trickedcarbine

Gonna go with the first layou you posted. It keeps the base gasket as minimal as possible, perfect for keeping ports lower.

Arlan at LED is porting it and building pipes. Race gas set up.

It'll be 72 mm with an 18mm pin.Gonna order the twister crank by tomorrow I hope.

421 cub cyl that dated back to about 07-08 I believe.

Anybody have any thoughts on the rods for 10mm crank for a CP Serval? I know there are plenty of piston options for the 115mm rods, just curious if the 120 rod is a better option and if anyone knows what the piston options would be.

Is it cheaper to add an iron sleeve vs. Nikasil? Agreed on the Athena port timings, they are a bit high for the average trail guy looking to upgrade. Which happens to be another problem because that is the demographic of people they try to cater to. I was gonna assemble a set of Athena's for a guy and the nikasil appeared to be flaking away from the top edges of the exhaust and transfer ports so I stopped and let the customer know. They are supposedly at US Chrome getting re done.

Interesting. It's polished so well it's hard to tell if it's Billit or cast.

If the brass washer isn't on when you put the main in, it will be a jiggle fest.

Off with his head!

Correct. That way you are checking the actual pressure of your set up.

Might be time to find someone on here who is local to come and show you the simple how to's. There are a lot of fellas that are new to this and as simple as a procedure may seem, if you miss the little details you are just chasing your tail. When guys reccomend a quick check/test/procedure make sure to do a little research just to make sure you are doing it right.

When checking springs, you need to figure out their installed height on your current set up. Then set your spring tester up for the same distance.

Hehehe. Dude, your sprockets are what change the top end speed. Horsepower/torque just dictate how fast you get to that top speed. If you wanna do domes and be on pump and have stock cylinders 21-22 CC domes are what you want. Use Premium, never Regular.

Octane rating of a fuel is it's resistance light/burn/detonate, whichever school of terminology you wanna use. Adding compression to a motor makes it "explode harder". The issue is you need to remember that Compression can actually force lower octane fuel to light before the spark plug lights it. That is detonation. So if a motor has a substantial amount of compression and you mix regular 87 octane gas in it, the motor will pretty much continue to light it self under load and potentially break pistons or a crank. But if you have a low compression motor and way to high of octane fuel in it, the fuel will be hesitant to light. It will burn slower (think of lighting kerosene vs gas)and incompletely. Don't let your friends tell you adding high octane fuel makes performance.....

It's been for sale for a long time.

Nice work Ken...

Amazing what happens when someone can't just put it on auto pilot.

Ok, so you can get a truck and all your donee parts for 10K, what about all the little nickel and dime items. Mounts, custom oil pans, cross members, hardware, fuel system upgrades, lines, etc? Those details will make or break a build's quality, reliability, and looks if you cheap out so add another 3k or you're just not thinking realistically. Have you done an engine swap in the past? And also, what is your time worth. Will you be able to afford not having that truck when it finally goes under the knife?

Yamabond/ThreeBond isn't a bad idea. Especially if the intake surfaces aren't super crisp. Crossovers are debatable. But there are other factors to consider first if you're doing Billit intakes. Quality boots & Carb angle are the two main factors. I honestly am starting to like the individual manifolds with no crossover. Pretty clean. The UPP stuff is great as well.

For now I'd say go CPI, they will give you room to improve your current set up and be ok on a 421 later. You will see a pretty substantial gain without sacrificing much bottom end feel. Start doing work to the motor and they only get better. The snipers IMO would be great on a 421 I fact better then the CPI, but I don't think you currently have enough motor as is to make them shine.

Verify fuel flow from petcock, if it's no bueno you'll need to take it apart and freshen it up. Clean carbs properly and blow all jet passages with clean dry compressed air. Check needle & seat action as well as float height.

Another thought. Read what temperatures your oil is designed to work in. I am a huge fan of the Castor stuff like Maxima Castor 929 but most of it will seperate at lower temps. That's not opinion, it's fact based on cylinder wall condition. I have switched to the Blendzall and couldn't be happier.

Engine coatings and treatments each have their own purpose. Some are for reducing friction/drag, some are to combat heat, some are to improve the surface of a part for strength and durability. The performance gains are marginal however I've noticed a few times they have saved an abused motor. Here's a few different treatment and coating options I've tested. http://www.machmodified.com https://www.line2linecoatings.com http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-performance/bs-internal-engine-coatings.html

Everybody has their opinion on engine coatings, but they help a ton in the cold actually.

^ 100%