2twin350s

automotive bulb number 194 is the correct bulb.it is the same bulb most cars use for the courtesy lights under the dash when you open the doors.just go to auto zone and get some 194 bulbs.they come in 2 packs. they are like a dollar.

you will grind the edges of the shift forks and round off the engaging cogs of the gears. then later on it will start popping out of gears under a load. I AM SICK OF THESE IDIOTS SAYING IT WILL NOT HURT ANY THING. i have torn down numerous bike trannys and seen the damage that it does. i currently have a yz 250 engine torn down showing evidence of some jerk shifting without the clutch. it will damage stuff. these people that say it wont probably only keep their bike for 2 years and sell it.it may not show up right away,but if you plan on keeping the bike for a long time, it will give you problems. there are specail trans mods that can be done to make it shift without the clutch,but stock trannies are not designed for that.

i have run maxima 927 for 5 years. never had a engine failure. even after 500 hours on my pistons, there was still hone marks in the cylinders. it is good stuff. i run 44 :1 with pump premium gas.that stuff will seperate from the fuel in temps below 32 degrees. so watch out in the winter time after the gas has set. make sure you shake it up and remix it.

i run a motofast 2 into 1 on both my shees. your main jets should be at least 240s. and that is if your less than 50 over on your bores. 250s will be good for 50 over on your bores.

i always ran mud machine tires. i am now hearing they are discontinued. is this true? i used to get them from magic racing,but they are not showing them anymore .anyone heard this rumor to be true?

they hook ok. but they are too hard of a tire and wont hook on hard slick mudpack.i personally dont like them.one season and they dont hook at all. i really like the stock yfz 450 rear tires.they hook just as good as my mudmachines.but they give up a little ground clearence

generic number for that bearing is 6203.you can get em at advanced auto parts. they are replacement bearings for idler pulleys on most serpentine belt car engines.ford and chevy use them. tell them you need a idler bearing fora 2000 buick lesabre with a 3.8 engine that goes on the serp belt idler pulley.they are like 6 bucks.

you can run a fmf silencer i think.or some other silencers

well wesw, i dont personally know you but i got jumpon the bashin wagon. SILLY bundle of sticks,DICKS ARE FOR CHICKS.

well, it ook the thing apart and found that the resistor for the left bank of lights is bad. i am goin to fix it on monady.

just my 2 cents,if i had 15k to spend on a car for pure muscle, i would have to go for a 66 nova duece. custom built with a 355 small block and a muncie rock crusher . YEAH BABY, nothin on the street would touch that but if ya want the new stuff then i would say the T/A is the way to go. they have endlees hop-up potential.but seriously, i would look for some good ole detroit muscle. maybe a gto judge? those goodole cars are just goin up in value.i miss my 81monte with my own built 355 small block. that car used to piss off a lotta other cars. i loved spankin 5.0 mustangs with that thing . but i got rid of here to build on the house and keep all my quads.

i got this one from billet banshee on ebay. do a search for banshee led lights, then go to buy it now auctions. he should come up. he has many pics of the housings on there.i think the price was 35 bucks shipped to me. i guess the red leds are working better than the blue ones.

yeah when i got them on, they did not flicker at all. then like i said next day i started it and they were acting up. only the left 3 flicker. and yes,there are 2 allen bolts to get access into the housing and bulbs.like i said,the housing looks good,with the lites off.lol

use a dremmel with a small stone on it. go indside the swing arm and dremmel thru 2 parts of the pivot bearing race. then the race will fall right out. be careful not to go in the swingarm steel housing though.

yes mine are blue. i have haerd that the red ones are better. and justintoxicated i get what you are saying, but do to the fact that i never revved the bike at all, i dont think spiking is the issue,i started it and was good the first time and next day started it and bam. the one bulb is really dim and tyhe 2 next to it are flickering. i just think they are cheap bulbs, however, i will bring home my fluke 88 and do a min max voltage spike test to see.

no i had polarity correct. led stands for light emitting diode. a diode is a one way voltage passing resistor. i am aware of how to install correctly. the stinkin thing just has cheap bulbs.

guys check out alba racing. they are selling a bearing installed shift drum for 125.oo$

glad you are ok. the bike pics make me friggin sick to my stomach. watched mine tumble down a hill once and bend a lot of stuff. freakin pissed me off .i hate to see a shee bent to hell. that is no fun. good thing there are a ton of parts available. good luck to you,if i had any parts i would offer them, but runnin 2 shees it is hard to keep spares around.

mine does this too on occasion. only coming out of third in a drag race.i replaced the basket and plates and set the shift adjustment a little closer to the upshift side and it seems to have helped so far. i figure you want to upshift quicker than downshift and it is easier to downshift any way.the locknut on the shift shaft next to the shift star will adjust to do that for you.so far it seems to be better. i also noticed that heavy oils will cuase this too, so i stick with 10w30 in the trans.

i am runnin upp stuff too.no complaints

yeah what the hell? i will just rebuild the thing right.i heard some of you had a problem with em,so i took a chance.i will go get some leds at radio shack and repair myself

just got my light from billet banshee off ebay. put it on friday. it fits and looks nice. fired it up and worked great. saturday, pushed bike out of garage and fired it up and not even riding it ,1 lite burnt out and theft side lights are pulsing and gettin dim.he says 60 day warranty and that is fine, but for the time and money it takes to send it back i will just ask him for bulbs to fix it myself, or i will go get some bulbs and fix it. just wanted to let you know. the housing looks great and i should be able to just reuse that with some better quality bulbs.

my bad then about the pic . glad to see it is goin good for you now

cronstar. i have gone thru this with you once before. that pic of your carbs, the choke tube is missing again!!!. put it on and if he did the motor correct,it should start. leave the tors wires unplugged. it will not hurt anything.every body unplugs them and if you go with idle kits they get thrown out any way. i have piles of those tors units. i use them for batting practice.if you dont get that tube on there you WILL BURN UP YOUR NEW TOP END.

sounds like the top end is weak, but as a last ditch effort, check the choke transfer tube between the carbs. they fall off a lot. it is a 3 inch rubber vacumn line between the carbs joining them together.it goes just in front of the slides at the tops of the carbs.if it is missing it could be your problem. i would also check the compression.