2twin350s

The website has had that page up since the first of this year. They are still open Monday thru Friday, but they are closed on Thursdays and the weekends. 8am-5pm est. You can reach them on their contact page. They have been in business since 2004. Custom orders can take up to 6 weeks depending on how complicated they are.

cosmicquads.com can do the Zebra themes without a ton of seams, and are one of the only companies doing seats that can make you a seamless seatcover. They even can restore seats back to OEM look and logos. Custom work too.

Sweet pics.Thanks for sharing!

I never had any interaction with her, but used to watch her post on here. She used to give some fools a real hard time. Always enjoyed watching her set some people straight. Sad she died so young, and our thoughts go out to friends and family.

These guys do them also. But they take awhile,and often they have a waiting list. http://www.cosmicquads.com/index2.html http://www.cosmicquads.com/8482.html

No problem man. I dont run the coolheads or timing plates. I like to keep these engines reliable,so with every mod you do, you take a chance of adding more problems. The only complaint I have with that set-up is the 2-1 pipes hold more heat in the engine,becuase they are so reliant on back pressure to make the torque.So after 20-30 minutes of low speed putting,and slow long hillclimbing in tight woods,they get little hot and start to spit a little coolant out the overflow.As long as you keep air moving over the rads, they do fine,but when you get climbing slow long hillclimbs on a 85+ degree day, they will get hot.Usually I shut it off, have a beer and smoke and back out I go. Honestly, I wouldnt advance the timing,that would only make it run hotter. I say run a aftermarket larger radiator, with That Cool Aid coolant, and a Hi flow Water pump. Spend your money on those before a coolhead. I would just get the pipe and filter first,and jet it,and do the 12 tooth frt sprocket. Ride it and see how you like it.Even on a stock engine without the shaved head, they still pull really fat down low. Then make sure you like it, then pull the head, mil it, throw in some new pistons,and get a low to mid range port job. Both of My shee's have this done to it,and every trailrider who rode them absoulutely loves the power delivery of them. My wife's has Namura power pistons in it, but I wont run them anymore just because I heard they fall apart.And I like the Wiesco's becuase they rev up a little quicker than the Namura's Funny thing is, My wife's she has 6 years on her top end with no problems with those Namura Pistons.She has a 89 engine that has only been bored 2 times.Yes...2 times since 89. My she had about 7 years on the original bore,then I rebuilt, and it has about 6 years on it now only 20 over it is a 96. My brother's shee had 11 years on the OEM topend and has about 3 years after the rebuild on it, he is 20 over and it is 93. Honestly if you are tuned good with a nice sealed air-filter, and seal up your stator cover and are good on maintennace, you can run these motors for a few years before they need any top end work.I make my own Pro flow adapter out of the factory air filter cage,and use a large rubber O-ring and bolts to secure the adapter to the airbox.With a new K&N, making this set-up yourself is reliable and will only cost your the 27$ for the K&N.Instead of 100$ for that PRO Flow deal. In 6 years, my wifes has only dropped 10 PSI of compression from 142-133.I am going to freshen hers up this spring. I have been meaning to make a post about how to attack all the weak dirt sucking points of a Banshee engine, that causes problems,but I just not have gotten around to it. Oh yeah I run pump gas 93 octane with Maxima 927 at 42-1.In all of them. You dont owe me anything...LOL Just post up how you like it when done. Just make sure you get the motofast, and not the dynoport.The motofast was better.I have seen the system go for as little as $200 Shipped I dont get on these forums too much, so if you have anymore questions you can drop me a Private message so I see it in my email.

I always set my Banshee's up for massive bottom end for tight woods and trail riding.All I ride is rocky mountain hillclimbs and tight knarly trails. If you want a ton of bottom end out of a stockish motor, here is what you want to the T.. MotoFast 2-1 pipe..(Hard to find, you will have to search Ebay) Cut your head .020...(You dont even have to do this, but it will get you even more low end torque) Boyeson Power reeds. Jet your stock carbs with 240 Main's(these mains will be fine for up to .040 over bore), needle in the middle, stock pilots, air screw 1-1/2 turns out(Assuming your altitude is around 600 ft.) Get a 12 tooth frt sprocket. K&N filter with 6-3/8ths holes drilled in your lid. This set-up will allow you to putt anywhere, never fouling plugs, and you can just tap the clutch and slam the throttle wide open at will with no bog. The bike will pull much like a 4 stroke at low RPM's pull hard in the mid, But it will absolutetly die off on the top end with this set-up. It will still rev out well, it just wont make much power after the top of the midrange. You wanted a honest answer for "bottom end power" and there it is. Between My wife's, Brothers, Mine and my friend's shee, we have been running these set-ups for over 20 years combined. It absoultely is about the best down low power you can get. I have tried other dual systems, and yes they uncork more power, but you have to stay on the pipe to use it with most dual systems. And this set-up above, will still allow you to tap out at about 65-68 MPH and cruise at about 55 MPH on long open roads. Recently I switched to DMC 916's and left everything else the same,except I went to 280 Main jets. These are doing very good down low, and man they really woke the bike up in the midrange and the top end screams, but they dont pull as much torque as the Motofast does down low.

I posted a "How to thread" on this over 2 years ago on another forum.. Here is the link. http://forums.everything2stroke.com/cosmetic/23689-tips-remove-anodizing-wheels.html at the time I used oven cleaner. It looks as if the drain cleaner works good too. What brand cleaner did you use?

I have run them extensively Even back to back against duals. My results are different than yours, but I havent had a chance to try alot of dual systems. I always have don testing on ported engines with stock carbs. One thing I will agree with on the 2-1 pipes is they just make noise up top. Dynports dont perform as well as the Moto Fast system, So I will leave it at that. But you really need a shirt that says I HATE 2-1 Pipes... LOL

No I wouldnt ever paint plastic. Those are Maier rears and a Honda tank I put on there. Thanks for the good comments guys

I blacked out my 250R for the most part. Before, After Also my Tri-Z I would say mostly black with some silver accents or another color,looks pretty tough vs. just all black.

The DMC aliens are the same front pipes as the 916 system,and are still available from DMC.

Moto Fast and Dyno-port were the only 2 systems that had the 2-into 1 set-up. The motofast had slightly better low end and midrange hit than the Dyno Port. Dyno port still makes them and can be contacted.. I have no Idea how to get ahold of the Moto-Fast company.

I have one, with grooved fingers 25 shipped.

Years ago we were riding,a buddy starts his shee in the morning and it just jumped in gear and shut off.A emergency in the dirt cover removal revealed that the idler gear clip fell off, and the gear flew off the shaft, broke in 2 and wedged behind the clutch basket. For him to finish the ride, we removed the gear, and reassmebled the bike and he just bump started it the rest of the weekend.Unfortunately for him, the carnage tore up the case where the kicker spring hooked to the cases which required some welding to repair correctly.When I built my wifes shee, same problem.Shaft all messed up and no circlip groove. I have another engine in the basement..Same problem...Yamha Tri-Z engines have the same dumb set-up. After seeing this problem with that idler clip on Banshees, many times...I just thought of something.. Why not take that output/countershaft shaft, chuck that bitch in a drill press, and drill a 1/16th of an inch hole thru the shaft in front of the idler gear washer, and drive a press fit roll pin thru there, or use a stainless steel cotter pin, in front of the idler gear to stop that thing from coming off...... I am going to give it a try.I am pretty sure that Shaft is hollow, even if not, a drill press with a good bit should drill thru there. Just a idea..... HEll I have a old shaft to try it out. If it works...every engine I do with that set-up will get that done from here on out. Even if that crap is new.

The nut is there to lock the adjustment shaft down after you adjust the clutch arm. You have it all right...but you are missing a thrust washer for the pancake bearing. There should be 1 washer on each side of the bearing. Then just assemble the pressure plate and adjust your clutch arm like the normal set-up from the factory. You will love that set-up makes a huge difference.

Man!!!!! There isnt any thread on this site that can stay ON TOPIC....... Hey Banshee barnes.... Common problem with those.. I wouldnt run the truck and spray carb cleaner thru the throttle as one guy suggested. It is too easy to flood the plugs out, hydrolock the engine, and saturate your oil with gas... and will not clean the TBI good enough. Get a TBI gasket. Remove the throttle body (they are very easy) Get some carb cleaner, and clean the TBI assembly.Open the throttle plate, and get all carbon build up off the TBI and plate...Pay special attention to get all carbon ridges off the edges of the plate where it contacts the throttle body bore. The bore should also have no carbon on it where the throttle plate rides. You may have to use a old tooth brush and scrub the carbon off. Use carb cleaner that is safe for TBI systems. Remove the IAC valve and clean the air passage of all carbon. I would suggest a new IAC valve, but you can gently clean the plunger with carb cleaner. Dont let any run down the pintle shaft. Re-install everything with a new TBI gasket. Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Then start it up. If it stalls, keep it running with your gas pedal til it warms up.This will let the PCM relearn the idle rate. Then shut it off, wait 30 seconds...cycle the key forward for 10 seconds, shut the key off for 30 seconds, then start it up. It should idle good after that, and not stall anymore. If it does keep stalling, you may have to replace the IAC valve..or have another problem. The IAC valve islocated on the base of the TBI unit. It is about 2 inches long, and 1 inch in diamter, held on with 2 torx screws. It has a cone type pintle valve on a shaft that moves in and out. DO not Force that shaft with your hands. If it is just carbon build up causing the stalling, the cleaning will only cost about 10 bucks with the gasket, and take 1 hour to do. If you replace the IAC valve...Those are about 20-40 bucks. Auto Zone, napa, ETC.... should have what you need.

Sorry to see you are making judgements on the appearence of them... :ermm: Show chrome is nice...but they seem to be nickel plated, which IMO holds up better than chrome. I mounted and have been tuning ours...The fugger is wheeling to the sky in 3rd and 4th gear,and my jetting still aint just right yet.... Sorry you wont even try them out..

Thanks.Yes that one pic was Haspin. Some vids?

Can I play? :biggrin:

Yeah dropping a shee motor in a Z frame isnt just a few motor mounts. More than likely, You will have to cut and reweld the down tubes, extend the cradle, relocate the radiators with a larger size, and come up with a top mount fuel tank, or drill and port the banshee jugs for a vacumn line to run the fuel pump on the under the seat fuel tank found on the tri-z.That would be bare minimum mods needed. For 150 bucks, that deal sounds like a bargain. Parts are hard to get for the Z. Many hard parts are discontinued. Trans gears, jugs, cylinder heads, clutch components, like the pushrod and adjuster screws etc.... There are parts out there but many times you have to settle for used. Lately though, many aftermarket parts have been starting to be made from private builders. Coolheads, V force reeds, Big bore kits, Swingarm bearing kits, things that were very expensive and hard to find at one point. But as with any small company producing on a limited basis, you have a long wait time on some of these parts.But what can you do if they are the only one making them? I have built and owned 3 of them, and starting a build on the 4th right now. Z's are awesome trikes, but they are tempermental if they have not been maintained. They had weak foot pegs and mounting areas for them, the water pumps have a high failure rate as they get old.The plastic impellar falls off and overheats the engine. They are not counter balanced in the engine, so they vibrate quite a bit. Every few hours of riding you have to tighten bolts back up on the machine as they rattle loose, even with loc tite. Many parts will transfer over to them though. 2004 YFZ rotors can be used, A lot of 86 YZ 250 engine parts can be used, Banshee rear axles and sprocket hubs work on them, Banshee regulators, Blaster coils Etc etc..I can go on and on. If you want more info on the tri-z Check out these sites... www.3wheelerworld.com www.planettrike.com

Sorry guy! I havent been on the PC for 2 weeks. I will be Pm'ing you info shortly.

Thanks Rollins for updating the thread. I have been busy lately and no time on the PC. I too, am frustrated with the waiting period. But what can we do? I am sure they will pallet drop these to me,when done. I have boxes ready to go for shipping as soon as they get here. I would hate to see anymore guys back out. Hopefully it is only another 3 weeks max, til you get them. When I had Discountinued plastics and molds made,those took about 3-4 months to get going. So these things can take a while.

I will have her call them today,and get some info. Please keep in mind "WE" are not building these. We are merely distributing them to you guys.I cant control, or push their manufacturing time. We tell you what they tell us. That is all I can do is what they tell me. However, you guys feel free to give them a call too,and ask them why they are taking so long. Just be polite and proffesional about it :biggrin: