trickedcarbine

Guess you better run that thing around the track with that drag seat pan on there. Ya know, for a comfort and durability test.

Stockers are fine, but PWK's are superior. They are just so much more crisp. The flat slide helps with response as well.

Maybe top end? 80 psi? Hehe...

http://www.line2linecoatings.com/

Any experience with piston coatings? I've done quite a few motors with parts coated from Line 2 Line and after break in, I'm seeing just over .0020. I've gone one like that with almost 5 years on it. I'll find a link on it. Pretty cool stuff. It's anti friction, and is meant to wear in so the piston takes a perfect shape to the bore.

On the contrary, I've always had guys setting up motors tighter with forged Pistons.

Switch to 28mm PWK's and some SLP's, DMC, or Pro Circuits. Might be worth getting some different domes cut.

+4 degrees is totally safe if you are using fresh premium.

Also, make sure the head is able to handle the additional bore size as well. If it were me, it would be time for new cylinders.

Those clearances out of an OEM style manual? If so, those clearances will change if forged pistons like Weisco are used. Leave that to the machinist to determine. If he is asking you what clearances should be, find a different machinist with the proper experience. The clearances will be figured by subtracting the piston dimension from the bore dimension. Always check it assembled with feeler gauges.

Have you seen how many Banshees are out in the desert with big LED bars on them like that?

I say it all the time. On machines with individual cylinders, it is SUPER IMPORTANT that you first just drop the cylinders on to the motor without tightening them. Step torque the head to the cylinders, then torque the jugs evenly.

Cheap out now, regret it later.... Are you that pressed for $225-300 bucks? If it's apart, try and hold out and do a pro mod not an over ride. If it's still together, just run it till the next time it needs to come apart.

What kind of compression or domes do you have? +4 is a pretty good proven amount of timing in stockish motors. Keep an eye on it and make sure it gets fresh fuel.

With the amount of detonation that thing was forced to live through, you should be doing a full tear down to atleast check and inspect that crank. Your cheetah, is it an actual Cheetah with powervalves, or just a Cheetah Cub? And it's 4 mil crank in 68mm bore? If so, 24cc domes would make it pretty happy on pump fuel.

All of your fears about detonation issues are real... Sorry but octane booster isn't gonna fix anything. Just run the proper fuel a motor needs and avoid these costly mistakes. Tear it down and get it rebuilt and order a different set of domes if you wanna stay on pump fuel.

No on any ModQuad parts. Plugs gapped evenly? Plug boots are ok? Both cylinders are in good shape and compression testing evenly? No slight coolant leak?

That gauge with a hose and proper fitting would be fine.

Because to get an a correct reading it needs to be sealed and at the depth of the spark plug. That thing is iffy at best when sealing and does not protrude in to the cylinder like a plug would.

Which side is off, stator or clutch side? Carbs synced? No air leaks?

^ am I the only one who's willing to smash them both?!

This^

Did you even look in the For Sale Section?

See, someone does a search and still gets shit for it... The nuts should be spot welded from the factory in effort to keep them from backing out. If they have been apart, just give them red Loctite

The only time I've heard of them ran on a Banshee, the fella was not to stoked. The cost was way high, they required different needles, and getting PSI to send them was a major headache as he just kept telling the guy to try different shit. Look in to the Lectrons or even the APT Smart Carb if you wanna do something different.