trickedcarbine

Tried to look but keep getting a arm travel numbers and they all vary on arm. I'll try to see if I can compress mine tomorrow for you

Problem solved .

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Ya. I've spoke with Bryan and he gets ya thinkin with out patting your ass all the way there.

No. For reasons you can find in other threads. Dude, mow some lawns, wash some dishes, pull some weeds. Hell, jerk an old man off. A good Billit is like 55 bucks give or take.

Perhaps. Or eccentric. Junk forks. Garbage gears.

I've got one of these http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm sitting on the bench and an old mini cooler. Just gotta motivate and get some line and --AN fittings. I had that in the my head, just hoped I would have some epiphany and figure out another solution but You're right. Time to bite the bullet and get a cooler on it.

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Driveline!

Ya don't say....

They're getting better every year. It just happened with the snipers, but it took 4 years for people to figure it out. Apparently Mr. Borrink is busy again....... And LED is quite capable but I think he will stick to the hand coned stuff for a bit longer.

Fuck! Did Tyler just write a book?

Like I said, Mattoon or Chariot.

who set it up?

Mattoon or chariot

^ one of those 392's was done by Brandon at wildcard. I don't know who did skeeters, but it's a bad bitch as well. White knuckle?

Problem somewhere

Also, is there any way I can nudge some fellas to give a little detail on cooling? I've got a few ideas, i just don't wanna go butchering my parts if it's nonsense and not gonna make a difference. You can be vague. Just wanna know if my hamster is on the right wheel. Or you can tell me to fuck off. Either way this thread could use a little action. Just trying to get fellas pondering.

Can a gearing change be done to make a 2nd gear launch appropriate while still carrying enough MPH? Maybe primaries? Probably find a balance between a touch of gearing and some more slip and bang it out of the hole harder to make up for a little less mph. I know it's not your set up, just wondered. I know the asphalt is aggressive!

Nightmare!!!!!!!!

Anything fast enough to be on the level of using lighter hardware will have enough power to shear magnesium bolts ASAP. Like stated above maybe not on pegs of a drag bike but regardless I think those should be grade 8+. Maybe magnesium pegs them selves but not the bolts. Some guys just do not realize that the drag stuff can be dangerous when you start fiddle fucking with the chassis and stuff doesn't work out.

Get up in the revs faster yes. More rpm, no. Actually less RPM.

On an old V max which has seals nearly identical to the banshee they would start to actually bow and gat shaped like this " ) " with minimal blow out from the seal edges them selves but above 20 psi they would physically begin working their way out of their little groove. I haven't done a banshee so my knowledge will probably get shot down by N20. But I've been around a handful of boosted toys. You are gonna need to address sealing the crank case, case surfaces. And the head. Typically the metal reinforced base gaskets will hold with a touch of copper RTV. Thought about sending the ones from that Vmax build down to tony at TDR to make out of copper. But so far the cometics held. It'll probably get a few more pounds this season and then go kaboom before I bother changing it though.

Thought windy was on vacation?

The timing is gonna help initially by helping build heat. Should help with spool up. You are on a micro squirt right? So you can blast it with timing to get the bugger spooled up and yank the timing out once the boost comes on and it starts to RPM. Where are you guys at with the head set up? Might wanna use a few cheap stockers on a copper gasket to try a few different chambers then once you see what works give TDR a call for a girdle head set up. His is not Rubber O-rings. It's a gnarly gasket. It'll hold boost for sure.