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Everything posted by 2twin350s
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and the raptor seat
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here are some of the most sick seats we have done to this point. these are custom airbrushed seats. hinddee 29 is a member on here and he is responsible for the art work and airbrushing.check him out for airbrushing needs. we, cosmic quads.com make the seat covers. these are a metallica ride the lightning seat for my shee and raptor wiley coyote seat we did for a raptor. if you want a custom seat like this we,cosmicquads.com can hook you up.enjoy and let us know how you like them.
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this is a bud light raptor seat we did for a customer.yeah that is right,we are the best seatcover people in the industry. who are we?we are cosmicquads. click the link to see some sick seatcovers and contact info. CASCADE SEATCOVERS?they are ok if ya want somthing some else has . if ya want original seatcovers,we are the people you want to contact.we will do any thing
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they are discontinued.the bud light contract is over. how ever we have 2 sets.brand new in packages.i will warn you we will want a penny for them. we also make matching seat covers for them.we are the only people who will make a seat cover to match we did this shee seat for a customer to match his graphics kit.
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this is a performance trick used buy drag racers and muscle car guys for years. the theory is that, by placing the electrode in the combustion chamber,nearest the exhaust port,you get a more complete fuel burn out of the combustion process. the fuel enters the intake port and when ignited,the burn starts at the intake side of the cylinder.buy placing the electrode at the exhaust side,the burn is getting a complete circular burn from the intake over to the exhuast. it helps burn ALL the fuel mix more productively buy doing this. in other words,by setting the electrode at the exhaust side,this is the last spot that the fuel is ignited.it would start the burn at the intake side and burn in a circular pattern from intake to exhaust.if you can see it happen, it would like like water draining in a bathtub in a tornado spiral effect. it is supposed to help burn the complete fuel mix instead of some being wasted in a uncomplete burn. it also is supposed to be a little less harsh on your piston tops,by a smoother burn in the cylinder.this does make a difference in a muscle car motor that is built for performance,you get a little more crisp throttle to the car.it does make a difference on a v8 muscle car. if i had to guess,maybe a 2-3 horsepower difference in a car. i have thought of doing this to my bikes but has slipped my mind.as far as a noticeable difference in a shee.i would say MAYBE a little more crisp low end throttle feel.a word of cuation though, make sure you are jetted slightly rich. by moving the electrode toward the exhaust side in a shee,i would think this might cuase a slight higer temperature in the exhaust side of the piston. we all know that that is the hottest part of the cylinder in a 2 stroke. so if you run lean and try this mod,you could thoeretically melt the exhaust side of the piston. keeep in mind that muscle cars and drag car engines are set to run rich. and the parts are much stronger than bike engine parts.
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I won't be there this weekend but some of my friends will. If you see a group of trikes, thats them. They will be getting ready for Trike Fest in June.
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just emailed my pick lee.hope it wins
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look at my signature.and i have a 3rd being parted out and i built my brothers shee for him so technically i own 4.3 of them run and are always ready to rip on.i have enough parts to build another banshee. and i have a tri-z restored and enough parts to build another tri-z.do i have a 2 stroke fetish? um yeah oh and i just got my boy a lt80 quadsport. and i used to have a 93 shee.my first shee.
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i would lean your premix back too.28-1? man that is rich.if you are running any kind of good premix oil,maxima, klotz,you can get away with at least 36-1 ratio.if you run too rich on your premix,it will give you a bogging feeling.and dont run yamalube or cheap 2 stroke oil.get some good oil and lean back some.you will notice a big difference.
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if the same cylinder keeps blowing,and by the looks of the piston,i would have to say it looks like the rings are clipping the exhaust port.make sure all your ports are shaved to keep a smooth transition to you cylinders.other than that,maybe your crank is goin out.but it did not look like that was happening.
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mud machines all the friggin way.no tire hooks like those.but if ya want smaller,the best i have found so far is yfz 450 rear tires.the dunlops.the have great forward bite.
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i have been runnin them in my 2 banshees for 2 years now.both engines are ported and piped.i have had no problems with them. its all in who does a good bore job and making sure your rings and pistons are fitted properly.like i said 2 years and no problems.i have not even seen a drop in compression readings yet.but i dont hold my shee wide open for 30 seconds at a time either.but i do run em hard.i do all trail riding.so for drag racing in the dunes or runnin wide open all the time,i cant give any feedback there.
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they make gages that are filled with liquid.this keeps the vibration down and prolongs the gage life.
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the 250r hondas are great machines.there is really nothin negative about them.but all around,the 250r is a going to teach most mild modded banshees a lesson.the only place i can outrun a 250r is on the topend in 6th gear.i love my banshees.but the next quad i build, will prolly be a 250r.cant go wrong with a 250r,and on a tight mx track,i bet they can still get past some new 450 quads.
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az erik,well i nailed that one right on the head i have a complete side cover set up with all the fixins. if interested send me a pm.i also have a coolhead for sale.i have all the parts you need.i got a whole engine sittin here.i will be parting it out shortly on ebay.
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i will almost bet your waterpump is trashed.make sure you pull the clutch cover and check the white nylon gear for the pump.what happens is at high rpms,the green impeller slips on the shaft cuasing loss of coolant flow.i would just get a megaflow waterpump and seal and be sure the nylon drive gear is good.the pump went bad and you popped the head gasket.also make sure your coolant is not 100 percent antifreeze.that will cuase overheating also.at this piont,your top end needs to be rebuilt.spend the 300 bucks and get it done and have your head checked for warpage.your hard starting is most likely due to worn top end parts cuasing low compression. i would also say replace your reeds during the rebuild and have it ported and polished.this may satisfy your wanting a 400cc engine.it will be really fast with a new top end and port and polish job.
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I'll check around and see if i can find you some
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we made this custom velvet seat cover .we can do other colors and designs,also vinyl and gripper.we sold this complete seat on ebay for 92 bucks covered and ready to install.we can makea cover and ship it, or you can ship us your seat and have it covered and sent back. you can check our website at www.cosmicquads.com.do you like this particular cover?we stock complete banshee seats also.so if you want to purchase a spare seat already covered that can be done also.thanks for looking
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sounds like the detent spring for the shift star is broken or loose.or the shift star itself worked loose from the shift drum.better pull the clucth cover and look.
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enough of this nonsense.you are totally useless and i am bored.everybody can thank lucky 13 for this post.i am sure all that have read this posts feel much less intelligent now.what a waste of webspace.nice way to crap out a good forum for people really lookin for parts.get a life
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we can soften and recover your seat for you.check our website.www.cosmicquads.com
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gripper hurts my soft baby ass cheeks.
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barnett dirt digger all the way.dont be cheap(tusk).run the stock springs they give you with the dirt digger kit.i slip the hell out of mine hillclimbing.holds up great.those tusk cluthces will be slippin in a year.
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you said the motor siezed once. have you checked the water pump? does the bike run good at all?and then start runnin shitty?the only thing i can think of that you have not eliminated is CASES or cooling problems cuasing the motor to seize.you said you got some used cases correct? you did leak down and checked ok.but does not say that there is a leakdown between both cylinders. you have swapped carbs,coils,reeds,jugs,electrical,head.possible it could be the crank not being trued? or cases leaking air.but if you siezed a piston and the bike runs good until it seized,i would say water pump problems could be in order.the left cylinder is the last one to get coolant flow.so a weak water pump or cooling system could be the culprit.i have seen this happen on tri-z trikes.the impellar slips on the shaft and boom.there goes the piston and rings.just my 2 cents.good friggin luck with that one.did you rebuild the water pump when you did the engine? be honest.a lot of guys just pull the clucth cover during a rebuild and never do the pump.i would say check the water pump regardless.no one ever mentioned that and if the motor ran good for a minute or so then got hot and ran like crap and siezed rings on the left side.that is a cooling issue.especially since you have eliminated every thing else.i have extensive engine building expereience and i know my idea may be far fetched but worth a try. and i did read all the posts on this topic.water pump or cooling has never been mentioned.could be the problem
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How many kicks to start your Shee ?
2twin350s replied to milo_32000's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
both my shees are ported and polished.good topends.motors are mechanically a-1.when it is cold and been sitting4-6 kicks.when warm 1st kick. sometimes i take the gas cap vent tube and blow in the tank then hold my thumb over the vent tube.this forces gas thru the petcock and helps get it to the carbs better.for some reason the wifes shee, floats stick closed after it sets and i have to tap on the float bowls to get her goin.i also like to bump the kicker over real slow a couple of times before i try to fire it up. i notice a lot of shee owners kickin the hell out of ther bikes really hard.this is what cuases the kicker gears to break.as long as your bike is mechanically sound,there is no reason to kick the livin shit out of it like it is some 1979 air cooled enduro.i noticed good runnin banshees start easy with just moderate kicking.

