer and the 158 mains should be right there with a 50 pilot to a 52 pilot. The pilot was in between due to the stock needle, i did not have ones to fit the 28-30 which take a smaller size than its bigger brothers. Yes the bowls run dry, open up the inlet holes on the fuel neddle and it will take care of that problem. I loved those carbs, but they are a little small for your setup and you can make more power with 33 or 35 imo. I did not notice a lose down low when i switched to 35's. All depends on your pipes, reeds and porting, but i didn't loss response and have more top end.

I run shee with about 30 more horse power and run the 21x12x8 with 8 paddles. Not quit as good out of the hole, but i'm pass'em by the second shift and pulling away. IF you do any type of distance dragging or shooting a hill, the eights are the way to go. If you were in tight sand trails that were slow and technical, more like oregon has than i would say step up to 9 paddle. Don't wory about extremes espically with your horsepower, and if you do run them, go down one paddle to equal what a regular hauler does for grip and traction.

did you mod the carbs and did it solve the problem?

I am thinking about going to 421 cubby. I know i need to upgrade the clutch and pipes to fit the new power. Question is, what is the stock out of box exhaust numbers on a cub. Trying to compare with what my stockers have. I know they are a drag port and make a lot more power, no comparision. Just want to know blow down and exhaust numbers on stock none touched 4mil cub cylinder.

Pingel is nice but you don't need them for those carbs. The problem is the fuel inlet holes on the fuel inlet needle( the one that connects to your float). The holes that let the fuel into the bowl when the needle drops down are to small. I forget the size of drill bite i used, but take a bite and find what size fits in it then go up two sizes and open up the holes. This will allow more fuel into your bowkls and they will not run dry. I had the same probelm. Great carbs, sold mine to another guy because they were to small for my 4mil and i went up to 35's and a pingel. You can get a pingel, they are nice, but it will not solve the problem. Make sure when you open up the holes, that you look inside the tube where the needle slides and make sure it is smooth and has no burs to hang the neddle up

i had those carbs from cpw and had no problem, good carb just need to dial them in. My did not come ready to go, i needed to change them several times, but when i did they blew away stock carbs and a lot easier to adjust once you got them in the ball park. Hang in there. It is frustrating when learning to dial in 2-stroke carbs for the first time. A rich boog can be confused with a lean one, the plugs will help tell you which way to go on the mains. The idles should be crisp response off idle. If it is, go one higher and see if its the same. A lean idle will be responsive when just blipping the trhottle, and its better to go up one and see if it loses response then you know you were good, if it stays the same then you were to lean.

I would do a plug chop and see what you have on the plug. I think you are rich. I would have said 50 idle and 152 main, and you will probably go down to a 150 main with your mods and elevation/temp. Needle on the middle clip. How is it in the mid range? and it will change when you change jets so you might have to move it up one with a smaller idle and main if the mid range is good right now.

i would say a 48 pilot and 145 to 148 main jet should be close, the numbers you have listed look to lean, even for stock porting and just add on's. I had those carbs, you will like them and they will perform better than the stocks once you dial them in.

what type of billet side cover are you selling and how much?

the last three times I went, so one in our camp had an ice chest or gas cans stolen. Been going on for years. Next trip we are leaving a can or two out not locked up. We have a special quad that runs on gas and sugar, and if someone is that hard up to steal the gas they can have it. We use older gas cans that we will not mis much and have a special marking as to not get confused later with our race gas. I have always locked everything up and tyhe cable goes around the axle on the trailer through the propane tanks, gas cans, bbq's, tables and quads, not a problem to date. I will be out there for labor day and thanksgiving.

I would do a plug chop on a warmed up engine with a set of new plugs and check. I kinda doubt you will have to change a main, maybe tweak your idle adjustment, but thats about it. Really not that much of a gain espically with your current engine mods. Yes it will give maybe a pony or two on a heavier modded porting, pipes and carbs.

I seen all the modern 4 strokes pulled apart by an aftermarket company coming up with big and better parts. By far, hands down the ktm is an awesome quad. Great a-arms and shocks, front and back, good swinger, steering styem and 4 position style bars. The frame and engine combo, magura clutch and brakes with all steel braided line. maxxis tires. The power is awesome, espically if you pipe and filter it. I love my shee, but if I had to go buy a bike that is race ready, it would be the KTM. Not much to do to it but put nerf bars and kill switch, no need for a-arms or shocks. So your spending a little more money for it, but its already done, you are not going to drop another 2-3 k in it for suspension and other mods. Kinda like the ltr450 is but much better in all areas except no fuel injection. THe ds450 keeps blowing up the engines so the dealers are letting go of them cheap. Good frame and suspension, but poor drivetrain. The outlaw is nice bike but compared to ktm its not much of a choice.

I got a set of works dual rate remote res. shocks for a banshee i would get rid of for $250.00 plus shipping.

YOu can also call up fireball and order a set complete aftermarket j-arms from them.

You should be fine run 91, every engine is slightly diffeent. I have 165 and she does not have an issue at 400 ft elevation. When i go to pismo, sea level and cooler climate, i run 50/50, just because of the compression rising, want to be safe. You are not losing out for 160psi, if you are real high, well above 180, then the motor doesn't want to rev out as quickly, that would be the only performance disadvantage, but greater response out of the hole. trade off.

You must live outside the USA if you bought a 2008 banshee. FMF to toomeys t5 or t6, either k&n pods or pro design plate with k&n for the air box, put a set of boyseen reeds in the stock cages, should need v-force 3 reeds cages for that set up unless you plan on going bigger in the future. Get a timing plate and fly wheel puller so you can put on the plate and advance it up to 4 degrees. Best simple bolt on mods to wake up your shee.

Ya, the cel neddle is more than likely the way to go, 155 to 152 main, 48-50 pilot. YOu need to give a little more info like what pipes you are running and any port work, elevation, that would help us get you closer. the above jets are for your average stock banshee with pipes and filter.

I built a dune bike and can't afford the hillshooter, thats next. If you have the money do another 4mil. The low end grunt compared to stock is real nice and much easier to ride around the dunes. If you do a 4mil, stay with a mild dune port and mid pipes like t5's, trinity's. A lot less shifting and it will pull its self out of a bog a lot of times. This is real big when you are riding with a bunch of 4-pokes that tractor their way and slow down in front of you alot of the times, just because they can. The 28 to 30 range carbs if not 4mil, 33-35 pwk if 4mil. +2+1 a-arms and a g-force axle make all the difference in the world. If you do a 4mil, then do a +4 swinger, if not a +2. Thing about putting +2+1 a-arms, is, to keep the geometery of the bike correct you should lengthen the swinger unless you are flat track/woods race. 20x10x10 tires are the way to go, no matter what the tire is. The 10" rim with little sidewall lets you slide the ass end around with not that much effort. Ran the haulers that size for 10 years on my other banshee's and loved them, eight paddles. Switched to 21x12x8 to do some hill shooting and drags as well. lost a lot of the play sliding around but picked up alot more in straight line performance, also depends on air pressure in the tires. If you can afford elkas or similiar brands get them, takes alot of the chop out of the handle bars and you can ride so much longer. The dune editions are a lot softer and nice but not the best for big air due to the valving. Anit-vib steering stem helps reduce fatigue, if you got the 300-350 to drop on one. Front dune tires are needed but look cool and the dual rib sand stars turn real nice. On drag bike the smoothes are nice and light weight but not the best for hard carving. A dune bike is going to weigh more than a hill shooter or drag bike if it has all the bells and whistles, but you can sky a well outfitted dune bike all day and not break anything. Plus you are not exhausted from trying to hang on all day, espically at a tore up sand location like pismo or other areas that get tore up from all the rails and trucks. I say it weighs more due to added material for wider and longer a-arms, swinger, anti-vibe, remote or piggyback res, and the chrome moly material over the thinner stock metals or aluminum.

I will be out there that weekend. I'll try and look you guys up. SOCal, do you still have that sandpiper 5th wheel and a ford pulling it? Thats how i found your camp the time before.

I would say 50 pilot with 160 mains, cel neddle go from there.

It will not hurt as animal siad. But if you don't have the compression to warrant the higher octane fuel then you are just flushing away money plus a little bit of power if you just used 93.

Like Dajogejr said, go with the dune ported stocker with a 4 mil. Large improvement over stockish banshee. You can always upgrade/sell the 4 mil later and go bigger. Learn on this and then proceed upward in power. Most people don't know how to get the most out of what they have, ie (shift points, how to launch off the line, weight transfering from less to more weight on rear axle) to get the most out of the quad. You don't go from dragging racing your street legal camaro to a top fuel car over night, its the same with banshee. You will get the most out of the quad and stay out of the hospital all at the same time and not look like a dumb ass who can't handle what he/she got for a quad/power.

I had 30mm okos on my 4mil. Went to the 35pwk's, didn't notice any loss in the low and mids, did notice a gain in the upper rpm's. I run t5's, great all round dune play pipe and good for dragging with friends, not a drag pipe though. If you are not ported for all out dragging, you might hurt your self with shears in the all around performance and against the same motor with a correctly fitted pipe for the porting, carbs, gearing, ect. It would require a lot more clutching and keeping the bike in the upper rpm's just to make power to play around with. I had a bike that had t5, and then drag ported it. Switched t5's to shears and it was night and day difference, but alot more tiring to ride around and play with your buddies in small bowls or woops. Shears are great pipes for dragging. Not much time with cpi's i think they might be a compromise between t5's and shears. The 34 or 35 carbs will not hurt you at all if you have t5's, shears or any other pipe on a mildly ported 4 mil, you will only really notice a gain and not a loss if you jet it correctly. Just my personal experience.

I know fireball makes them, but i believe they are their long travel. So it will cost more for the shocks, but fireball is the manuf. of jannssens so they could get them.