trickedcarbine

If you really want folks to come, they'll need to know you can keep re prepping the track efficiently. The really fast bikes will only run after a fresh groom.

This is the type of stuff I'm talking about. Definitely from the same guy with similar profiles except one is wider squish band. Were the compression ratios similar on both of those domes possum? And what were the differences in performance? I've got a ton of stuff I can post, just wondering if anyone will step up and really break down what is what. Kinda getting sick of having to go else where when I wanna really dive in to a specific topic.

Ok, what about the previous dome was causing the deto, what did you do to that head, why did you do what you did, and what is the ride report? Just curious. Really wanting to learn the combustion situation.

craigs list

Yes, didn't think we were just talkin petals.

Jeff at FAST can get you hooked up! Hell, he even hooked my crutches up with some jeffy bling! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Anybody try hard anodizing the stock clutch hubs?

I have never looked at. 60' times as I'm not running a drag bike. I am running an oval bike with a lot of slip for the turns and hole shot. This thing gets out of the hole well! Plus my bike is on a -2 arm so I'll never get this thing in the famed 1.3x range. I'd bet on a good dial and if I keep the front end sort of down, maybe 1.6 ish.

It was asked in a different thread, so I'll put it here. If my response makes any one angry, I'm sorry and fuck you. I'm bored and got the time to babble. "m671054, on 13 Aug 2014 - 10:21 PM, said: As for the clutch frictions we primarily use Yamaha fzr 1000 fibers. We have played with Barnett kevlar and want to try carbon fiber frictions some time soon. As for the steels, we use different types of materials, treatments & coatings. We have a pretty detailed maintenance & inspection program for the clutch frictions & plates." I have a set of those carbon fiber clutches from Barnett. I got them from STY. He sent them out and told me to kick the shit out of them and so far I like them ALOT! As far as weird things done to my clutch, there is lots of Cryo treated parts. The hub, basket, plates, springs, driveline unit. Mostly for strength and wear resistance. The springs the drag guys wouldn't notice, but for something you ride a ton you will notice. It seems to keep them consistant under longer races. Cryo really helps the plates with warpage as well which is the big thing for me. Prep and maintainence, well I guess in dummy terms that means, fighting the glaze. Nothing worse then seeing guys glaze clutches with nearly all the friction material still in tact and wanna throw them out because they think it's junk. (Tip, the heat/oil work hardens this stuff) some guys simply hit their frictions plates with a scotch Brite or roloc on an air grinder. Kinda works, but I think it leaves an Un even surface in some points which causes some issues. Me personally I use a piece of 400 grit on glass or my machinist granite block and figure 8 the frictions just till I get fresh uniform surface. Tip: don't use your hand as pushing with five fingers creates five points of pressure which leads to Un even surface. I lay a round chunk of steel over the friction and hold it from the side and move it. You need to be hitting everythig with a micrometer before and after. My steels, I've come up with an idea that seems to work really well. I used to do them like the frictions but took time and I don't like making them thinner. So I came up with a chemical solution. Acid etching. Dunk and scotch Brite and they are good as new. Damn near Zero material removal. There's other stuff, but that's the basics of it in my bike.

If they cannot deal with that, they aren't worth dealing with.

This http://www.motosport.com/atv/2006-yamaha-banshee--GYTR-COMPLETE-BIG-BORE-KIT ? Looks like Athena to me.

Gytr has big bore cylinders? Crazy. But get the serval.

Yes think the second is n/a though

No, need the pump

Have them just take them off and leave your intake and stuff off and take the bike. That is bullshit. No offense, but Tristan, that's female right? So these fucking goons just thought they had an easy scam. To be honest, their parts and labor are on that bike at this point and they aren't gonna let it go for nothing. At a minimum, get them to properly price the reeds and come to an agreement on the time they spent with their thumb up their asses trying to jet. If reeds are the only change it should only require having the carbs off one time.

as far as the dome, gimmick as far as I'm concerned. But on cranks, well..... I've seen it work VERY well on a few sleds. Larry @ Doc Fang Engineering has proven some motors to actually benefit the turbo vane while it actually hurt some others.

Pros: Better then stock Cheap if you find used Still replacements available Cons: Out dated Replacement parts are the same price as VForce Not gonna perform as well as any VForce. Their cages have that weird flute that needs to be ground on or your manifold needs modifying if you are using anything other then stock or UPP manifolds.

Have you talked to this dude at all? He seemed to get the turbo ironed out pretty well and was always willing to talk boost. Talked a lot a out turbo yammys from the 80's. Cool guy. Cool project. http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5900&sid=9913ee77588e28f9036f0e18059e7066

To be truthful, he is. That's his problem. He is a one man show and is not very organized. The mans personal cell is the business line and in the 15 minutes I was there talking with him, his phone rang 6 different times and at least 3 came and went. He is fast becoming his own worst enemy and needs to hire a good fab guy or some one who can help and keep a leash on the logistics of what's priority, who's stuff is who's, the shipping, etc. He does good stuff, but is becoming the passion of the chassis world. Some people seem to just get forgot about and it's not that he said fuck you, it's just that much chaos to run out of a lil ol shop. Problem is, even working the hours that dude does, he still probably doesn't make enough to hire a welder and sales guy and afford to run an actual store front and still have enough left over to pay the bills. I'm not biased, I don't hate on Tyson, but that shop needs a bit of help before it starts to topple.

^

^that. Or weed.

With out trenching 4mm, I believe twister's 5mm was claimed go in by a few folks. But trenching, I think guys are stuffing a lot of 14mm cranks in and even a few 16mm cranks.

Few questions for guys who are really doing a lot of the machine work. Last night I must of googled 2,000 images of different domes for different machines and styles of motor. There seems to be common shapes and profiles but it makes me wonder a few things. Toridial or turbo swirling, gimmick right? What is convergant angle and what is the theory behind why guys keep trying it if it's supposed to be shit? On a motor with zero changes other then squish band width, how would it respond to a narrow band vs a wide band? Registered user posted two photos I looked at last night and one just seems to be a smooth rollover from the band to the dome area it self. How does that compare to something with a very pronounced edge that drops in to the dome valley? I'm assuming there are velocity issues with this. Does the shape of the dome valley really play much role? Like a wide shallow dome vs a narrow deep dome area? I've got more and again maybe I'll post photos to get fellas chatting.

Are you guys selling a lot of them yet BHP?

I don't think you're in a position to call someone a coward. You said I have X issues. Then when people asked what was wrong, you avoid confrontation by saying everything worked out fine and there was no issue. But you want to talk to someone about it and that some one asked you to talk to him about it in the open but you want it hush hush and private. Obviously you felt there's something wrong with your set up but now you are back pedaling. ^ That makes you look uncredible (not saying you aren't). Since you can't identify what was wrong and state what had to be done it also makes it look like you really have no clue (not calling you clueless). Just telling you what you said looks like to others. People are just gonna assume you didn't know how to dial it in.