Hilarious

so what you are saying is the trails you ride are pretty technical? they must be if you are barely hitting 3rd gear. i'm not sure you would want a cheetah in those conditions. imo it will be a handfull in anything technical. now if you have any open areas to open it up it, like logging/ fireroads or any open fields i would go for it.

twistercrankshaft

how tight of trails are you talking about? what are you running in your trails right now?

the (2) forks that ride on the same shaft are different. its been a while since i have been inside a banshee trans, i remember there being (2) of the same size fork and i think a smaller one. one big fork rides by itself in front and one rides on the other shaft along with the smaller fork.

nope. i dont have that much money or time on my hands. lol

my can-am outlander has a rotax 800cc v-twin engine in it. here is some info on the cp industries cylinders...My http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/index

there is a lot of machine work involved on the top case to get those cylinders to bolt up in addition to the trenching. look here.... CP industries and also have a look here... mattoon machine lots of money involved right there......

i am not sure what bushings you are referring to other than maybe the shock linkage/dogbone? can you post a picture of what you are tring to replace? all the pieces in the rear end/swingarm are pretty cut and dry as far as replacement goes.

very generous offer right there. I'd like to help out a fellow mississippi rider.

where in LA? there are a bunch of LA guys that ride the sandhill branch near wiggins, ms near the gulf coast. if you are close, you ought to come up and check it out.

i dont think you are getting any traction. i have a +8 on mine with cub and you cant keep the front end of it down without the wheelie bar. unless you are hillshooting and drag racing, i dont think i would go over a +4. also the longer you go out the back, this will make your shock softer by putting more leverage on the ass end. you can compensate by having your shock re-valved and/or changing out the spring.

the pivot bearings or carrier bearings? lol i use a long socket wrench extension to beat the pivot bearings out. put the new bearings in the freezer and press them into the swingarm. i usually do the same with the carrier bearings. be very generous with the grease during reassembly also.

you should not have to trim your fenders for the fattys. at least i didnt, way back when i had fattys on one of my bikes.

I dont know what kind of carbs you have but, with the pwks, a 2" rubber pipe cap with hose clamp fits perfect over the carbs when removing the air filters for storage and cleaning.

Hey John, thanks for the xxxl anal beads. one set will work perfectly as motor mounts and the other set will take the place of my thumb throttle. A+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

are we talking about OEM carbs here? i thought we were talking about PWK's.

700r raptor with PC3, dual barkers and intake. makes a heck of a dune/trail/play bike. more plush suspension than the 450 and has reverse. can also ride a good bit on a tank of gas.

i dont. i usually just run some threebond up to the pockets in the cases where the seals go. I do pack the seals with grease though.

I think the pwks come with a 62 pilot. i would try a 50~52. i have almost same set up as you: drag port 4mm cub, 175 mains, CEL needle middle clip, 52 pilots and 2 turns out on air screws. you can tell what needles you have by pulling them out and there will be a (3) letter designation on the blunt end.

is it an aftermarket, if so, what wire is it spliced into?

bike is gone.

are you just wanting to drag race or what? how are you going to be riding your bike? this will really determine what setup you want. a good cub setup can be a real handfull and has a really violent lightswitch hit coming onto the powerband. other things to think about, you will have down time going the ported route. different builders have different turn around times. you wont have this with the cub cylinder. they are ready to go right out of the box. that is unless you have whomever you get it from do additional porting or cleaning up the transfers and whatnot. whichever option you go is only one piece of the puzzle. you are also going to have to upgrade your clutch and intake/fuel delivery also to get all you can out of your new motor. you already have come cpi's, timing plate and longer swingarm. that's a good start.

the reason for recommending a 21" tall tire was that you mentioned occasional duning. from my experience the 21" worked really well dragging, hillclimbing and duning. with the 22" the larger side wall had a bit more flex to it for my liking while general duning.

21x12x8 (8) paddle haulers on douglas .125 wheels

ttt