2twin350s

i worked for gm for 12 years and rebuilt the 4l60e trans quite a few times.since it was fine before you did the service,i agree with this guy.i have seen that when pulling the pan off,they sometimes hit the shift solenoids and break one.it will be ok after a new one is installed.but,unless your buddy is real good at the dealer,expect to get charged around 200 bucks.the solenoid is around 75 bucks and they will charge to put it in.in the future,i found if you loosen the y-pipe at the motor,it drops down enought to get the pan out.or sometimes loosening the trans mount bolt and jacking it up off the crossmember helps too.for some reason though i have had to loosen both parts on some of the chevy trucks.oddly enough,the most of my rebuilds were becuase the 4l60 lost reverse gear.that is pretty common on those.that is the only real problem they have.

if your coolant was not dropping,and you know the water pump seal is good,i say you sucked water in thru the case breather tube.cut a new piece of vacumn line and run that breather tube up under your gas tank.one other place that was not mentioned,your kicker seal or sprocket seal could be letting water in there.

yep.i use a snap on crank hub puller for cars.i have used it on bike cases before.the work real well.i think sears craftsman has the same kit for 60 bucks or so.you might have to go to the hardware store and buy a few extra bolts to thread into the cases.i believe the official name of the tool is called a bolt grip puller set.

my wife used a foam baby bottle brush to go inside the housing and dish soap.dont use the wire kind,they will scratch the inside lenses.you can get them at a drug store for 3 bucks or so.that got the inside clean.then use 3m finishing polish and a soft rag on the outside.they should look brand new when done

sounds like he did not hook up the rubber tube between the carbs.he siad he just had the top-end off. there is a 3 inch peice of rubber vacumn line between the 2 carbs.it goes on 2 little nubs at the front of the slides .this always falls off.if you do not see this tube between them,that is your problem

holy crap how fast do you need to go.stock gearing should give you plenty of speed. if you are running stock rear tires or 18 inch hole shots go to a 20 inch rear tire.that will give you a little more top end.if not go up to a 15-16 tooth front sprocket,or drop 1 tooth down in the rear sprocket.

yes check your forks,but also pay special attention to the gears.not so much the outside teeth,but there will be 3-4 cogs on the insides of the gears.these engage to the gear next to it.the cogs are supposed to drop in holes of the neighboring gear.sometimes the cogs get rounded off and will slip out of the gear that they engage with.you will see evidence of the cogs and holes on the mating gear wearing away.this is usually cuased by shifting without the clutch.if you see this wearing of the gears,replace all of the affected gears.not just one.and you will have to replace the shift forks and shift fork rod.usually the edges of the forks will be ground up.this is from shifting with out a clutch.always use the clutch to shift it.

mine was doing this a week ago.the stator was junk. try a new pick up coil.the little black box next to the flywheel. make sure you have the proper air gap set on that.i think it is 17-20 thousandths.not sure on that spec though.also,try a cdi box.sounds like both cylinders are firing 180 out of time.that is what mine was doing.you could barely kick it,it almost broke my foot when trying to start it.then if i got it running,you had to hold it wide open and it would only hit like 2000 rpms.the pipe was getting really hot.i dropped in a stator i had for it and it runs fine.one more thing,make sure your flywheel key did not shear and move the flywheel.

worthless.save the 30 bucks for brake pads.that is 3 strikes for the boost bottle.

man unless you weigh like 400 lbs,there is no way you should be bottoming out unless that shock is junk.very common for a shee to have a blown shock on there. get a works or a new used banshee shock off ebay. you can also get a warrior shock on a banshee.but they go for more money.

banshees had 2 different heights in seat foam.87,88,89,and i think 90 were lower profile foam from what i have seen,those seem to be the most desired seats.91 and up never changed.and was taller foam.the red seat is a 89 seat. the black camo seat is a newer year seat it is 3and1/2 inches tall at the very back of the seat and and 7 inches tall at the front piont.the red seat is the lower profile.it is exactly 1 inch lower than the newer seats.oh,the black camo seat is on ebay for sale right now.i am moshman355 on ebay.hope this helps.here are a few pics of the measure points.

uhhh,you guys are makin this too hard on the guy.i have recovered over 200 seats.it is not that bad.all i can say is it does require patience and beer,and i used a stanley power shot on over 100 of those seats.i never had a problem with it,you just need to put some ass behind it.lol

if it is the 3mil thick vinyl like a graphics kit has,you have two options.1 use a stanley power shot staple gun with 8 millimeter staples.the handle loads at the front so you can get pressure on the pan.use a blow drier to soften the material too.that helps the staples get thru.2 use a air powered stapler.i bought one and it is all i use now.but it is like a 100 investment and for one seat,i dont see it benifitting you.just make sure the staples are no more than a 1/4 inch long or you will blast right thru the new cover.

well i took off the whole friggin electrical system.went thru everything.i could not see any thing wrong.it is now going back together.i think i will swap out the coil.my shee has never given me a problem and i cant stand it when it does.i am going to run the ricky stator high output.i hooked up another regulator and the lights are friggin awesome now.gotta get one for the wifes shee next.thanks for the tips guys.

my banshees are awesome on the trails.drop down to a 12 tooth front sprocket,get a 2-1 pipe.carb is not needed.dmc 916s are good for trails.it will have as much low end as any 4 stroke with the 2-1 pipe. but you will lose top end with this set-up.oh yeah,port and polish the jugs too and mil the head 20 thousandhts.

yeah there was no symptoms.no cutting out or nothing it just friggin acted up once and died with the cdi box. at one time my flywheel came loose(dumbass attack lol) and there was a small crack in the stator glue and a knick on the pick-up coil.but i put it back together and ran it for a year and a half.may be that was it.i still think i am gonna pull the harnees and inspect it. stator and cdi box man that is like 300 bucks worth of stuff even on ebay.over 600 brand new.i dont want to fry them any more.i hear with the ricky stator,there is a 3rd plug for a second voltage regulator.you have to run a second regulator on that white wire to keep from blowing your lights correct? and i can run my stock flywheel with the ricky stator right? what wattage bulbs can i run in my stock head lights with the ricky stator?

i was drag racing on mine this weekend and the clear vinyl makes them really slick.i could hang on,but i think gripper sides would be needed for drag racing grip.then you would have to grip with your thighs while you are drag racing.now we couild do a gripper top with some stuff airbrushed on the sides of the seat with clear vinyl.since you do stickers,if you use the standard 3 mil graphic vinyl,you can print your own side panels the send them to us to make a seat cover for you with a gripper top. do you want your drag foam lower than the 87-88 seats?those are almost 2 inches lower than the newer banshee seats. we would probably be the ones that can do this for you.it would have to be airbrushed .there is no way that much stitching would work. what do you think hindee? up for airbrushing a confederate flag?

ok this weekend i was riding my 96 shee.all of the sudden it is slower than a blaster.i pull over and try to shut off the quad and it would not shut off.i stalled it and would never refire.i had no spark.so i check some things and found my cdi box took a crap.i had spare with me.i ride the rest of the weekend with no problems and load it on the truck and go home.now i get home and i try to start it and all it does is backfire,almost to the piont that the kicker brakes my foot when it backfires.if i could get it started it would not run more than 200 rpms and was backfiring wwhile i forced it to run.after 2 hours of screwing around with it,i drop in a spare ricky stator i had and bam.she fires right up and runs perfect.what the hell.how can i puke 2 major electrical componenets in 4 days.i keep my stuff dry,my stator cover was sealed water tight.i keep my bikes really nice.is it possible i have a short in my wiring harness?that cuased these parts to fail?is it possible the stator was going bad first and took out the cdi first and then puked the stator? anyone seen this happen before?i am down to my last spare parts and i dont want to fry anything else.my tors system has been completely removed for 5 years,all my electrical stuff was stock to begin with and my key switch has been removed. i dont run a race killswitch and the only electrical stuff not stock is a set of sik-lite l.e.d.s i installed a month ago.could these have cuased the failures?what is funyy is all my stator checks with a meter are in specs,but it would not run with the old stator.man any ideas would help here.i dont want to fry any more electrical stuff.i thought i knew just about all there is to see on a banshee.i had 5 of these things for years. so ineed some good tech info on this.i have already checked all the obvious stuff.the only thing i have not done is removed my wiring harness and unwrapped the tape and inspect every square inch of wires.come on guys what do you think is happeneing?

i dont think that bushing can be bought seperate. you have to get the whole stator cover. now the older shees ran a brass bushing in the cover.the newer stator covers 04 and up ran a nylon bushing.best bet is to get a nice newer cover from ebay.about 20 bucks.or i have heard of people making a bushing for them.those are your only options

87 thru 90 had lower foam.almost 2 inches lower.91 and up had the stock heigher foam.if you need seat work,get in touch with us.go to our site on the links page.www.cosmicquads.com we specalize in seat work,espeacillay banshees.i also have a pic of my seat work under banshee appearence .

if your bushing in the sator cover is worn where the shifter rod passes thru,you will toast that new seal in a month.you need to make sure that bushing in the staor cover is good.it keeps the shifter rod centered so it does not put pressure on the seal.

wheel pattern bolt size? no. i have 05 yfz wheels and tires on my 93 shee.they bolt right up.

i will be getting back to you sunday.thanks

so far durabilty has been good on these. i have 4-5 hours on the metallica seat. how ever,these are in ideal conditions.for sand i would say they will hold up good. for mud,well that has yet to be tested. but anyone who spends a couple hundred on a seat prolly wont be takin their shee out in the mud.thanks for the compliments

i will be listing a complete set of the bud light graphics along with a complete bud light matching seat with cover sometime around june 20th on ebay. i will post on this as soon as the auction gets started. in the meantime watch ebay or contact me thru p.m.