KlotzBanshee

For one, don't put words in my mouth! And two un-bunch those panties a little bit. Yeah, I seen where you said you didn't own a banshee there and in some other topics, so fucking what. I never once said you were dumb when it comes to anything. But it does sound like you have a little inferiority complex going there. There is nothing wrong with scraping up a little knowledge, as you put it, but an override trany is waaaaay down the list of mods to do to a banshee. Especially when you said yourself that you don't own one or have much experience with that particular motor. Try getting used to a stock shee before building a drag shee, thats all I meant. Besides, you can find countless hours of reading on overrides by doing a simple search before making people reiterate information that has been covered many times over. Oh, and if you can't take a little constructive criticism, you don't belong on a public forum. Thank you, have a nice day.

If I am not mistaken, didn

I've said it once and I'll say it again...Klotz R50 - 32:1 :thumbsup:

Its very nice...high five (in Borat voice) :biggrin:

Shaved head => cheap and effective way to increase compression. Cool head => better coolant flow and interchangeable domes. Reed spacers and Boysen reeds => don't know never used them. Vforce 3's => Power out of a box - installs in minutes and adds power and throttle response throughout power band. :geek:

My sentiments exactly.

Never used their pipe clamps, but I have some of their other stuff and its all top notch quality. They do allot of work for the aerospace industry, so their designs and machining is very precise. Excellent material quality, fit, and finish. I would expect that their pipe clamps are no different. They are a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. :beer:

me too! Bel Ray Gear Saver SAE 80 wt :thumbsup: good shit!

I

I am actually in the process of repairing the same problem on my left side peg mounts.

Yeah, it takes a little getting used to, especially in the woods. You have to keep your elbows up, just like when riding a dirt bike. They can scare ya if you accidentally goose the throttle and you're not ready for it. And with the light switch power band of a banshee, you can end up in the trees in a second. But once you get used to the twist throttle, its no big deal. I actually prefer it. Anyways - I don't really need another twist throttle, unless its nicer than mine, then maybe I would. :shrug: But let me know what all you need - and what is worth to ya ($) :beer:

I

I've got the stock thumb throttle all the way up to the carbs including TORS and all - like new. I put a twist throttle on not long after I bought my shee new in 99. So I already have a twist, but what kind (brand) twist do you have to trade? We may be able to work something out if you're interested. let me know :beer:

This may sound dumb, but is it a possibility that you are trying to mount the pipes on the wrong sides? Left pipe on the right side and vise-versa? :shrug: ...it kinda looks like it in the one pic...

Don't do it, for one its too thick. I have a friend that used foam filter oil on his K&N in his Z400 and the thing barely ran it was so starved for air. Get the K&N oil or equivalent.:beer:

That

It'll look fine, I don't think most people would think anything of it if you didn't ask. Its only a one inch diff up front from the stock 21" and 20" in back (which is what I am currently using - ITP XCR

Freaks! :yelrotflmao:

Not I. I'm broke as fuck. And my motor is STILL in pieces. ::

To loosen it with an impact you may be able to just hold the flywheel with one hand and gun in the other? Its on there with like 50 some foot pounds of torque if I remember correctly. I'm not sure if you'll be able to hold it or not. They do make a tool (clutch/flywheel holder) like a special pair of vise-grips. I have the Motion Pro set, so thats what I use. Another way is to put your quad in first gear, roll it till it stops, have someone push your rear brake, and hit it with the impact. Use the crank to hold the flywheel. Assuming your bike is in running condition...ie: clutch is in, chain is on, tires are on, and brakes work. Hope that helps :beer: BTW - you will need and flywheel removal tool once you get the nut lose. :thumbsup: Installation is opposite of removal...but I recommend using a torque wrench to tighten to factory specs, not an impact.

Don

On a slightly different note, I

If you still have the stock parking brake setup then you may have to back out the adjusting bolt before you can push in the piston, depending on how far the adjusting bolt is set. You may want to pay an extra 10 bucks for a block off plate to eliminate the parking brake all together... and save the future head achs of the POS parking brake assembly. The mounting bracket is a floating caliper setup if the bracket is sticking out too far just push it in, you shouldn't need to touch the allen head bolts just to change pads. good luck :beer:

Why anyone would be a dick to their customers like that is beyond my understanding. Who

pics would help...got any?