trickedcarbine

Use alloy bolts. They are a site sponsor and I believe they are on Ebay. Do not use stainless in any suspension pivot bolt. Lots of anti seize is the way to go.

Tim has the company name for a reason. Simply put, his stuff is fucking stellar!

Son of a bitch.... I suppose that's a problem for folks who really hit the rough stuff.

That's the Idea. What most people don't realize is that Arlan not only had a hand in early monoblock development, but he was heavily involved with the CP industries development on the Honda platforms. He has also dominated the Flat Track/TT scene which is why I have been in contact. I don't need it right away. I had spoke with Chris, which is Arlan's right hand when it comes to making pipes. He seemed to really have it together.

^damnit! You beat me to it.

Sounds like a decent set up. The front end on there is nice. As far as mods, keep it simple till you are familiar with it. Stuff like a timing plate and a cool head can wake a bike up. Aside from that, I would pop the clutch cover and inspect everything. These bikes here are not new any more so odds are it could use a few things to help in the reliability department.

The crank on a car is whittled from one big chunk of metal. These things, the big lobes are just all shoved together in a press. So in time the crank sections may begin to seperate. Typically on stock crank motors, their time of demise is when there is a lot of abuse or mods like higher compression and advanced timing. The weld on the pin helps keep the parts from walking.

535 cheetah. Communication with Lew was nil, so I went with the CP stuff.

No rushing this. Doesn't need to even run till this time next season.

I've been trying to do a 10mm motor for way to long and I've finally got my self in to a position where I have just about everything, now it's time to send it off to be set up by a builder. I've procrastinated for to long. I'm thinking of sending it to Arlen at LED. Just curious if anyone has had any engine work done there recently and how it went?

Moar like a lil lake den it is a pond doncha think?

Oh, just up der on da cornah. Why dinnit ya jus says dat?

Haha, fuckin' bikes get angry about that shit.

Sounds pretty fair. Assuming porting would be pretty minimal. You could be around 60, maybe 65 range.

I would try the 34mm PJ's with the Fat Bastards. They will have just a touch more lower end oomph. Give it 4 degrees of timing and get cranking compression to about 145psi with a good set of domes. Is the crank welded? That set up will definitely be a different animal then the 2/1 and bills. If you have all the stuff I'd try a few combos. I'd even try the 34's on the bills pipes. Save those 35's. It's only a matter of time before you may wanna try them on some stuff down the road.

^ how many clicks is Ye Yonder?

Yeah, marine grade should do. Just load the bearing from inside.

X amount of HP = Y amount of fuel burned. You're talkin 75-80+ HP. Doesn't matter if it's a stock cyl or serval. It's gonna need to eat regardless. That said, just go Serval. They are pretty well sorted out now, and you can get the same output of a race gas stock cyl only using pump gas in a serval. The serval can always be taken made toward the drag direction if that's what you decide to do later on as well.

Once again, some one gets bit and builds their dream bike and POOF! They're getting out... Don't stay gone to long mike.

Macomb. Just outside Detroit.

So, he's really gone....

Pretty easy to take more money for new stuff then fuck up international shipping though. Wink wink.

Yeah... Grease the Rod and Ball. Can't have any dry balls on dry rods.

/-\ngled. Clamps will just put stress on the pipe.

I grease mine thoroughly.