trickedcarbine

If you can get new OEM, they are fine if you're only running stockers.

Andy from GRR says he should be out there.

Definitely clean up those transitions on everything after sleeving.

Ya, got a carrier from them about 5 years ago. Also brandished in made in USA on the auction, but it was packed with Ching Chong writing on the packing material. Bearings were definitely Chinese. Pissed me off because it was priced pretty high at the time and I deliberately looked for made in USA in an effort to avoid junk.

Toomeys on it now for the moment. After running it with SLP's and toomeys for a day he put the toomeys up for sale. I'm doing a 10mm cheetah, got lots of parts but stuff keeps happening and I keep putting it on hold. Now I gotta put my 4mm back together to finish the season.

Go on....

Richen it up for the cold. Or...... Rebuild it when it puts holes in the pistons.

The drum definitely could be an issue. I had the cover off to check all the shifting components and they're golden. Guess it's time to split some cases. I'm gonna bite the bullet and fix the broken stud on my motor so I can finish the season on it then pull this apart for my buddy.

No need for it. There are even individual billits. None the less, if you're running rubber intakes they need to be upp and if you're running Billit, it should have genuine mikuni boots on it.

^ New guy gets it! Nice bike man.

You have to totally let the bike fall out of power to get it to shift. It refuses to get in fourth consistently. In fact it is probably worse then just a regular OEM trans.

Billits put the carbs at a suitable angle to clear the clutch arm and they are just fancier lookin. UPP makes rubber boots that will replace stockers. That would be the way to go if you don't have bigger carbs?

IMO, inframes are not Drag pipes. There just so happens to be pipes that work better for more stockish trail bikes and pipes that work better for the higher output motors. But when you take that stockish trail bike, port it and run timing and compression, you can run the bigger inframes and only sacrifice a small fraction of early on power to let the motor really pull mid/top. If done right it will happen so smooth and seamlessly that you do not even notice the few hundred RPM of the curve.

Hmm, having with ours. The only thing it doesn't have is the bearing on the drum and that alone ain't what's causing it.

Yet when you get on the rz forums, they all talk like they are light years ahead of the banshee stuff.....

Ran 3rd place in heat, and 3rd in LCQ for Open studded quad. Im the bike alll the way on the Inside in that little instagram clip posted above. Gotta get my motor back together as I had this motor loaned to me by a buddy for the season tilll he finishes his new chassis. It's strong, but it needs another trans.

Athena caters to the "Dirt Wheels" crowd. For them, it was about creating a highER performance, OEMish qualiity replacement. Just look at the differences in the average " building a cub/serval " vs "athena set up help" threads. Totally different customer.

need one of those in the garage....

Fox definitely makes a float that would work with those arms. Don't bother with any gimmicky axle extendo junk. just get a Gforce axle or find a really nice used one. The 28 pwks are a solid choice. There are intake and filter combos out there to keep things spaced nicely. The FMF's would be more then fine for what you're doing. $75 radiator is pretty common. For now the quality has been up to snuff. The radiator shroud might be a touch tight but it all fits. Alba just put out nerfs with heel guards. Also XFR has a new model. My favorites are the AC pro pegs. Easily found used. Stems and risors can be found used or even from a few of the site sponsors. Porting, hands down the best thing to do to a motor. But it requires a total package to reallly take advantage. Just discuss with a few builders when you are ready. They will go over your intended use, expected output, fuel type, what mods you already have and would need, etc.

Thanks for beating up on your equipment and braving the cold to get some cool footage. Those drones are cool! I have to admit, it was funny seeing that thing hovering just a few feet above your head while you're waiting on the green light. i cant wait to see their footage.

Find a 1.2

Nice! Side note: your trans is a Tyson pro mod right?

Few hp over that 2-1. But way more ridability. The PWKs IMO are a bit less sensitive then their predecessor PJ carbs which means less tuning when changing temp, alt, and weather are a factor.

SLP's on a 75-80 hp 4mm Motor set up with low dune(ish) type port durations just yank hard and do it all the way to just about 9k, but it feels like they sign off a little more abrupt then my rockets do. Where as the only bike I rode with DMC's, it came on smooth and broad and tapered off very slowly once it got up top. Made them feel like they could just over rev to the moon when needed.

16psi import cap should be ok.