JET 99

one of the stoppers for this is a differental. i am pretty sure that a solid axle is not to be used on-highway. i thought i read that somewhere. on the flip side the newer 4x4s w/diffs could possibly be used if big brother would let us. man that would cool....... dont know if i could get to work if i rode my shee. i think temptation would get the best of me. :beer:

never thought id vote for a zoomie!!!!!!!! semper fi from a jar head...... :beer:

welcome to the HQ!!!!!!!!! and if you just got your banshee .................... welcome to your new addiction************** :beer:

got a proflow billet impeller in already. like i said im just trying to get feedback on other peoples experiences with radiators ....... i was on here about a year and after many hours reading threads i chose jeff at fast to redo my motor when it was time. i ve done the front end, front & rear brakes, bearings in a arm and swinger,bearings in carrier, rear axle,sprocket hub, axle locknut, T-5s, motor is in process as we speak. on tap, maybe rear shock, aftermarket swinger, 4.0 or 5.6 gal tank, +2 sterring stem, poss????????????? its an addiction LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :beer:

running t-5s. do the same type riding as you and love them.................. you will hear fmf gnarlys and the list goes on and............... stay away from drag pipes would be my only useful suggestion!!!!!!!!!!!!

thats more what im after. i have my motor out right now. i was just curious about others experience with aftermarket radiators. do they make that much difference cooling a motor versus the price ??? once i put the rebuilt motor in i will see where im at. i never had an issue with the stock one. i try to keep the fins in line its a (99) so it is a little ruff, but it dont leak.

jeff at fast has my motor right now. it is being gone thru with the intent of a woods motor.( see the post SHEE is NAKED in general. i know about engine ice. i just wanted feed back on aftermarket radiators ............ the good the bad the POS.......... stories. we will see where this thread goes....

have noy seen to many posts on the subject?

when you are putting new brake lines on 1.take cap or cover off. 2. hook your lines up to the to the resevoir. 3. fill it and let gravity start working. 4. start putting your pads and caliper assy back on( both sides). in the middle of doing that check your resevoir(fill if needed). 5. once calipers back on should see some fluid coming out of lines. 6. hook lines up to calipers. 7. crack open bleeder valve. 8. squeeze or push brake lever(do not let off). 9. tighten bleeder valve. 10. release lever. repeat process on one side until all air has quit spitting out bleeder valve. plan on using alot off brake fluid!!!! it dosent hurt to flush the system. then switch over to other caliper. remember to keep an eye on the resevior dont let it run low your you just screwed yourself. hope that helps next time yor doing brakes :beer:

why doesnt everyone build top fuel drag cylinders im sure there is money in it! why do some work with hi explosives? why do some drive heavy equipment? hell its got a steering wheel and pedals. do you go out and play with the transformer out on the telephone pole? it is just a few wires..... i m not picking a fight but i hope you get what i am saying.... in work on machinery lathes, machining centers, grinders, and gmaw weld. (machine repair at a machine shop).. I have access to enough machines to probably make an engine, but they run production and i dont have all the fixture and jigs, the knowledge, practical experience, or desire by an old set of cylinders and port those. play with some stufff you dont need....ie a good set of cylds. keep the ones you got on your motor on your motor until you think you have a set that will work good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what is your compression reading. i assume pretty high are you running 110 or pump gas ? alot depends on how well you have dialed everything in. the only true way to find out would be dyno somewhere close to your elevation. i would guess you should be in the 60-low 70 hp taking a swag at it ! :beer:

i am basically in the same type of terrain, right now my motor is being rebuilt by jeff at fast. i talked to him about a what a good set up would be. upping your compression will help bottom end a little running an adv timing plate will help bottom a little, having him do woods port help bottom end alot. reeds will help some too. you can do a little and get alittle or you can do alot and get alot. you can do it a little at a time, or start saving $$$$$$$$ and do it all as one big upgrade, i figure it was better to let a professional, whose been there done that put a package together. than me pick and choose what i think will work and find out after i drain the piggy bank that the stuff i put together dont quite jive with each other. you can bet when i get my motor back from jeff the thing will haul balls. :beer:

been putting some hours at work.... should be a good reward to myself. + i dont have to answer to an old lady..... after the first one, its been 6 years of freedom. i hate to say it but after a couple years i got used to flying solo and i aint planning on changing that.. so it is pretty easy for my to do the things i want.... (lucky bass-turd) lol jim

the winter is still a good time to ride, just bundle up and give em hell. i love to play when its shitty out. no one is really outside in the neighborhood, so its nice just to be able to come out of the garage, hit the street and go at it. in the summer i only get it out 1 time a week so i dont piss anyone off.(around the neighborhood). i dont go apeshit with it until i get out into the back were there are no houses built. i guess i dont see why you stop riding it in the winter. to each there own.. :beer: jim

well here is the list of upgrades, woods port, case port,new crank bearings true & weld, noss head w/ 20 domes, v force reeds& cage, intakes, shift star mod, spring and shaft, .020 bore, pistons & rings, jeffs clutch assy, 33 pwk's, upp boots for air box, 200w stator & adj timing plate, and of course seals. it should be a kick ass motor for playing around on in indiana. Jeff is one hell of a guy to talk to and deal with!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would recommend anyone to atleast talk to him if they are thinking of tweakin a shee motor :beer: jim

impact driver= that is the key to stuck screws....... after you have used it no more :: jim

i sent my motor to him last week, and he let me know he rcvd and will check it in monday!!! :thumbsup: i ve been plannig this for awhile so its real cool for it the project to start. I just want a real good reliable motor, with some of jeff little tricks, i want to keep the case covers as they are, kinda keep it a sleeper . black anodized noss head. stock black cyl. prob 33 carbs poss new crank, shft mod, fast clutch setup...... we will see if the pay check mcan keep up with the dream!!! :beer: jim

i am almost positive if you run .060 that will mean 110 gas. hi compression equals aleast a little more heat in cylinder. if you get a low compression reading with a 060 shave something else is wrong. that is what i was saying about your rings and stuff--- there are some threads about head mods and effects on compression just do several searches.......

if your curious ask the man himself.......... if you click on his name ..... he has time and number for business calls.. i will find out myself in a month or so....... :beer: :beer:

no actually woods port, his clutch setup, a tear down and once thats done see what he recommends. it all depends on what jeff says shee needs versus what I want which = pay jeff<what cash flow is = 2 if I could I would have 3 or 4 motors all diffrent setups at jeffs I want a good strong trail,play,drag someone for fun where i ride. nothing balls out yet. just putting good money into the shee for a reliable fun play bike for the areas i ride. :beer:

it sucks looking at a frame on wheels in the garage, but on the flip side the payback will be a kick ass ride when jeff gets done doing his magic to the motor. nothing real extreme on tap. it cracked a smile before :smile: , cant wait to feel the pucker factor :ohmy: after jeff is done and I put it back in the frame!!!!!!!!!!!!

before you run it put it on and check your compression. that is the only way to truely find out if you need to run race-gas. with 60 milled off you should be at a high enough compression to cause detination (which kills a motor) or your rings and cyl walls are ineed of attention. :: just curious if your going hi comp. on engine, have you thought of cooling mods??????????????? my $0.2

Has the compression been checked, what is it? what do the spark plugs look like, is one fowled more than the other. have you tried swapping spark plug wires to see if it changes sides. sounds like either spark or carb issue....ie reeds ok? carbs synced? plugs? spark? just a couple of ideas let us know what you find Jim

upp has a complete slide and roller kit. it looks totalyy diffrent than the stock ring. upp replaces w/ a piece that that goes over where ring is locatedand has a flat groove that rides down the top face of the swigger for about 4-5 in. i could take apic of mine and post it if you really cant fig out what it is