JET 99

lol dont get a drill press from harbor salvage...................................... the reamer yes but unless you want to throw away the press after you use it..... i hate to say it but at work i get off on burning up the shit my work buys if and when they get stuff from HARBOR SALVAGE............................ corded 3/8 1/2 chuck drills, 4 1/2 inch angle grinders :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

not sure about size.............. your fit would be alot better if.... use a tapered high speed steel reamer in a good v/speed corded/18vlt drill and a vise.......... grinding or whittiling away the i.d. will give you a real shitty contact surface....... i dont care how steady you are. your angle and dia.. will be screwed it may not show up at first but i guarantee after a while your spindle/ball joint will start to get sloppy........ just something to think about????????????? :beer:

billy beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer:

what he said

adding a stroker will change port timing????????????????????????????????

dude i have a 15 year old and a 3wheeled 250r ....................wtf??????????????????????? i love my kid to much what are you smoking or are you just a f____ (dee de deeeeeeee) my kid rides a 250 timberwolf when he is on his own he rides my banshee supervised by (me).... i cant stop him from being a dumbass but my presence and him helping me work on it keeps his judgment inline... by the way guys the fastestshee is :shoothead: :shoothead: NIGHT :shoothead: :shoothead: how can we forget you jackass..........................................

those small overseas atvs(chinese??) you cannot get parts for.............. if he is going to drop some money atleast make sure you can fix it............... the big ones yam,hond,kawi,suz,polar, you get the idea ...... all can get parts for, but some still easier and cheaper than others :beer:

228 lbs ????????????????????? what kinda top secret carbon fiber parts are you running? frame suspension ceramic engine parts try around 400 lbs thats without rider..................... good luck i aint gonna fling ya too much........... its a hell of stretch but things happen when you drag........... bad start miss shift break tire loose in shift

maybe he could hook up with old boy and his 20in rims, go like a hudred miles ah hour to his buddys so they could play PS2........ im sure he could tell you how to beat a r6 rocket :beer:

damn we got some homo-phobes or what????????????????????? i wasnt expecting it but damn dude, i dont think it rated the "N" word............... ever watch jackass.................... they push the limit with some of that shi.. but it still funny :beer: :beer: lighten up alittle ever watch carlos mencia life if f....... up enough as it is make fun of it you can, cause if you look from a diffrent perspective it is a trip........

im saying its normal. elka even designs shocks with built in sag lower ride height equal better handling not so top heavy.... :beer:

they make id micrometers that work just like od mics.. you twist the handle till it snugs up in the centerline of bore then read the scribed markings on the handle you just need to make sure your ends are within the range of your stroke technology has improved over time the best reading is with a dial bore and a set ring for your master... other than a machine shop not to many have one laying around :beer:

with laeger lts+2+1s and elkas3-rate, how much better would a noss stabilizer calm the front end? my motor is outta the frame. kinda been pondering on one. i dont need to go overkill (scott or elka) just been thinking with to much free time (no motor) would it be worth the little extra cash to refine the front end????????????

i second loboboy :beer: :thumbsup: excuse me third loboboy

a lowering kit is designed for flat track and tt racing................... elka shocks have a (system) which alows the shock to sag but not take away suspension travel its soft on intial start and firms up twards bottom of stroke. thats what the ad says i have them w trip/rate springs and pig/back ressies if you jump at all those brackets could start cracking and next jump you have no suspension...... if you want to play with ride height tires and shocks my 2 cents :beer:

+2+1 arms will really increase stabilty of front end. if your going for elkas, the difference on stock vs +2+1 arms should a no brainer.... i have (powdercoated)blue laeger lt +2+1 the tie rods are chrome........ roll design lobo arms are pretty sweet ........ i would seriously consider an upgrade if your taking your stock ones off :beer:

if you want the best i suggest talking to the motor builders.. the owners give you their opinons and experience, but the builders stake their business on it...... thats how they got in buisness ..................... what type of riding where (elevation) rider weight gearing type of tire size of tire pump gas race gas swing arm length timing advance porting pipes main power adders off the bat :beer:

tomorrow i will celebrate my first b-day as a hq member............ a few more years maybe i will loose my virginity :beer: :beer:

it will rack your wallet if you aint careful :beer: :beer:

just curious if you go thru hassel of taking off why not upgrade.. even if you dont go crazy with $$$$$ an upgrade would be worth looking into? are you wanting stock width for a reason? tight trails and such ?

they may do what they say but does it add HP most say no does it take up space all agree yes can it create a major problem yes all agree enough said :: :: :: :: ::

im inviting that brother to thanksgiving.............. i know that mother f...er can carve up some white meat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

loose the boost bottle and you might have more people interested :beer:

i am not being an ass but wrong post catagory also if you learn to do a search there are quite a few threads on 2-1 set ups dmcbanshee has one and likes it there are several guys in here that ride trail and mx that use them seek and ye shall find grasshopper :beer:

no b.s. i learned from a loctite rep....... they also sell an activator that you dont have to use on mild steel, but if you are useing on dissimaller material like alumn. to steel, stainless to alumn., hardened steels, no bull........ it cures faster, has more complete coverage and has stronger bond. i put on a new lsr axle used old sprocket hub .........mistake i could see wear on female spline of i.d. on the hub. thought no big deal... a couple of rides around neighborhood started front to rear play between axle and hub. bought new hub hoping to save new axle used loctite cylinderical bonding (green) activator. put together let sit overnight .............. no play has started and its been dogged for a full year worth of riding :beer: i forgot to say about whats called a thread cert... (kinda like a helicoil but stronger) not sure on size of stud i think 10mm x1.5 pitch i maybe wrong but anyhow figure it out i think a 10mm is a size 12mm on the o.d. they also sell the tap for it, the idea is it is threaded on o.d. to the 12mm and the i.d. is threaded for your stud it is solid not like a spring(helicoil)....... they have different sizes available