Cyan

Hey guys just thoguth i'd get all your opinions on which is the best gear material? and also best chain? i'm looking at getting a DID Gold x-ring with steel front and rear sprokets? yes, no. Good, or wood thanks in advance Sean

what does it mean if once my idle screw is touching i can only go half a turn b4 it bottoms out?, time for new idle screws?, if so where do i get em? thanks for the help Sean

assuming my carb balance is off and that is why my right cyl won't idle right. What is the best way to adjust the carbs to ge ta good base setting so you can do a plug chop and not mess anything up in the process. I know with automotive carbs most have a base spot as in turn pilot all the way in then back out 3/4 turns or so on. anyhting like this i can do or should i just let her run and adjust it by ear? Thanks again Sean

My elevation In my drive way where i was breaking it in and running it is 357 Ft above sea level. where i go ridding around here fluctuates around 1000-1200 ft above sea level. You might be right about carb balance, for some reason i can set up a holley but i can't get the dam hang of these little carbs, maybe because i havn't been shown how? not sure i've read the carb threads but really with out pics i'm lost lol

I ordered 21 cc domes but these had a 19 stamped on them so i assuming there 19 cc ? Also i'm still in the process of breaking it in, On 94octain pump gas once i'm done the initial process i'm gonna recheck comp and see if i need to run higher or not. wich is crappy cause 110 oct is 70$(can) a 5 gallon pale around here

right now i'm running preaty much stock minus a pro design cool head with 19 cc domes, ( i was suposed to be sent 21cc's but i just want to ride lol), and a wisco pro lite piston set .5 mm over, looking at getting T6's and some either Vforce 2's and boysen's not sure on those yet. Just letting her cool down now she seemed to start to idle a little better near the end of the heat cycle and was firing on both cyls

yup everything is hooked up i had spark and 110 comp without seating yet. i've been letting it idle and it seems to be comming alive?, should i let it heat right up then cool off and finish the heat cycle for break in?

Hey guys i just finished putting to gether my fresh top end and now i have the right side not firing is this normal? does it need to seat more?? and should i just let it idle or try to bring up the rpm to get it to seat?? thank you all Sean

Thanks

Hey all I was just wondering if anyone knew of a place where i could get a new head stud and nut kit for a pro design head? Thanks Sean

thanks for all the replys!! :biggrin: Sorry to see we share the pain kermit. I think i'm gonna go wiesco, thats what i run in my street car. and most likely oem top end gaskets ect. or do you think i should go aftermarket for head?, i'll post pics tomorrow of the dmg to the pistons and head. another Q i had is i heard you can tell how the bike was running from the look of the top of the piston, if true whats it mean when the whole top of the piston is Black/sooty, rich? thanks again Sean

Hey guys First post here and ironicly it's about a blown motor . Not a happy day for what was suposed to be the last ride of the season. Anyways i've never rebuilt a banshee motor before ( i am a lincesed mechanic ), but i have rebuilt all kinds of Gm's lol. So here is my question, i pulled off the head(stock) and heres what i see little chunks of soft metal in the tops of the right piston (rings?). the head is also bashed in a little from these peices. I guess what i'm asking is whats the safest bet to go about rebuilding, as in new pistons, rings, head?, Cyls?, ect.. thanks for any advice Sean