Snopczynski

spray some starting fluid or brake cleaner up through the carbs towards the pistons and then see if it will light off. Let us know what happens. Dont worry about a leak down test yet, you just need to know the 3 basics right now. Compression, Spark, fuel! If you spray carb clean up there and it doesn't light off, then you need to check compression. If the compression is ok then check to see if the flywheel is installed right, or if the flywheel key is sheared.

What do you mean by "Act Up"?

The only real common problem that can cause this is broken clutch springs. Otherwise its normal with a bike that has formulated gear oil in it. My bike did it with a stock clutch and the o-rings removed with ebc springs, I had 85w maxima mtl in the trans. It still does it now with a cascade heavy duty clutch also. Its normal, the oil runs off the plates and the frictions and it grabs until the clutch pack soaks up some oil again.

Mark down 4 more lucky ones on the RS200w stator. We have 4 banshees with the RS unit in them and never had an issue with the stator being bad or causing issues.

I have had dual 28's, stock carbs and now my 2into 1 with the pwk 35mm carb. Honestly in all my play riding and the occasional drag racing runs at Sandfest and up the drag hill I noticed no difference between having 28mm carbs and the single carb. Obviously both setups were better than stock though. We have a few guys in the group that run single 35mm pwk on a 4mill, 36mm lectron on 4 mill, and a 38mm lectron on a 6 mill. They all like the setup alot. As for my reed spacers I did it to clear my clutch arm a little more so I could tilt the carb sideways in the bike and change the main jet out in the pwk. Technically that trinity intake is very short and could possibly benefit from being spaced out a little. I have no clue if there was a gain cause I put the spacers on at the same time that I put in my carbon tech reed petals on, and I know I got a gain, but dont know which made more of a difference.

Its probably not boiling, cause if it was, then it should be running out everyhwere. Its normal for the coolant to get pushed out into the overflow and then sucked back in as it cools down. You will hear this happening. If you have your mind made up that its overheating then replace your radiator since you know its bent. Always do the obvious repairs first. Just to let you know, my old banshee had a bent radiator and it never overheated.

5 gal gas to 16 oz's pf oil is 40:1

Unless you have an egt gauge, noticed discoloring of the head or cylinders, or have a water temp gauge there isn't really anyway for us to determine if its actually oveheating based on what you told us. A decent running engine will make egt temps of up to 1250 degrees, so 650 degree paint aint gonna cut it. You need to use high heat exhaust paint or have the pipes ceramic coated.

The tors is an anti-throttle stick device thats a piece of crap and causes more headaches than good. I have seen a park brake switch go bad on a newer bike. Usually it happens after the handlebars have sustained a hit or the clutch lever area has sustained some extreme abuse.

I just remembered the K&T frame was an LSR frame, only they were called JP Racing back then.

Sounds like either the park brake switch is going bad, the tors are acting up and malfunctioning, or your float level is too low.

Ummmmm, you can't adjust camber on a banshee. You can only adjust toe. If the tires are cambered you have something bent or the a-arm bushings or ball joints are worn.

Thats why he is having an external oil pump cnc'ed to feed the turbo with probably a dry sump resevoir.

Post a link to that megamanual of the efi website. I couldn't find it. These guys have to be the smartest people in the world for running a 2 into 1 pipe. :biggrin:

Well good thing none of you dont have that drilled frame then. I have seen that K&T bike go down the track, its fast. How do you guys know that frame isnt chromoly or something. My guess is that it is, and if it is, then its way stronger and lighter than the stock frame. Most of the frame tubes in that picture look like they have been replaced. We only run a .125" set of wheels in the sand and never had issues, I was railing on the whoop road and Jumping at Coos Bay last weekend too. I think theres about 14 Banshees in our group that run em.

Check the flywheel pickup and make sure it is not damaged or has been rubbing on the flywheel magnets. They usually rub and heat up then go bad. If it looks ok and ohms ok with a meter, I would start leaning towards a bad stator and check that with the meter.

I built a bead blaster cause I used to have to bead up 25" tires on my Rhino. You can take em to Les Schwab, they should have a blaster.

Holy crap dude, that 15 tooth sprocket is killing you. Those pipes dont make great bottom end power either. Jetting wise if its non responsive up to 1/8 throttle then the pilots are lean. If it burbles up to 1/8 throttle and smokes a ton at idle then they are rich.

You guys can bag on it all you want, but K&T does that. Last one I saw was at Sandfest in 1993. They had a 460cc alky bike that weighed 180 lbs. It smoked JD Racings 535cc jdss super sleeve bike. Anything to save weight while going in a straight line.

If you got money you can do anything. I know a guy that could do it. Your gonna need to run a battery, possibly a bigger stator and a rectifier also.

I dont see how it can make 160 hp with stock casted cylinders. I dont see how they can move enough air and fuel to accomodate that kind of horsepower.

The two stroke motor has one huge inherent nemesis when making power.......HEAT! The more there is of it over 1250 degrees, the less better it runs. The only way I would run a Turbo on any quad is with a dry ice intercooler and it would only be a drag QUAD.

That extra wire (green/yellow) is the emergency brake rev limiter. I believe it needs to be grounded to run right.

Bingo. The less volume in the tube or even the extension for that matter is going to make the reading more accurate.

If you seize the motor or something goes through the nikasil bore and leaves a gouge in the sleeve then its done and needs resleeved. Basically as Ski doo told us that nikasil is a lot like a chrome plating on the sleeve.