Jump to content

trickedcarbine

HQ Premium Member
  • Posts

    15,233
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    165

Everything posted by trickedcarbine

  1. Stop riding it and friggin change the main before you hurt it. Riding with the choke ain't doing ya any good.
  2. For the most part the regular inframe stuff will be the same diameter. The problem is that they are all routed a bit differently. Not every head pipe winds up in the same location so you can't just interchange whatever brands you please. It can be done, But it'll involve some light fab work. Why not just get new silencers to go with your head pipes?
  3. I'm assuming you meant 58 pilot. 148 main. And needle on 6th position, are you talking all the way at the top or bottom. Pretty sure there is only 5 clips on keihin needles. None the less, dry and grey is lean. Give it more main, you should have more then enough pilot with a 58 in it.
  4. I personally feel porting should be part of a total rebuild. Reason being, if you go through with porting and head work, that poor crank probably wouldn't last long. Then next season all the work you just did needs a rebuild when the crank goes bang. If you are ok with splitting the cases and at least pulling the stock crank and sending it with your jugs to be trued and welded then go for it. But to just port and toss a fresh top end on, you're asking for trouble.
  5. Easiest way, toss a jug and piston back on one side. With a caliper, run the rod of the caliper touching the piston on left or right side of the bore over the wrist pin all the way down to bottom dead center. You'll know you're there as the measurement on the caliper will begin to reverse as you pass BDC. Now. Zero the caliper out with it in the same location. Rotate the crank so the piston goes up to TDC. The highest measurement will be the amount of stroke. 54mm is stock stroke, 58mm is 4mm. If you don't have a caliper, you can just use a machinists straight edge on the piston. And take measurement off it from the top deck of the cylinder. Just roll it all the way over and make note of the highest and lowest measurements and find the difference. If you don't at least have a straight edge it's not something you should be doing. Pick one up at a tool store for cheap. If you get 58mm, take note if there was a shim plate between two gaskets at the base of the jugs, or if the head has work. Also take note of all the markings on the side of the Rod. CK158 would be a 115 rod and you need a piston with a different pin height to work with it.
  6. 1k ain't gonna take you far. I'd say if the motor is sound, leave it together and start with bolt ons. Then when it's time for a rebuild, you can just port it then and already have the supporting mods that make it really shine.
  7. I'd usually start by just taking the cover off and actually look in side. Just a thought.
  8. Think in terms of parts that get dirtiest. Swing arm, carrier for sure would probably be better off black. Maybe hubs and a arms in black. And the frame in a color. The steering stem bearing needs to come out for powder. You need to make or buy a tool to do so though. The hub seals and bearings are easy to get out. Just pop the seal and use a bunch to drive the bearings out if you do t have a press. Use a new pivot kit on the swinger before re assembly.
  9. Plasti dip is today's duct tape. Lol You'll get it sorted out, you can even buff that white plastic to look like new. Maybe some polish on the C series wheels and pipes. Plus if those wheels were polished, you could sell them much faster if they were something you weren't really diggin' on.
  10. Definitely, as long as you aren't afraid to do a little slicing and welding.
  11. Pistons melted? I would seriously consider at least splitting the cases and at least inspect the crank and bearings. Do you know what stroke it is?
  12. In 10 years of rebuilding these things, I've never had to use a mallet to seat a flywheel. Just lap it, clean it, tap the key in, and slide the flywheel on. If it doesn't just seat I pull it back and try again.
  13. Oh yeah, any Deere from the big box stores is cheaply made junk. It's not unheard of to see the same tractor stickered and badged in 3/4 different companies. As long as people want a cheap option, it's only gonna get worse.
  14. I dig the white powder.
  15. I personally think it's great that BansheeHQ has made it all the way in to the native tribes over seas. Can't understand a flipping thing he says, but as long as he's mounting a banshee instead of cattle, I can live with it. I just picture a half naked native with lots of face paint and nothing more then some dried leaves covering his Johnson, screaming across the land WFO!
  16. Do they read as nice as a faro?
  17. I've bought from Ryan. He flips quite a bit of banshee stuff. Pretty good fella.
  18. That third one ain't shabby. Red pipes are the only visible eyesore, but you're chucking them anyway. Just be patient. I bet there will be a bunch in a month or so.
  19. No really I'm super ebony..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I'm a black stoner, and seem to do ok with banshees.
  21. If those measurements are legit, you have issues in your future.
  22. ^ that is usually a good start
×
×
  • Create New...