letsgetthisdone

sell your FMF pipes and get PT mids. raisew the compression to suit how much you are willing to spend on fuel (race or pump gas..), good mx port job, and a 4 mil stroker crank. the 7 mil stroker crank will be WAY expensive. The stroker crank isn't neccassary, but it will help.

No need for a new clutch. You'll be makin about 45hp. the next step would be a coolhead and porting.

ypu risk bending a shift fork when shift without the clutch. And if you back off too much or not enuf it won't pop into the next gear, and you'll lose time. I'd say use the clutch, and get some suspension before you do any motor mods..

I'll try to get my ass out there. Just need to get handlebars, steering stem, and brackets for my lights (those rain ruts come out of nowhere at ~70mph :biggrin: ). I'll let you if i'll be able to make it.

do you have adjustable a-arms? cuz if you don't, you can only adjust toe-in/out. And ackerman isn't adjustable on the banshee, just to let you know.

4* of caster

Mine works well for about 20 minutes, than it fades. It really is junk...

I have my caster set at 4* on my aftermarket a-arms, it is stable at speed and not much harder to turn than stock.... You could try shootin for that.

first, check your compression to make sure your motor will be safe on pump gas. Startt at 175 main, thats what i ran at 2,800ft, so it'l still be a little rich, do a plug chop with it and get back to us...

Looks just like mine did, except it went all the way through the piston....lol. Prolly bad gas man, cuz my jetting was good, and your piston looks like mine, except like i said, that main spot in the middle actually went through...lol

Steel front and rear is a must. Just make sure you get good steel sprockets. Like JT's or RK's, sidewinder is the best, but they are very expensive. I wore my primary drive chain and sprocket set out in less than 30 hours...so definetly stay away from them.

HOLY SHIT^^^ here's mine, although it doesn't really compare...... tha hole actually goes through, its about 1/2 an inch long and around 2mm wide...

100* is fine, 110* is pushin it, anything hotter than that and i don't ride. Than again, Las Vegas is 105-110 for about 4 months, so I kinda get used to the heat..... :shrug:

you could have bad and/or broken reeds. THat would make it very hard to start. Oryour pilot cjet is clogged. How many hours are on the top-end?

HOLY SHIT. drop that main to a 180 (if its a kiehin 35mm PWK) and see what it does. If you haven't done the new topend yet, you need to do it.

If you tale off the airbox lid you need to buy a pro-design proflow kit. The lid holds on the stock filter. And you will have to rejet.

Nonetheless, something went BOOM

hmmm, you could've broken a reed petal. Just somethin easy to check before you tear it all the way down.

your ring gap should be .012. Are you squaring the ring in the bore by pusing 'em down with the piston. I line up the lower ring groove on the piston with the mating surface of the cylinder to make sure the ring is level in the bore. If that doesn't help, take them back to shop and tell them to measure piston and cylinder. If they bored ot too big tell them they are buying you a new piston kit and reboring the cylinders to the new pistons(for free). And get wiseco pistons next time.

Well, you just may need a lock-up.

Yes and no, I've called them a few times to get help with my single carb kit i bought from them, lets just say they were very unhelpful. They tryed to tell me i should be running a dual carb setup with the porting i have (when they didn't even do my porting), when that wasn't even my question. And then they didn't want to tell me the float height for the carburetor cuz "it wasn't goin to run rght anyways". Oh yaeh, and apparently my T5's are holding back my motor compared to thier stage4 pipes, according to trinity, and again, they didn't even do my motor work. That is why i don't llike trinity. Back to your bike.... The symptoms you are describing sounds like a TORS problem, maybe. Underneath the gas tank towards the front of the bike and on the left is a little black box (its directly across from the coil), unplug it from the wring harness and see what happens. If youre motor comes back to life that was the problem. If thats not it, do a search for leak down test and look for RNBRAD's write-up on it, It shows you what to buy and how to set it up and do the test. For the compression test , you are going to have to go out and buy a snap-on or matco tester kit, it'll come with a gauge and a few adapters to thread into the sparkplug hole. When you do the test, have both sparkplugs out (compression tester needs to be in one of the cylinders), hold the throttle wide open and kick the shit out of it until the guage stops movin. If your topend is in good shape and you have a stock cylinder head that isn't milled your compression should be 120-130psi if you are at or close to sea level Go out and buy a clymer manual and you'll be able to work on your bike yourself. You'll find that its really not all that hard.

DON"T TAKE IT TO TRINTIY!!!! trinity sux balls, i can't beleive they didn't try to sell you have of thier business the last time you were there. As for it bein boggy, do a leak down test, compression test, and make sure it is gettin stong spark....even if it comes back to life after the carb get cleaned up, i'd still do a leak down test and a compression test.

Sorry to tell ya, but you have to split the cases to change that seal.

if you want to take the lid off the airbox you will have to buy the pro-design proflow kit. The airbox lid holds the stock fitler on. And yes, you will have to rejet. My suggestion:get pipes, TORS removal kit, and clampon filters. rejetting will be neccasary for everything accept removing the TORS.

sounds like you got some money so..... lonestar: www.lsracing.com google jannsen racing, i can never remember how to spell it, try laeger too