Hilarious

if thats the case, at least do a +10 and dump the works for some marvin shaw hillshooters.....

methanol is a "refined" alcohol, unlike ethanol. it makes less btu's than gasoline, burns longer. i dont think there are any disadvantages to using methanol other than the consumption and being harder to start in the cold. its cheaper than race fuel and it makes more torque. methanol is corrosive to aluminum and it attracts moisture, thats why you have to purge with gasoline. your internals will rust and corrode. also keep in a sealed container. your carburetors will have to be set up for the extra amount of fuel that is required. and the stuff is just plain awesome. lol

how often do you get into the upper gears other than drag racing? my play bike is set up somewhat similar to yours and i weigh a little more than you and i am using a 14/44 combo. Its really peppy and torquy on the down low, really run to ride. Not super crazy on the top end but enough to give some of the 4strokes a hard time at the drag strip.

kinda....... the power jets are in the bell end of the carb and wont let the sync tool penetrate (lol) the opening of the carb and make a seal to get an accurate reading. i havent really spent too much time tring to sync my carbs with this tool on my methanol bike, just tring to get both slides fully open all the way at the same time. other than that i agree with the sync tool's usefullness and for the most part works well.

yes you can use the stock crank with a cheetah top end to an extent. with the cheetah cylinder, you will have to use the head for that cylinder. what are you tring to acheve with your banshee? just to clarify, are you talking about a "cheetah" or "cheetah cub?" There is a difference. lol

Anyone figured out how to use these with power jets in the way?

Probably without cause you seen 421's with wheelie bars get beat by ones without.

i forgot all about this thread. i am sure you have found wheels by now>? i think the stock rear wheels are 9x8 with 3 + 5 offset. 8" wide wheel with the center mounting area being 3" from the inside and 5" from the outside of the wheel. i am not sure if you can get a greater offset that this in the rear wheels. the further away the center of the wheel is from the hub and axle, the more stress it will put on that hub/axle. if you arent jumping off of buildings and such, you may look into some wheel spacers as that would be a cheaper alternative to an aftermarket adjustable axle. i would much rather spend my money on an axle but i know a lot of people that get away with the spacers.

50mm i believe.

also to help prevent detonation with all the added timing and compression.

Sure could, all day long.

Jerid, I measured mine last night at 76 rollout. They have about 3~4 psi in them. BTW, this frame is sick.

cpis shearers will rev a little past your cpis and not come on as soon. i like the t-5s too, the cpis feel a little torquier (sp) to me.

Yeap. That too. Actually i should have said all the bikes i have seen with bars are strictly drag, not most. Mine included.

I have seen a lot of smaller and bigger motors using wheelie bars. Most are strictly drag bikes. Not sure what the big deal with it is, maybe the safety factor involved.

Ha. I saw a couple pics of your frame in your wire routing thread. That blue frame looks sick. Throw some pics up of it when you get it together, id like to see it.

I like the cascade chromed stockers. They are a little pricy but they are nice and they put 2 allen head screws through the rubber part to keep them from separating.

What exactically are you wanting to accomplish? Are you tring to narrow or widen the rear without purchasing an aftermarket axle with adjustable hubs?

i would love to have jimi hendrix' automograph somewheres on my banshee. i have one in my dammit box, im just too lazy to dig it out. lol

do you know anyone that has either and would let you borrow them? that is what i did. paddle tires are really expensive, especially the staggards.

i used a duplicolor silver on mine to touch it up. it wasnt dead on but pretty darned close.

Part it out. I need the e-clip that holds the rear brake pedal in place.

The flywheel puller is the only exotic tool you will need. A 1-1/4 socket or 32mm to remove the clutch hub.

I was using a 78 rollout 14 extreme staggard on my 4mill last season. Seemed faster that my 72ish roll out rippers that i was using. Where i race is heavy course sand and it seems to like more paddle and less gear. Ill be using a new setup this year so ill be starting over again. Lol

If it was me, i would split the cases. It is not hard to do. You need a good dial gauge to check true on your crank. Also check all the tolerances to see if its separating. Might as well pull it and send off for a true & weld. Its good assurance. The crank is the heart of your engine. 50 or 75$ not sure what the going rate is these days.