trickedcarbine

What oil? Are you sure the O ring the clutch cover slide over is not letting coolant past?

Not a full time mechanic, just a side gig. I just hated how many people said these things are impossible to get to run right. So I did it for friends, their friends, etc. and it keeps me busy. Just like seeing how happy people get when you make their machine run perfect. We do have the room to run it right here, so that is an advantage. Its nice to be able to dial a bike in in an afternoon.

Tommy? Like a Chinese knock off of Toomey?

If it's Leonard or Loren I'd ask either of them questions.

I'd imagine durable has the process down and it's just the photo.

He builds his own motors. No way you can tell/teach him anything. He's been running those PJ's since 1995 and finally mastered the idle with needle adjustment.

I think it was Brad Tyson's shop I saw a few cut on a rotary table. Never messed with the 2:36 gears but I've had a set of 2:68's I had to lap the water pump gear to clear. I'm pretty sure they were Liberty Gears.

Your homework is to strip a PJ carb and clean it all up and bag the parts up. Take all the old magazines out of the bathroom and replace them with said clean carb. That carb is now your "reading material" every time you are on the John. I know you are determined, but for some reason you are looking past the proper way of doing things in effort to just keep trying different stuff with hopes that you will get some magic tune up. These things are so simple if you can follow the simple jetting procedures the folks at Sudco, Keihin, Mikuni, etc.... You literally have a few people explaining to you how it works, but refuse to accept that maybe you are doing it wrong... Yes, I know you build your own stuff. You reiterated it in your last few posts, but it means nothing if you can't tune it to run to its potential. If you build the baddest monster in the dunes, nobody will ever know if you can't make it run right. You really think that it's a good idea to have the bike blubbery rich on bottom, then go full lean on the needle when you wack the throttle, then go back to rich/safe on the main? Let me ask you this, how's the bike launch and pull?

^ haha

There is a whole thread here that has several combos with jetting specs here.

Ah, problems of being a dad that cares.

I don't wanna scare you, but running a 2stroke out of gas can be the same as leaning one out. So throw a compression gauge on it to make sure that is ok. As far as the lower end, that's a catastrophe! With what you said it's doing, just split the bottom end. Check the top end first to see if components are salvageable, then tear it down.

Yes, Correct stem is the most ideal way.

That would be so friggin rich up top and over heat a motor lean on the pilot.

From an actual paint and body guy, I'll give that a whirl.

Yes^ gauge pin... Why the fuck could I not recall that. Couldn't think of what to call it other then a micro bore gauge. Teuche'

True

All this talk about Elka.... If someone is on a budget, you certainly can't go wrong with Works shocks. They have proven them selves for many years. Plus there are tons of used works shocks out there in great condition.

I think PJ1 had rattle can enamel that was pretty close. They used to do all the factory colors. Not sure if they still do.

Yahtzee!

PM Locogato about the A1.

Wow, that's a little abrasive.

There are micro bore gauges that machinists use, however it would be quite the chunk of change to spend to measure some dump tubes. Easiest way would be to find a precision drill set that machinists use and flip to the rack that is numbered, not lettered. If all you can get is lettered, there are charts out there that show what size each letter bit is. Most of these things are drilled in the .115-.130 range. Just start dropping them in till they will no longer fit.

Yes, lower jets in warm temps and raise them in cold temps. Cold winter air is far more dense then hot summer air. Denser cold air charge means there will be more Oxygen molecules packed tighter and there fore you jet up in the winter to give it more fuel to compensate for additional air. There are three jets in most typical carbs. Pilot, needle, and main. Typically the pilot if it is dialed in only needs to be bumped up a size of two in cold weather. The needle typically only needs to be moved one notch. Mains can be 2/3 sizes if you get weather that is freezing temps.