Hilarious

to me excessive would be dropping it a gear low enough for the back tires to skid a bit on decelleration. imo a working duneable override is the shiznite in a trail bike. the extreme dunable i had was awesome up to the moment it popped. just stay on the pipe, control it with your brakes and throttle and bang the gears. makes for an interesting ride.

your engine looks a lot like the pile of junk motor that i bought from that group of numbnuts out of barbourville, ky. that motor was most likely put together with that cylinder skirt missing after it had been blown up. torn down and thrown back together for a quick turn around.

i have a 2 into 1 exhaust on my canam 800r and it is more of a bad ass trail bike than any banshee i have ever trail ridden.

yes, i too would like to know what was improved on that trans if any improvement was made. i popped mine on the 2nd tank of fuel.

is there any visable damage? i have a magnum basket in (2) of my bikes and one of them also has straight cut primaries and no issues. just thinking outloud here but did you not put the thrust washer behind the basket, what about the one that goes between the basket and the inner hub?

or some punk hillbilly douchebag kids that live in some kentucky backwoods. all my banshees have been very reliable. the only problems i have had have been user error.

i dont know about that. i sent mine back and greg wanted to just replace my 2nd gear and nothing else which i do not think is right. i know 2nd gear is a weak link in these transmissions with the bigger motors but i am not running a big motor here, just a little ole' 73hp 4mill 350. what's to say it wouldnt pop again with a new 2nd gear in it? i still think the way the drum was cut had something to do with it.

from whom did you purchase your transmission?

how bad was the shaft bent and which one was it? i am about to send mine back today and i notice more damage everytime i look at it. the front shaft (the shaft the clutch is attached to) is just barely bent. i put new shift forks in this thing, only have (2) tanks of fuel through it and the (lone) front shift fork is torn to hell. the other (2) dont have any wear on them. makes me think back to the shift drum putting more pressure on the front fork.

i looked it over a little better and found 2nd gear has a crack in it.

i think it may be the shifting mechanism. i got around to splitting my engine cases last night and expected to see total carnage, only to find all the gears and what not still intact and looking just like when i had first recieved it. i can not tell right off what is going on but the primary shafts will almost make a full revolution before it gets in a bind then will not rotate any further. it is like they are stuck in between gears. i did not recieve any springs to put between the shift forks like all the other overrides i have seen. could this be the problem?

i think anyone that pulls some shit like that ought to be banned from being able to breathe as well as from a website that they use as an avenue to peddle their junk. all their numbnut shady friends that come in to justify the transaction ought to be banned also.

well i did infact break mine. if these trannys are weak due to a high hp application, i believe my oem, spread bore, stock case 350 4mill would have smoked it right after assembly. it did in fact break while downshifting between 4th and 3rd gear. i do not know the extent of the damage yet as i have not split the cases yet. that joker was sure running great right before it broke though.

seems like a heck of a deal for someone. and to think no downtime waiting for cylinders to be ported too. btw, when are you headed back to springhill? we all need to meet up at the track one night.

the fastest banshee i ever saw went like this.....

i heard this boy done ripped off a few other folks........

the last motor i put together was like that. i wouldn't put an extra washer in there either. the best i can tell is that the slack is supposed to be in there. when you pull the slack out and turn the gear, the impellar vanes make contact with the inner pump surface inside the clutch cover.

only the stockers are made like that. there is no need to stagger the aftermarket steels like the oem ones.

that is funny. i dont understand why you didnt run from the policeman though.

i have a new 800r outlander and i simply love it. they are very impressive right out of the box and its like riding around on a couch.

i had a couple of very knowledgable forum members tell me to put banshee pistons in to make my 4mil a real 4mil. so that is what i did.

what is all the commotion over the extreme duneable? where are all these complaints that yall are talking about? i am not tring to stir the pot any as i would just like to know also. i have a 1-5 extreme that i just put in my new, 4mil 350cc motor. the only comments i have, which i think were a bit strange was during the install. it would not shift dry and also i had to put it into first gear to adjust the shifter because the shift detent peg would not rest centered between the shift points on the shift star while in neutral. after cranking the engine over for the first time with oil in the trans case it shifts fine. so far it shifts thru the gears just fine while using the clutch. i have up shifted thru the gears without the clutch once. i have backloaded it (downshifting and using the clutch). the only thing i have not done yet is downshift without the clutch. keep in mind i only have about a half a tank of fuel through it and i hope to test it out some more this weekend.

the chain adjustment is lightyears better and they clean up the ass end. i had a crush tube metaltech roundhouse on one of my banshees and had no problems out of it whatsoever..... no matter how you look at it, the chain adjustment on a stock banshee carrier sucks compared to the honda, roundhouse style carrier.