Fireroad Express

looking for stock CDI module for banshee.

DMC 916s -> http://s235.photobucket.com/albums/ee158/p...ginepics049.flv

34 mm mikuni TM flatslides and still plenty of bottom end. +4 stroker and port work.

thanks for the reply. i'm really looking forward to watching these races. I'll have a twelve pack waiting in the fridge for that one!

thanks! :cool:

a buddy brought back a few dishnet receivers last week. i'm interested in watching some GNCC races. if anyone knows when they are on, please let me know when and what station. Thanks in advance! :beer:

heres a pic of my ASR +3+1 s . the upper looks backwards and may very well be, but i had clearance probs with the shocks when the uppers were switched. be nice if they sent instructions with these.hopefully thier customer service improves. so far these are a good set of A-arms and have had no probs with them. i lube the heim joints and mounts after every run.

anybody know the float height specs for the mikuni TM 34? lost my mikuni spec book somewhere.

3 1/8" bend to bend. good luck with the fab!

try spraying it with WD-40 and wiping it off. the kerosene in the WD will bring out some of the shine. you can try just a bit of wax but go really easy because the sealing layer can be damaged when using to much wax or polish. use a light polishing action with very little pressure on the anodized surface.

black is good.

mine does the same thing sometimes. better be wearing boots when it kicks back cause it realy slams your foot! haven't fixed it yet. trying to figure out a way to get the asshole next door to try and kick it over with a pair of sandals on.

if it's that warm out and the bike still won't start it's probably not a choke problem. have you cleaned the carbs lately. how bout a compression check?

i'm talking when it is cold atmosphereically and when the engines cylinders are cold enough to draw the atomized fuel particals out of suspension.

here's a diagram. "A" being the jet i'm talking about.

sorry my explaination above wasn't very clear. beer and the internet don't mix! i'll give it another try. here goes: For normal applications,the starter circuit or "choke",performs the task of administering the correct mixture to start a "cold" engine. what is meant by a cold engine varies greatly,between a motorcycle engine,which may only operate down to 40F and a snowmobile engine which can run at -20F. for this reason, the snowmobile carb is set up much richer than the motorcycle running the same size carburetor. this applies to the choke or starter circuit as well. this is often forgotten when someone tries to run a carburetor calibrated for a snowmobile on a motorcycle (or banshee!) and it floods out continually even when both carbs are the same size as the ones that were on the banshee or motorcycle. For this reason, the mixture can be changed,even the mixture for the choke. In the bottom of the float bowl passage,which feeds the suction tube to the mixing chamber for the choke, sits a small jet which controls the fuel flow to the choke. this jet can be removed and replaced by a larger one, effectively making the choke circuit "richer" for starting your banshee in colder weather. the reason the bike will not start in the cold is that the mixture for the choke is too lean. next time you have your carb bowls off look down the hole that the brass suction tube fits into and you will see the jet i'm talking about. again this may only apply to mikuni carbs. look at some of the parts break downs online on Sudco's site. it will show this small jet.

check the float bowls. there are small jets in the float bowl that regulate the fuel flow to the starter circuit. when its really cold out, you have to get bigger jets to make the starter circuit(choke) work correctly. the jets in the bowl are calbrated for warmer climates. the jets are located under the brass tube that sticks into the bowl that feeds the starter circuit or choke. call "sudco" and they should be able to fix you up with the right jets for the bowl. atleast this is mostly the case for mikuni carbs. not sure about keihins? don't bother messing with the idle circuit to try and fix this problem. the engine has to start first. :thumbsup:

would be happy with a hooper 1000 tripple pro-stock snowmobile engine with "predator" cylinders. or maybe a crankshop 1500 rotary valve tripple.

how high is your pile of stock pipes . would you need oxygen at the summit? :biggrin:

pm sent!

PCs make good power! i've had both DMCs and PCs and its a toss-up. DMCs (with my mods) made alot of mid range power, but i always thought that the PCs had abit more over-rev/top end.

i did the same thing the first time i put mine together. spent hours futzing with the adjustment screw trying to get the trans to shift 1 to 6 and back down again. i ended up adjusting it the best i could and putting it together. it works like a top and shifts flawlessly. no worries!

while you are at it you might as well make it a remote 2 liter boost bottle. you could mount it under the rear grab bar or on the handle bars using flexible rubber tubing! . :biggrin: double quadruple dare to the power of 10 !

IMO the 35s should do just fine.

not sure if you can go out that far on a 26mm carb or not. i had a set of flat slides that went from 38mm out to 40.1 mm that were bored by the Crank Shop in vermont. kurt ,the crank shop tech guy, told me not to go any larger cause air can leak in around the slide. also had a set of round slides that were enlarged from 38mm to 39.8mm, done by a local shop. this was also considered to be a maxed out bore job. better check with someone before you bore those carbs.