JET 99

porting, reeds, carbs, clutch, billet impeller,t & weld crank, shift mod, suspension, swinger, axle, a-arms, oh yeah tires, chain & sprockets, stator, lighting, rims, gusset frame, mod wiring harness, coil & wires, radiator, uhhhhhhhh oh yeah and internal x-over intake loose the boost bong it aint worth the risk of cracking your boots.. welcome to the sickness :woot: :beer:

as for breaking ball joint loose back castle nut off except last few threads. use aluminum or brass bar and a BFH...... might soak it down with pblaster penitrating oil around spindle day before the big wack. should pop rite off............ :beer:

use b8es or br8es there should be no call or reason for a higher heat range plug.. your are changing the syptom by doing that... we need you to diagnose the problem by figuring out the actual cause not modify to get around the prob. your motor wont last and you will be pissed>>>>>>>>> :shoothead: good luck on it,jim

slides in correct? jets and needles in and seated correctly? do you actually have fuel in the bowls? did you have reeds and intakes out? both lines feeding carbs have gas? ?????????????? go back thru and check everything you did. have a buddy check (sometimes you miss it once check and miss it again).. if it ran before you cleaned carbs...... chances are you dont quite have something right!!!!!!!! just speaking from experience my.02 pennies :beer:

what he said!!!!!!!! welcome to the hq :beer:

i have a fresh built motor with a .020 bore,t&wed stock stroke, cyl. and case ported, 20cc dome, 33pwk, v3's, +4 timing ...... i have some mods on suspension too.. dude unless you want to drag or play in the dunes you are talking a motor w at least a +4 swinger which wouldnt be so hot in the woods or tight trails.. if your cylinders are ported and you do the standard mods you will have more than you need on a stock swinger....

the kill switch with tether inserted is an open circuit.. when the tether is pulled out it closes the circuit... with one wire to electrical ground and the other routed how ever you installed... i went into the kill switch wiring on the light and k/s handlebar assy. when the switch closes it completes the kill switch circuit and grounds out.. eiter wire could be disconnected or a sh... connection is my guess

these are +2+1... got them 3 yrs ago.. :beer: no spindle reaming to install.

i know jeff is back logged but just to his credit.. i had him build me a low end (as he put it)"....power everywhere..." motor stock stroke,.020 cleanup,noss w 20's,port cyl& case,+4 timing,shift shaft mod,heavy clutch,t&w crank,v3's,33 pwk's,billet internal x-over intake.. 93 octane and it is wicked as hell for a play & trail bike... it aint a dragger or duner... but it will hold its own.. all i can say is it was well worth the wait :beer:

hope you keep makin progress and glad things went well... physical therapy(p.t.)is just a nice way of saying pain and torture.... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: but end result the more effort you put in the better the result of p.t.

was just teasin had a few crown & cokes and feeling a little smartass!!!!!!!!! welcome to the wonderful world of the shee.......... just remember as you build one thing directly effects another.. so try and plan your build up with a type of goal.. ie trail (mx) dune or drag :beer:

i havent had to use mine, but when i upgraded the motor and it was all tore down over this last winter. i installed it into my killswitch circuit. while the clip is inserted it keeps circuit open, it pulls out the switch closes no more ignition motor dies. no chasing quad. in gear dead motor no 50 yrd roll offs. most tracks dirt or asphalt require you to have one... :beer:

you might want to get his opinoin on the phasing of the throckmorton valve versus the discombobulator bearings which has a direct effect on the antigravitron flux field induction diode in your syncronizer :beer:

were you pulling stuck grass out of the side discharge chute? i had a buddy do that years ago and his shit looked just like yours! i figured after looking at it maybe shutting the mower off would be better than stubby fingers. kinda hard to grab clutch or brake handle with nubs.plus its harder to pick your nose!!!!!!!!!! glad it is still there(your finger) :biggrin:

here it is... yes it is nice too... :beer:

it shouldnt hurt a thing.... not being an ass but thats more of a jetting /repair type subject.. so to get your question answered by more people... post in correct forum.... and if you do a search you can find all kinda posts on mix oils.. that is one of the cool things on here.. the info that is archived in the bhq.. probably your question has already been answered several times over. maybe you will find you want to run something else. welcome to the hq :beer:

the news sucks................................................... local national worldwide there is a friggin lunatic somewhere/everywhere people in the middle-east blowin their own shit up in the name of alah!!!!! (just so long as they take a few innocent people with em) but lately you here a five minute speech and a death toll (of our troops)for the day. f... cnn f... nbc f... cbs. remeber the day when there were only 3-4 vhf channels and uhf the channels would go off the air.. national anthem.. this concludes our daily broadcast.... the test tone screen...... and then the tv people came on ....(static screen) now days the news pops up everywhere... your computer, your tv,some cellphones,signs on the interstate,radio.. one thing bad about information tech. is it speed up access to everything everywhere. im done bitching and my heart goes out to all that lost loved ones :sweat:

:beer: :beer: semper fi leatherneck!!!!! 89-94 2nd maw macg28 3rd laam bn hawk maint. hollywood marine ooohhh raaahh................ sorry didnt mean to smash thread...... just had a moment

here is my 33 pwk k&ns..... t-5s,cascade heat wraps,outerwares..

yeah what he said....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ i got one in mine and its because of how it spreads the load and basically allows chain to feed through without wadding up....

i tend to check my s... before i ride.... ie chain tension,look over suspension(cotter pins,bolts/nuts) missing stuff like carrier adj bolts. but i bought the tm designworks. havent thrown a chain either. i like the way it fills the complete area where the chain can get bunched.... i havent had to use it, but my case aint broke either. i wannna keep it that way. :beer:

noss head is about $240.00 US i think $235.00 actually from a builder whos banner is on top of some of the forum pages.(i dont want to start a builder pissin match on your thread) :beer: . its a good head... has interchangable domes.. dont go wild on compression yet. you still have a stock crankshaft. needs to be trued and welded if you start running hi compression.. but with the interchangable domes later if you go further with your mods. you can change domes and not get a whole new head...

just funnin!!!! if you truely want to build your banshee.. spend about 200 hrs just reading the forums.. you may think f-that, but with the information you can learn on here. you will be able to make the correct choices when you start modding. alot of people on here have tried so many different things on here engine builders,bike builders,teen-agers,race team employees,engineers, rocket scientest,fry flingers,electricians,teamsters,farmers,red necks, mobsters,famous people......(you get it rite?) and most of them take this site seriously and post good info on what work and what dont.................... so welcome to the hq and hope you learn alot about your shee.......... :beer:

what kinda lift and duration are you thinking bout. i heard that the rocker arms are bitch to adjust in the heads if you go to extreme... :beer: