JET 99

thanks for the suggestion? wow what a clusterfuck? I called them they said yes uses the stock hard wear to mount arms! OK well you just jam a flat tip screwdriver on the 17mm nut laeger said F@#$ that used your suggestion.but it only gets better.The stock bolt is only thru about 3 treads,no washers. not good rips thread out of nut when tigtening. MOTHER @#$% find a longer bolt go to local fastner supply SHCS not long enough in 10mm,what else ya got??????? well guess what a 17mm hardened hex head great length but what 17mm,f-ed again but I can weld so I have a 14mm nut welded on the head of the 17mm bolt,length is good used your idea on the lug nut, ond holy sh8t shee is finally got some new front legs on her. if your curious I preheated bolt to 200 F. had gmaw .035dia ER 70-3 85-15%co2 19 vlts and 350 IPM. right down thru the center of nut and filled the I.D. about 3/4 the way up the nut. worked out sweet sorry bout the long reply!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jim

I dont want ya to think is was bitchin they do sell stuff to pour in the mix on flea bay but i dont know what it does if anything to the carb or cyl shuch as build up varnish or octane level. mine smokes just like you said when it is cold. check level of coolant in the radiatorbefore and after riding. let it cool down of course. leaking gasket aint good on it. Jim

there is always a price to pay for your pleasures. whether its worth it or not thats up to the individual. if you dont like the smell oyu could trade for a 4 poke. but no PWR band damn cant have everything Jim

well I have installed the bearing kits on the a arms it wnet without any major f--- ups. the spindle assy went into the ball joints no problem. getting new shock bolts and nuts tomorrow. its hard to believe that laeger sells a dsign were you must jam a flat tip screwdriver between the flat on the nut and the ID of the a arm shock mount tube but thats what they recomended WTF? we shall see tomorrow................... Jim

Well I answered my own question! I called laeger and for long travel shocks you have to jam a flat head screwdriver down into the tube where the shock attaches to the a arm between the top of the nutand wall of the tube to wedge it while you tighten the bolt. the bolt is a 14mm head and the socket barely fits! the nut is a 17mm socketand aint no way in hell not even turning the wall of the socket will it fit. That is pretty PISS POOR ENGINEERING IMO. especially the money invloved. it does work but F#$%ED UP. just thought I let ya all know if some ones thinking laeger. Jim

I have a slight problem the bolt has a 14mm head thats OK.The nut takes a 17mm socket/wrench thus the problem.On the lower a arm one side of the tube where the bolt goes thru the arm and the shock bushing barely let a 14mm socket go into it let alone a 17mm socket.So I must assume the stock bolts arent gonna get it!!!!! By the way these are long travel not stock. I looked on laegers website no luck there so what do I do??????????????????? the only diff between front and back of arm is how long the the tube where the bolt goes in at is ones about 3in. the other side is about 4 in. I know the dia of the bolt shaft is important HELP,HELP,!!!!!!!! Jim(JET 99)

dont your bro know about the stinky pnky test. maybe you ought to be a good friend and turn him onto femine hygine products that way you dont have to smell that smell oooooh that smell cant ya smell that smell!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JET 99

so what did you think of it out there? I have only been out there once about 4 yrs ago on an lt 230 it was a pos.been working on a 99 shee for about 6 months probably be there in the spring and to the badlands in western indiana

how often do you travel to ride?

Have you checked to make sure ther is no play in the bushings, upper or lower, what about tie rod ends inner and outer. Next you may need to play with camber adjustments there are a few post in here dealing with it you will just have to use the search funct. to find. that would be a good start........................

I ordered the set from UPP swing arm guide is 10 times the factory set up. You might think about duing some maint on your swing arm bearings while your there. Just a thought. Your right there when you swap that guide!

Just curious has anyone else tried ceramic coating their exhaust? I am not one to spit and polish all weekend, but if I am gonna do something to it, I want it to be worth it!!!!!!!!! anyones input would be helpful. I have used the search but did not find any topics that focus on it Thanks

mines it the garage on the stand waiting for parts to show up for a arm install

thanx to those who have welcomed me into the ranks as to the grasshopper you are most honorable allknowing for i am at the mercy if knowledge and wisdom shhhhaaaazzzzzzmmm straight up cuz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I cant help on any info on it but I am on the sw side of indy and can only wish they had a flat track to run on!!!!

NOT at all I have been pondering what kind of finish would hold up?I worked at S&S cycle for a while doing cnc machine repair. but the are not worried about the abrasive effect of sand mud dirt blasted across the pipes at full op temp.I dont see to many chops or baggers out in the badlands!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bought a 99 for 2k about six moths ago.It isn't in bad shape just not much has been replaced since it was new but since it is mine it has an lsr axle,pivot works carrier bearings, T5's, msr bars body skid, rear skid, dg front bump, K&N, pro flow impellar, ITP slots, holeshots I have all ready got them waiting on shocks, pivot works bushing kits,tie rod ends,but I do all ready have the arms. I bought the long travel kit with elka piggy back ressies for 235lbs rider mx/tt valving just trying to get it mechanically solid and a twisted ride .thanks for the input!

Searched through older topics havent seen much in here on them, just curious about how the hold up and if anyone has seat time running them. gonna be putting them on mine once all the bushings, tie rod ends, shocks, and other pay check crushing s@#$ comes in.... just curious

I forgot to include that I sandblasted them before I used the Hi Temp paint(header paint). Looked great until I rode it a few times and the paint bubbled up and started flaking off around the pipes down by the head!

Need a little input to help me decide which way to go, I have sandblasted them and painted with 1500deg. paint but that aint sticking down on the neck of the pipe by the heads. I work at a machine shop so i could use our plater and either chrome, black oxide. I know chrome holds the heat more is that a possible issue,I aint worried which looks better which works better as a finsh, not much sand where I ride dirt and corn where I am at.

The whiskey locker is a bad place for anyone to end up atleast used to be! LOL

What about the muffler bearing grease ?????? If you lock up the bearing your canooter valve might stick then you do not need to worry about the crank case oil. Plus greasing your brake disk adds years of life to the pads DUHHHHHHH!

Will be recieving a set of ext travel laegers and in a couple of weeks some elka triple rates with res. would like any info or tricks when installing said items? Caster camber any odd geometries that might be issues.

HOLY $#!% Sweet ride! I have only had this one for 8 months. You pushed the limit on price vs end product. May you be worshiped for the effort. You are blessed with a SICK ASS ride.............

I have been spying on the HQ for a time. There seems to be quite a bit of practical knowledge in here!!