trickedcarbine

Well get out your friggin master card son!

No! STFU! Kevin builds, no wait, he Crafts his motor from the purest of platinum known to man. I don't care how many times you hear of a lack luster HJR set up, its not possible!

I like the pinguel, but for my bike it needs to be on the right side of the tank.

You picked the right bike to ice race. If you spend as much on the chassis as the motor, IT WILL REIGN SUPREME. You will find that these things are far less complicated then the rest of your four stroke stable. As far as the motor, you are smart for going with the 4mm right out of the gate. Get a HotRods with the 115 rods, and have it speced and welded. Then there is your cylinder work. If you are able to salvage the ones you currently have you should have them ported and have domes set up as well by whoever you choose to do the motor. You will also need supporting mods. Cool head for the domes, reeds, intake, carbs, pipes, proper clutch set up, timing plate, transmission cut(Cam ATV does a nice stock cut) and shifting mods. It should get you low to mid 70's on pump or even 80ish on race fuel. Your motor set up will be really close to the dune stuff out there. It will give you enough grunt out of the hole and still pull the big straights. There are a handful of guys that have Successful flat track and TT motors out there. Jim at Passion Racing has put trophies in to many peoples hands with his motors. Brandon at Wild Card Racing has some success stories it TT. Cam at Redline seems to be able to turn any thing in to gold and I believe he has done a few winners in his time....... Then the names you won't hear much on here. Kevin Gigot, or John Stalworth. Pikes Peak legends! They know the motor you need. Those and only those names have I seen in the winners circle at Flat Track, TT, or Ice Racing. With the motor set up, you will need to really work on the chassis. You could do some budget +2 arms with blaster or 300ex shocks. A nice Long travel set up would be the best. Set it so the quad sits sagged down in the travel so that when the front end is lifting out of the turn the wheels will droop and still make contact and allow you to steer in stead of pushing to the out side. Steer clear of the Full Flight arms. There just isn't enough room to work with a sway bar on them.(ask Jesse) As for the shocks, make sure to get something with a remote resivoir in stead of the rezzy mounted to the shock. That way you will have clearance for the sway bar. Next point, a good sway bar is needed. 450's can run with out them, but the banshee needs one. Wacko2000 is selling a dura blue bar at a great price. My buddy might beat ya to it though. If you need to buy it later, Sidewayz is making a new bar or you can get one from Rath. Try to avoid the clamps on the arms. They do work, but the bar works better if mounted to an actual shock eye or welded tab. Out back, get a -2 swing arm and a wider axle. Make sure your stock shock is fresh so it adjusts properly and use a lowering link with greasable zerks. I would steer clear of the R6 shock unless you are super fat or having it resprung. Been there done that, let my words save you money and time. If you are really serious I would suggest some sort of ZPS set up all the way around. That allows you to change the quad height with out messing with the shock rates. Tires, some front tires with a semi deep lug and a flat profile in the middle. The Mohawk stuff is cool looking and will be ok through tracks that aren't cleaned up often, but on clean ice the flatter tire profile prevails. Out back, Cheng Chin C826's. Set the bike up to "drag race" the straights and use the sway bar for the turning. Try to not get to low either. It will kill weight transfer which you will need to get hooked up. The front arms should never be parallel to the ground. If you can, get the quad at the appropriate height and keep the engine cradle area parallel to flat ground. Like I said in the other thread, pm my your number and call any time you like.

Pm me with your number and we can talk. Also, Wacko2000 has a swaybar for sale. Buy it before its gone.

USPS? Only gonna get slower and cost more! Saturday mail is toast in August.

Issues.....

Don't forget a new folding lock washer for clutch assembly. If you reuse them sometimes the tab snaps off and makes a mess of the clutch.

Kinda got that Hell Raiser appeal. Or like when you see really bad ass titties only to see the butchers scars when she lays back.

Not sure I agree much on the use of grey RTV. The red is good and that's what the 250r guys have proven for years. That Toyota stuff is Awesome! Tony Doukas put me up on that shit and I love it.

By the way, Clymer manual

Word....

Try some magnum cushions. Jeff at fast has them.

I think that the studs should be installed with LOCTITE and torqued before the head install. Like HP reccomended, if they aren't bent, maybe figure out where it's binding and drill the hole out a bit bigger. Just a tad.

But where's the fun in that?

What brand?

And fo sho

Fo sho

Yeah the old jets are a Problem! Hope it isn't toasted. Once you start fiddling with the air flow carachteristics of a motor you need to compensate with fuel. You aren't a mechanic but you seemed to already know what the problem was but carried on any way. That is LAZY! It will cost you money on a mechanic for sure if you don't tighten up.

Hmmm, does it make a clunk when you holeshot it? Either way, if you got it torn apart, might as well. No point in taking it apart again soon.

Umm, yeah at that price there are great aftermarket shocks for sale on here. Just wait on Matt or send it to GT. Matt is pretty fast when he plays catch up. I don't suppose this is gonna turn in to one of those "Fuck That Guy" threads because he has other priorities the second you happened to call and got impatient, is it?

I don't think it would ever be the reason for a lean melt down, but it will make sure you have a properly running motor.

Stock or aftermarket basket?

Yeah, but that way doesn't mean you have a properly torqued head stud and it could be prone to backing out.

Did you use any pressure to blow out any of the passages in the carbs when you cleaned them?