trickedcarbine

The search on here sucks. Even if you filter it, it's still lack luster at best. When you wanna search, just use Google. Type your key word and follow it with bansheehq. Like this "Serval Bansheehq".

PM Sleeper06

An aluminum plenum would be tits.

I have sourced it a few ways over the years. There are multiple companies that sell the stuff. Just google High Temp Thermal Sleeve. Make sure to look for the highest temp Rating you can find. Get pics tonight or tomorrow.

Can you say photo shopped Dyno Sheet....

First to have a problem that I've heard of. I've mounted a set and they were certainly tight, but no where near what the double O ring Shearers were like.

What's the motor combo? And what chassis mods? There's fellas here who have ran countless combinations, and I'm sure someone will know the sweet spot.

I use thermal sleeve. It fits tight to the exhaust so it doesn't take up room like the big Cascade Space Pillows. http://www.thermalvelocity.co.uk/Line-and-Hose-Protection/Extreme-Heat-Sleeve/p-114-484/ Note: Plenty of US distributors.

It's been bumped or tossed in a box carelessly. A little light filing to the channel where the divot pressed material inward should get it moving nice and smooth. If you paid a mint for a mint trans, send it back.

You're just against the o ring. Lube it and use some elbow grease.

It takes more then a leaky exhaust to make these things run the way you're describing. Do a compression test to verify there is life left in the motor, then start troubleshooting.

Carbs cleaned? How do the jets in the melted side look?

Just had my buddy shoot me a photo of his XFR's. Those will need them.

Nope, not Needed for my AC Pro Peg with metal heel guards.

Gimme like a half hour and I'll run out to the trailer where I got them and my new frame stashed. Talking AC Pro Peg, correct?

Little tube between the carbs is cracked. Or check the seal on the plunger.

Fast billit

Dialectric grease and contact cleaner.

Different manifolds can get the bowl up off the clutch arm. You can loosen the clamp on the intake side of the carb and rotate it in a bit to access the bottom of the carb. Some kits designed for the banshee may have the access nut removed and the hole is just a welded plug so the whole bowl needs to come off. If there is a nut on the bottom, you can use that as a way to change the main, but not the pilot. The Bowl will need to be removed to do the pilot. It's just less trouble to pull the carb off to do all that.

Possible. You can smell that in exhaust.

It's awesome that you are able to ride on the street there.

The power stop aren't to shabby. Ran them on many of my trucks. Certainly no where near as nice as the Willwood or Baer, however they get the job done at a decent price. I have them on my 07 Sierra Classic 1500. It has 1,500 lbs of gear in the bed every day since I've bought it and the I pull trailers quite often. Those rotors get a hard life for being on a 1500, but they seem to have minimal wear and I've not yet warped a set.

Wow, pretty sweet.

Something is fucky. With the jets you say are in it and the mods you have listed, there should be some kind of color on those plugs. Before you even chop, you should see color around the base of the plug ring. If it's lean it'll get a dry, roasted greyish color, but yours look as though they are being washed clean in the photos.

The pilot and air screw really don't affect the reading you get on a plug chop. What is your main at?