KlotzBanshee

TM Design works makes it. I bought it as part or their "Slide-N-Guide" kit. It came with top and bottom "zero drag" rollers, the pivot slide and the rear swing arm guide. The Kit was $125 if I remember correctly

TM does make a chain guard or "slide" I think they call it. It doesn't seal the pivot bushing though. here's mine :beer:

+1 for the TM. :thumbsup: I believe it will take up to a 15t counter sprocket, but if you need more room you can just grind away some extra material to make it fit a 16t. I have the stock shift drum cover and it works fine with the case saver, and doesn't leak...?

I ran a +4 woodruff key for about 3 years with absolutely no problems. But...I did replace it with an adjustable timing plate during a recent rebuild. :shrug:

I know, I have a set and love to hear them scream as often as possible. :smile: I'm digging the Quad Tech seat cover. :thumbsup: How much did they hit you up for that, if you don't mind me asking?

I love my VF3's Never did anything to the stockers as far as porting or different reeds though, I just put them in the box the VForce came in and put them on a shelf. Got mine for a steal - $198 OTD - well worth it imo. :shrug:

what he said ^^^ Very strong mid-top end pipes. Very similar to T5's I'd say but with a little more top end, but not quit as much top end as CPI's. Plus as you know they're stainless, so they will look better longer. Nicks and scratches can always be rubbed and polished out, unlike chrome. They also have the best looking spark arresters out there IMO. ...and I think the stainless even gives them a distinct sound as well. :cool: Only down fall is that they're freaking expensive. btw- nice lookin bike. :beer:

There is nothing wrong with a Ricky Stator adjustable timing plate as long as its set up correctly. Turn it back to +4, +10 is too much for that bike. How is your air gap between the pick up and flywheel, it should be at about 0.020" 280 does seem lean, what pilots are in it, what are the air screws set at, whats the needle set at???? I suggest 300 or 310 mains, needles at 3rd (middle) clip, 27.5 pilots and 1.5 to 2 turns out on the air screws. Make sure they're synced and keep an eye on your plugs. If your reeds are junk it will make your motor run shitty, but it sounds like an electrical (bad spark?) or carb (lean?) issue. good luck. :beer: *ps - do you still have the stock clutch perch and parking brake assembly on? It has a rev limiter that can cause some head aches, but if thats the problem you won't be able to ride it at all.

Brand new set of ITP XCR-03

I hear thats fairly common with Shearers. Most people have to do some shimming and whatnot to get them to clear the head on the left side. And then some people get lucky and get a nice fitting set. :shrug: They will run though. Dude...Your post was tuff to read.

I had a similar prob once. On the back of the calipers piston there is a small boss that is used by the parking brake which is sealed by a small o-ring. Pull the caliper apart fallowing instructions in a Clymer manual, replace that o-ring, and problem solved. Good luck.

Ive been thinking. ...the reason I had the pipes off when I took those pics is because my idle was acting funny. After I warm it up for a few min, I would blip the throttle, and when the rpms would drop it would then come up a little (maybe 200-300rpms) like it was searching. So I thought "air leak" right? I did another leak down test and it held 6lbs for over 15 min w/o droping at all. So now Im wondering if maybe my head is leaking a small amount of coolant into the cyl and leaning it out a little. My pilot circuit also seems a little lean when I ride it(27.5 two turns out), but once I get on the pipe shee runs like a raped ape. :shrug: So what do ya think? would a small amount of coolant in one or both cyls cause this prob? Im baffled

Kaosbanshee - yes plugs look perfect - stock carbs 330 mains 27.5 pilot 3rd clip 2 turns out Well its not really galling then, I just couldn't think of any other term to describe it. Its very slight, it just barley wore away the lines left from machining in those spots. * The ports have very nice chamfers on all the edges, Jeff at FAST did them. Am I just paranoid??? :ermm: -Ryan

Oh I have been, I just don't want to melt down a new set of wisecos ya know. there is just a slight bit of galling below the rings that is the cause of my concern. I'd also like to hear what Jeff thinks about it.

BUMP All you motor gurus...give me your prognosis please. Do I have a problem or not? thx -Ryan

Right Cyl exhaust port Left Cyl exhaust port Left again (no flash) So is this just normal brake in wear? Runs great, no air leaks, 163 psi comp on both cyls. :shrug:

Wish I could make it, but its not gonna happen this time. :sad: Im broke as fuck right now.

5gal of VP C12 cost me $68 bucks from Jake's Automotive in Auburn Hills Michigan. The more you buy the cheaper it gets, 15gal drum is like $160 and so on. its expensive, but good shit. I used to run Sonoco turbo blue leaded 110 for $5.65/gal last year. :shrug:

BTW - I still have my stock head in great cond, if you want it make me an offer. :thumbsup:

it looks like they have been clean-up ported and probably bored, the reed valves are stock but the reeds are not, idk what those are. Oh, and the reed stops are missing also. The pistons don't look too bad, little worn. Those ARE Wiseco rings in them right? The bottom rings look thicker to me for some reason??? Wiscecos are usually the same thickness top and bottom, but stock rings are not. :shrug: and WOW Jrod...a little soap and water goes a long way. It hurts my eyes to see dirt and sand getting into your crank case like that. Plus the job is so much nicer when everything is somewhat clean, just my $.02

Anywhere you go these days there is always a few haters to talk shit. Fuck em...in their stupid ignorant asses. They

I think you're talking about the aluminum plugs to the shift fork rods (red arrows), Not the Shift drum cap (blue arrow)...RIGHT???

Im going to try and make it. Finally got my banshee put back together and running, but still need to do some brake-in and fine tuning. I haven

Thanks, not bad for my first time I guess. Use the finishing buffs dry (no polish). It took like 20 of them (at fuggin a buck fifty a piece) to do top, bottom, and the counter sprocket area. And try that Mothers Incredible Billit ($13 a can, but the shit is awsome), not the liquid stuff they sell for use with the Power Ball. BTW- dont forget to wear safty glasses and a dust mask, shit flies everywhere...good luck, and take your time. Any questions, hit me up. :thumbsup:

I did kind of a half-ass'd polishing job on my case while it was apart this winter. I used a dremel with the extension wand and the little 512E finishing buffs (about 20 of them) to start. Then I just used the small Mothers power ball and some Mothers Incredible Billit to bring a nice deep shine. I could have spent more time on it and got better results, but it looks ten times better than it did.