trickedcarbine

Sick. Research the crank seals though. I've done some turbo sled stuff and seen a few good ideas. One of the best was a guy basically lathed up a copper seal and used a rubber grommet with a retainer. We also tried dumping epoxy in the open side of seals and machining a groove for a snap ring retainer that I'm pretty confident might be a pretty good set up. Worked all winter in the UP. Remember, this is about the only turbo build on a banshee motor that is gonna be a sustained rider. Most guys are only ramming them down the drag strip and then that's it and they're having enough problems keeping a turbo set up together. Reliability is gonna take a lot of R&D. Looks like you guys got all the equipment needed to keep dialing it in. That's awesome! Keep the updates coming. This is cool as fuck

Gooooood work to!

Live, learn, keep dealership dick outta yo booty!

15 years ago when the knowledge wasn't so wide spread I would find weird jetting acceptable. But now, there is a 95% chance that no matter what you're doing there is a combo very similar to whatever you are putting together with info on where it should be ballpark as far as jetting. After doing this for 15 years, I have a kinda decent back ground with setting these things up. So if I were doing a stock cylinder with say a MX port and a few bolt ons with pro circuits but it needed a 380 main, I'd know something is fishy.

Yep. + 4 is good. No head work right? Just check the plugs for deto and heat.

Very large investment, however the return is huge. A reliable smooth operatin machine that if maintained, will last a good while

Ya Komisar Motorsports if you don't work out a deal on here.

There are finally companies putting together useful kits that actually work with today's motors. I saw a kit the other day that actually came with an O ring kit in stead of a head gasket, reed gaskets to fit Aftermarket reeds, good coated metallic core base gasket, and K&S seals. I will look for the link for you. Stay out of the dealerships. They only give you enough info to keep you stupid enough to keep coming back. $$$$$$$$! What stuff have you searched so far?

HAha

That's like holding ice cream I front of a fat kid and not letting him take a bite. Do tell?

Here's your sign......

They were kinda doin an inside joke on BB3 there..... At least that's how I interpreted it. Don't think it was a stab at Brad.

^ smart move.

Bump

Bump

^ simple

NGK. Simple. Bulletproof.

Nice! But what shop has a CNC and no bathroom. Unless BHP is the dog so he just has to go potty out side.

^ let's also remember that this is a race fuel motor with compression and timing. So 200*...... That's not so bad to see. Especially when most daily drivers are sitting right at 205-210

Make sure to have plugs with out he threaded on tip. They can cause issues and still come loose if thy are crimped. Also, try new boots before the coil. If it's firing it's 99.999999999999% probably ok. Literally grab the plug wire near the boot and Un screw it counter clockwise. Clip the end of the wire about 1/4" then thread the new boot on. Once it is snug leave it be. It won't torque up crazy tight. Do that on both wires.

How would that work with plastics though?

Adjustable subby eh? That's a good idea for TT.

Probably the first builder to come on here in years to explain a situation, admit their faults, offer insight, and do it in a respectable fashion. My position, not that it matters. It went to IPS to be looked over with a fine tooth comb and their opinion on what they like is different then cams opinion. Fact: Cam has really pushed the benchmark with the level of performance in the last few years. Cam is a step ahead of IPS at all times. So for IPS to say "the head was to tight you need a new one" is a bit weird as it wasn't his motor but ok. It didn't detonate and ran well...... But he was glad to sell a new head and re machine it. Why couldn't the Redline head be turned up a few more thou if some one wanted more clearance? This was allegedly a case of not enough material being removed not to much, so why not just machine the old one. On the trans, there are several threads where guys debate on the Shift Pro detent arm. Lots of guys like the kit as is, others like it with a firm OEM spring. In my opinion, it really depends on how the star is worked over but in the end it's 50/50. If your 6'3" and 245 lbs you will definitely want the firmer spring. If you're a wee 5'7" 160, you will probably prefer the lighter spring if the star isn't to worked. Let's also remember that this same combo was down a handful of both torque and HP after IPS "fixed" everything.

Hmmmm. Well, perhaps if there was enough will, one could cut Rotax PV's in to almost any of the CP cylinders. Someone who knows the Rotax valve well like oh say, Eric at Empire or Lew at Twister......